There are 2 ways to do it. One way is to butcher the job and replace the studs. It has been done in the past but I do not recomend that route. The other way is to unbolt the 2 bottom fender bolts and most of the inner to outer fender bolts around the wheel well area and perhaps even loosten a few of the other bolts in the vacinity and pull the fender out at the bottom. You need to put a wood block in the opening to hold it away from the body and then get access to the heater core box fasteners. Keep the band-aids handy. What a PITA!
Wait a minute, If you’re just replacing the heater core and not the fan, then you don’t have to mess with the fender. I just replaced mine last week. Just unbolt the five nuts on the engine side of the firewall, then disconnect the three heater control cables and the plastic vents attached to the heater box, and push (or hammer depending on stubbornness) on the studs protruding from the engine side of firewall. The studs are attached to the heater box. The whole heater box should come right out. PS. It really helps to take out the clove box for better access. Good luck
just take out the inner fender, and the whole thing opens right up. it is a lot easier- and faster- in the long run to just remove the whole inner fender. no squeezing your hand in between sharp pieces of metal to take off a few nuts, and just easier to get at. i also agree that it would be a great time to look at replacing the fan, and make sure to clean the box and firewall off and use a good sealer- don't want those pesky fumes in the passenger compartment.
1971 Nova(looks like 69 camaro from underneath!)
355sb, vortec heads, HOT cam,T-10 tranny, 3.70 gears 16X8" IROC wheels. 12" Corvette brakes on the way.
see pics here http://community.webshots.com/user/novaderrik
Marktat's right, his way is better if you have a nice paint job on your car. A little more work, but if you go to losen your wheel well bolt's you might see paint chipping of as you make the first intial turn.
Please don't think I'm being controversial, & respect to every one thats posted, but theres no way I'd remove the wing, inner or outer just to remove the heater core. marktat in my opion is totaly correct. I've had to remove my core twice & never have I removed the inner or outer wing especially when I remember the trouble I had getting it lined up in the first place & the risk of scratching. And again in my opinion if the blower motor is working ok it seems a lot of extra work just to get to a blower thats working ok to begin with.
If you can get the right spot a small hole in the inner fender will let you get a socket in for that one PITA of a bolt. The other two blower case bolts can be reached from the engine compartment if you don't have big hands. I found a small flat rubber plug laying around from an old ceramics project gone bad that fit the 1/2" hole in the inner fender perfectly.
If you force that heater core through the firewall holes without moving the blower case to the side, you risk damaging your new heater core. The previous owner replaced mine that way and I wound up replacing it again just a year later - you could see how it was stressed at the fins.
ps. If you need to know the exact spot I could email a pic for you if you want.
[This message has been edited by Eric68 (edited 09-04-2002).]
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