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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 68 327 all new, all the wiring is new painless the whole car has been off the frame redone. Engine new rebuild, new MSD dist. I can get 12 volts to the distributor and when cranking 9.7 to 10.2 volts but I can't get spark. I have changed distributors and same thing. This is not a stock car 10.5 -1 holley 750, HEi, hedders March system on the front with classic air and power steering. Everything is brand new and I don't know what to do next.I have tried everything I know and thats not sayin alot but anyone have any ideas. I have read the other post on this subject and nothing in those post gets me fire.
 

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Yes I do and when I engage the starter the voltage drops to 9 or 10 volts. The techs at MSD said I need 8 when cranking to get fire so I seem to be good there.Thanks for the fast reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
would I still get the right voltage to the disribuor if the switch was bad? the motor cranks over fine. and when cranking I still get up to 10.5 volts.
 

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Tom,

Where are you checking voltage while you are turning the key to "start"?

Where is your BATT terminal on the HEI hooked up?

What's your initial timing set at?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Checking volts at the pink ignition wire at the dist. The Batt terminal is hooked up on the cap next to the Tach hook up. Timing has been set at 0 and up to +4. Even if I had the dist 180 out would it still give a spark? I know it would'nt run but should'nt itstill throw a spark?
 

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I can't get mine to start with less than 12 degrees of advance (initial timing at 12 BTDC).

How did you check for spark? Did you pull a plug out, connect the plug wire to it, then ground the plug body to the frame?
 

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ok I will try that. I did the plug against the block and I have a spark test tool if the wife is'nt around to turn the key for me. Plug wire to it and clamp it to a ground and set the gap.
 

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The little three wire pigtail is hooked up from the distributor to the cap, right?

If you've got power on the BATT wire when the key is turned to "start" (not just "run") then it should have fire.

The only other things would be simple stuff:
Pigtail not plugged in from distributor.
Ground terminal/bracket not installed in coil assembly.
Rotor not installed (happened to me before).
Rotor button not installed under coil.

I'll usually wrap a piece of wire around the threads of the plug I pulled out and then wrap the other end around something metal on the frame or block in a place so I can see it through the gap between the hood and cowl. Then I turn the lights out.

I'll tell you that even with fire you probably won't be able to get it to start without at least 12 degrees of initial advance.
 
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