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Discussion Starter #1
All,

Recently my 1969 Camaro just stopped starting so I have replaced the starter with a new rebuilt starter, but no change, tried different batteries with no change, metered out the wires at the neutral safety switch, 12vdc coming in 12vdc coming out, and metered out the wires going to the starter, "S" have no voltage with key turned, "R" have 12vdc.

I guy who owned this car before me had made several crimped connections on the engine side so I eliminated all the splices, still no power to the "S" side of the starter. I am thinking the ignition switch has gone bad.

Also since I have an HEI dizzy why would I need anything coming off the "R" side?

Any thoughts on this one?

Thanks,

Joe
 

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...metered out the wires at the neutral safety switch, 12vdc coming in 12vdc coming out, and metered out the wires going to the starter, "S" have no voltage with key turned, "R" have 12vdc. Joe
You are trying to get engine to turn over with the starter?

If so, purple wire should go from ign switch to Neutral safety switch to firewall connector to S terminal on solenoid.
If starter is grounded good to block and neg battery cable is bolted to block, rather than alt bracket, solenoid will pull in, yellow wire on R terminal will supply START ign power to HEi BATT terminal and engine, if timed correctly, should start and run.
 

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All you care about at this moment is powering (12V DC to ground) the solenoid S-terminal when the key is turned to the start position.
Do you have 12.6V across the battery? Lights? Horn?
Forget the ignition and the R-terminal. With an HEI, the R-terminal and yellow (resistance) wire isn't used.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
All you care about at this moment is powering (12V DC to ground) the solenoid S-terminal when the key is turned to the start position.
Do you have 12.6V across the battery? Lights? Horn?
Forget the ignition and the R-terminal. With an HEI, the R-terminal and yellow (resistance) wire isn't used.

Head lights, gauges, instrument lights work. No horn installed. I have 12vdc across the battery, a good ground to the starter, if I take a wire and go straight from POS+ side of the battery to the "S" side of the starter the starter kicks out and turn the motor. So the power to the starter and the starter seems good.

Does the starter wire from the ignition go through the firewall wire connection with the other wires going to the engine compartment?
What color should be on the engine compartment side and what color wire come off the ignition switch. Is it purple on both sides?

THANKS

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #6
All,

Well it never amazes me what has been done to these cars over the 46 years of it their life.
So I started back tracking the wires off the starter since the wire showing with black and not purple. After unwinding electrical tape for 20 mins I found that the wire to the starter have bee sliced four times in four places with four crimp connectors which finally lead me back to the purple wire I was in search of. Once I cut all this old sliced wire out and stripped the end of the purple wire I did a continuity test to the ignition switch which worked, but still no 12v. So I pulled the console part again and jumped out the neutral safety switch and bang 12v! I seem I have an intermittent problem with the neutral safety switch. I started metering out the switch and it seem to work and then after moving the shifter in and out of park several times it failed again. New switch is ordered, I will be soldering and shrink wrapping the new wire to the starter and putting everything back together again, neater and better than it was.

Thanks again,

Joe
 

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I seem I have an intermittent problem with the neutral safety switch. I started metering out the switch and it seem to work and then after moving the shifter in and out of park several times it failed again.
Check that the switch is mounted in the correct postion.. from memory one end of the switch is adjustable... it not quite in the right place u will find it is 'sensitive' aas you describe.
These switches are robust, but if the orginal, yes would be well due for replacement... or carefully dismantle.. watch for the tiny springs...and clean/ reassemble.
 

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Check that the switch is mounted in the correct postion.. from memory one end of the switch is adjustable... it not quite in the right place u will find it is 'sensitive' aas you describe.
Correct - actually both mounting holes are slotted for adjustment. If the switch wasn't adjusted when the 700R4 was added that could well be the problem.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks I will check the switch adjustment tomorrow.
Just got back from a warm summer's night ride.
Nothing better for the sole!

-Joe
 
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