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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Went out today and bought some HID halogen headlights. I know there not rael HID but they are whiter and a little brighter that my halogens I had in there before. So I bought (2) 30 amp relays and the sockets for them. (2) 30 amp fuse holders with 20 amp fuses. Ran my main power wire on the relay to the power distribution block. Ground to the firewall and made 2 cuts into the wire harness. Tan wire for low beams and Green wire for high beams. tied them into the correct terminals and I was done! Voltage at the terminal block is 11.9v with the car off. 11.8v at the light socket.... before I had almost a 2V difference. I started the car and turned the light on. My dash lights are now much brighter and they don't go dim from switching to parking lights to driving lights.

I would recommend this conversion to everyone. It works very well and I can see how it is is easier on the fuse box also:beers:
 

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Good work!
I think I'm gonna put that on my project list, too. I need to mount a new washer pump up by the washer bottle horn relay anyway, so as long as the soldering iron is out....may as well.
 

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Thanks for the update.
This project is on my list.
I have some nice relays to wire up. I also want to install some kind of nice relay cluster. With all the relays under the hood, I'm running out of places 2 for the fans, 2 for the lights, one for the kill switch and one for the NSS. If I end up with EFI, I'm going to have one for the fuel pump too....
Sorry to hijack, but does anyone have any ideas? Maybe a late model underhood box?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good work!
I think I'm gonna put that on my project list, too. I need to mount a new washer pump up by the washer bottle horn relay anyway, so as long as the soldering iron is out....may as well.
Soldered everything. The whole project took around 2 hours. I looks nice and neat .It's worth it Jim. I also bought some new 5W dash bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the update.
This project is on my list.
I have some nice relays to wire up. I also want to install some kind of nice relay cluster. With all the relays under the hood, I'm running out of places 2 for the fans, 2 for the lights, one for the kill switch and one for the NSS. If I end up with EFI, I'm going to have one for the fuel pump too....
Sorry to hijack, but does anyone have any ideas? Maybe a late model underhood box?

How'd you setup a relay for your kill switch? Is your batt in the trunk?
 

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I plan to run two kill switches. My batt is not in the trunk. I plan to run 1 switch through the NSS the other to an ignition wire I have a couple of ideas but have not figured anything out yet.
 

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I realize this is an old thread, but I just installed relays for my headlights and the high beams are extremely bright, like I expected, but the low beams are barely lit at all.

I spliced the tan (low) and light green (high) wires just behind the rad support, spliced with white relay input wires. Installed both relays with power (fusible links) from the horn relay buss bar, grounded to rad support. Wired output (yellow) to same tan/green wires to headlights. crimped, soldered, and wrapped all connections.

With the low beams on, I checked voltage at the low beam socket, car running, 11.8v, high beam socket, 5v. Switch to high beams, both sockets show 11.8v. Is this normal? The buss bar shows 11.8v all the time to power is there. Is there a bad ground somewhere? I cleaned the rad support ground to bare metal, thinking it wasn't grounded well. But why do the high beams work great but not the low beams? Are there other connections I'm missing???

Thanks,
 

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Do yourself a favor and ditch the halogen lights which draw a ton of current and invest it a set of true H.I.D. headlights. They draw much much less current than a standard halogen light and they produce 10times the light output. I use them in my 67 and I will NEVER drive a car without them.
 

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I bought my HID kit from XenonDepot.com I paid around $450, but it's well worth it. The light output you gain from a true H.I.D. kit is great and the bulbs only draw 35watts a piece compared to a standard 9004 which draws 55w and some "performance" bulbs can draw 110watts and still not give you the light output. They make kits now that offer a 55watt upgrade and produce even more light. They usually cost around $150-$200 more, but worth every penny, IMO.
http://www.kbcarstuff.com/?referer=xd
 

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Do not get the sealed beam style kits. Do what I did. Get yourself a HIGH QUALITY 7" round headlight that can use H4 bulbs. Then get an H4 kit. That way, if a bulb ever goes out, you don't have to buy a whole new light and case, you can just buy the bulb. One thing, with HID's, you MUST have Historic tags or some tag that exempts you from inspections. HID's are only street legal for OEM installations because the factory ones are self leveling. When the car is started and the lights are turned, you can physically watch them bounce around to find level. That way they are not pointing up and into someones eyes. If you have Historic tags, you are exempt from the standard laws that govern street violations like window tint, loud exhaust and lifted trucks. Historic tagged vehicles are not governed by those guidelines so you can install WHATEVER you want on the car. Window tint can be as dark as you want it. That is not necessarily the smart thing for night driving, but it does help the A/C work better.
 

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One last thing. Don't think that the higher the number, the brighter the bulb when it comes to HID. The BEST kit to buy for the brightest output is a 4300K kit. They make them all the way up to 10000K, but they are not the brightest. The higher you go, the more purple they get. They also make Bi-Xenon kit for some part numbers. That lets you keep your low and high beam, but the bulbs are so bright you really don't need a high beam.
 

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Do not go for the cheap kits. You definately get what you pay for when it comes to HID's.
 
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