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Discussion Starter #1
Im finishing up a restoration of a 68 RS/SS and have a small glitch. As soon as I start the car, the headlight doors open. If I pull the headlight switch, the headlights go on as normal, and high beam switch works fine too. If I turn off the headlights via the switch, the doors stay open until the vacuum is gone (which is pretty much forever since its all new and no leaks). To close them I pull a vacuum line off the headlight switch.

Reversing the vacuum lines off the headlight switch didnt help (according to the guy helping me).

I double and triple checked the vacuum hose routing according to the assembly manual, and Im 99-100% sure Im correct. Any ideas?

The other thing is the drivers side headlight is really dim, but Im guessing thats just a ground somewhere.:eek:

Thanks!
Bob
 

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Vacuum switch hoses are in wrong order, or they are in correct order but the feeds on the actuators are reversed, or hoses are all in right place but the service over-ride switch on the tank is in the OPEN position.

Stem Valve:Original 1968 valve was coded UNLIKE a traffic light with Green top Red bottom. Reproduction valves all use the 1969 setup which is like a traffic light Red top Green bottom. But the stem is coded on each port R, Y, G. Recheck yours.

Actuators:I think Green is rear red is front of the actuators.

Service Switch/Stem valve:Slide it to NORMAL and the headlight then opens and closes the valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the great response! With all that in mind I just went out and checked out my hoses.
They were on the valve OK according to what is embossed. I switched the red and green just for kicks but its still not right. Over ride switch is in "Normal" position. I even switched the hoses on the headlight switch as well.

Maybe Ill just start over and pull them all off and redo it.... Ugh.
 

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No you covered the normal problem spots - the last problem area is the headlight switch rubber slider. The pin is the weak link and once the slider channel losses its grease the metal pin either breaks off or carves through the rubber block leaving it in its location.

You can test by pulling both hoses off the light switch bib and while under vacuum kiss the ends together. Doors should operate open, break the connection doors should operate other direction to close.

If that test works then the headlight switch needs replacing or rebuilding. I rebuilt my original a few times before grinding down thumb tacks to make new pins got old. And you only get so many successful bending of the tabs that hold the slider in the bib assembly at the bottom of the switch. Buy a quality replacement with porcelain dimmer IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I suspected the headlight switch at first as well, so today I drove down to ground up restoration and got a new one. That doesnt seem to be it :) Mechanically everything is working , I know it will be a matter of figuring out the tubing... Till then Ill pull my hair out
 

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Where are you located?
 

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Are the vacuum lines going to the actuators correct? Try switching one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Brian. I see youre not far from me.. Im in Cheshire.
Larry, isnt that the same as switching it on the valve up top? I can give it a shot though...
 

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Cool if need be I can run up I-84 and trouble shoot.

Switching the canisters will reverse the vacuum flow regardless of what the traffic light valve says.
 
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