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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a Skip White HEI to put on my 250. Removed the resistance wire from the firewall plug out, ran a new 12 GA wire from the same plug at the firewall to the new HEI, pigtailed off that to the yellow wire going to the alternator (just as it was stock), found TDC, set distributor so #1 was pointed at the arm, and tried to fire it up.

Nada. Doesn't fire.

I know I have fuel. Tomorrow I'll hook up my timing light and test the wires for spark. I know I have power to the HEI (tested at 12V). Just not firing.

The main question I have, however, is should the tach connection on the HEI be connected to a ground or disconnected? I don't have a tach to connect it to. I'd think that I should leave it alone but I'm not sure.

It might be just a matter of spinning the distributor but I was working alone.

Any other thoughts?

Does the yellow wire to the starter need to have the resistance wire or can I just run it without the resistance wire? It was inline originally but I was under the impression that when it was cold it'd supply 12V anyway and I wouldn't think the starter would care if it stayed there.
 

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Originally you had a resistor wire from the fuseblock to the + side of the coil. Also you have a yellow wire that runs from the + side of the coil to the small post on the left side of the solenoid. You also had a brown wire going to the - side of the coil. You replaced the resistor wire with a new wire ran to the battery slot on the HEI. You can do away with the yellow wire now as it is not needed anymore. The purpose of the yellow wire was to get 12+ volts to the coil when cranking. Once started the resistor wire supplied the power to the coil at 8-9 volts so not to burn up the points. Make sure your red wire is going the battery on the HEI. Test same wire with ignition switch on. Make sure your ground is hooked up it is a piece of metal under the cap held on by one of the 4 screws that holds the coil in the cap. Unplug the coil wire and hold it about 1/2" away from something metal. Have someone turn the switch on and off a few times while you check for spark.
 

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Thanks! I got rid of the yellow wire, reset TDC, reinstalled the distributor, and fired it up. set the timing to about 4 degrees. Runs great now! Idle is smooth, no hesitation under load, no more misfires.

...every time I touch this car it seems to get better. It's night and day from the way it drove when I bought it a year and a half ago.
 

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Cool! TACH does not get hooked up, unless you have an aftermarket tachometer.
Keep the yellow wire in the harness, but tied back at the dist end,
as the next ign switch you buy may not have START ign power.
Then you will need the yellow wire back in service.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice and help, guys.

I did keep the yellow wire: I disconnected both ends (well I cut one but I digress), folded it back and wrapped it up with black electrical tape so it's not seen now. Neither end is connected so it's just there in case I need it.

I took it for a drive. Nice and smooth!

Stopped at a buddy's house on my drive. He's an even bigger gear head than anyone else I know. He's working on his 3rd iteration of his Ferrari 250 kit car (Fauxarri as I like to call it). Based on a 70's Datsun with a fiberglass body. The entire suspension minus the springs and struts were hand made by him. All nice billet one-off stuff. Hand-made interior designed to look like a factory 250. He's in the process of putting in a motor from a 370Z as a nod to Datsun. Used to have some datsun inline 6 in there. It's a work of art. 350hp, 2,500 lbs work of art, that is.

Anyway the man knows cars.

From his suggestions I disconnected the vac advance and plugged the port on the carb. Reset timing from 4 degrees advance to 8 degrees and reset the idle.

The engine is smoother than ever before.

All that aside (and I noticed this before I increased timing, etc), it seems to be sucking down a lot more gas. I think it has to do with my larger fuel line and/or new fuel pump (I tried to muscle the old fuel line out of the way of the new dist. and kinda, sorta, maybe messed up the connection on the old pump... probably was OK but for $20 I just replaced it rather than risk a fuel fire).

I know I can now increase the gap a bit on the spark plugs. Do you think this would help burn more of the fuel going into the combustion chamber? I know I'll probably have to back the timing back down a bit but that's OK.

I just don't want to smell like gas every time I drive it. I can tell I'm dumping more fuel. Just not enough to flood the engine. It's just a bit too much.

Maybe adjust the float down some? Other options? I'm not a carb guy but I did rebuild this one and it was working great until this.

I think leaning it out some will give me a few more ponies too...
 
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