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Discussion Starter #1
I have searched throught the archives on this topic a few times and found some answers but not all. I have a fresh 327 in place of the original straight 6. I now have an HEI unit in place. I know that I need to plug into the battery + terminal on the dist. I have a pink wire that is coming from the ignition block that was bound with the old coil wires. Would this be the power I need? There is also a back and yellow wire spliced together into one clip. Would that be the resistance wire? How does the power get to the dist then without a direct link? Is there aground for the dist.? This may be a stupid question but it's my first wiring job. My '85 is computer controlled so I have no reference. thanks for any advice!
 

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pink would be the power from the ignition switch. runs to + terminal. the married two go to the - terminal. Engine block is the ground so to speak if one is needed.
 

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To confirm your suspicion, use a test light. With the ignition turned on, the resistance wire (if present) will cause the test light to glow more dimly than a wire connected to a 12V source. If you find one wire that is a bit lower in intensity, then crank the motor and see if the light goes to full brightness (relative to the load the starter puts on the system). This will confirm the presence or absence of a resistance wire.

68's had resistance wires so odds are good its there. What most people do is replace the resistance wire with a solid copper wire from the firewall connector back to the coil.

I wouldn't try to salvage the old connector socket by crimping or soldering the old socket back on a new wire. For one thing the solder won't stick to the brass and it will eventually fall apart on you. Instead get a replacement pin. Most autoparts stores should have them. They are made by Packard Electronics and are stamped with a P.E.D. Alternatively you can cut the resistance wire about 3" from the connector and butt-splice a new copper wire on. The 3" or so of old resistance wire will add some rresistance to the circuit, but it should be a small amount. Put heat shrink over a bare butt splice that has been crimped, soldered and doped with dielectric grease.

The firewall connector can be disconnected by loosening a bolt in the center (underhood side). It's a 3/8" or 7/16" bolt.
 

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Ever notice how big the factory power lead is to the HEI? They do it for a reason. Either use a relay triggered by your orgional dist lead or find a keyed 12volt source that powers nothing else and use that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses. I'm going to hook up the battery and see what power is going through the wires. I managed to find a matching plugs for the HEI + and - terminals at the local yard so I will try to use those.
 

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The HEI only gets switched 12 volts into the BAT terminal. The TACH or (-) terminal is for a tach only. Don't ground this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, that's what I was thinking because my '85 is wired that way too. Hopefully I'll get 12 volts form the pinkwire in place. In a somewhat related wiring topic, I also put a new internal regulated alternator on. My old external reg is long gone. I went to rewire it based on the tech article here on the site and found that the wires were plugged into a plastic unit that loops them just as the articles specs. It has four spade connections and terminates the middle two and loops the oter two wires. Anyone seen that before?
 

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If it looks like a plastic bar that plugs into the regulator connector it could be part of a kit. M & H wiring is one place that makes the CS or SI alternator conversion kit for around $15.00. No harness cutting or soldering. Just select your car and the should show the kit under it.
www.wiringharness.com
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I looked up my car on thtat site and found the picture of the clip. The last owner must have started to convert it before he sold it to me. Lucky for me I guess.
 
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