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I have a 93 camaro z28 and it will run great for days/weeks then won't! I will be driving along fine then the thing dies and won't start for a couple of hours. It will crank but no fire. Have had towed twice and as soon as the tow truck gets to my driveway it starts right up again! Fuel pump working fine, changed fuel filter, mechanic confused as to the problem. States car isn't giving any codes.
:(:sad:
 

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It still sounds like a fuel problem.

Your mechanic will have to duplicate the condition and then run a few tests.

One quick test you can do yourself right now is to hit the bottom of the gas tank with your hand and listen for broken baffles. It will sound like broken plastic rolling around. It's quite common and could cause an intermittent loss of fuel pressure.

If it's broken you will need a new tank and strainer, maybe even a pump too.
 

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dizzy=distributor

Had a similar issue as you. This is going to sound absolutely retarded.

383 stroker Holley commander 950 FI, MSD Billet Distributor. Car would get to operating temp, start cutting out, and eventually would slowly die. Then would not start again until the engine had cooled below 130. Chased everything, fuel pump, reloaded fuel maps, checked signal voltage, blah blah blah. Finally was about to give up, and by give up i mean yank the engine and use it as a boat anchor i was so mad. Then i decided to check the most unlikely of problems. I checked how many amps my starter was pulling at operating temp. Low and behold, that piece of crap factory starter was pulling so much juice when the engine got hot that the alternator could not keep up, and was messing up the electrical system. Changed the starter, have not had a problem since. Actually the car started running liking a striped ape. Apparently it had been going bad slowly, even though it had always cranked just fine. So just when you think that you have checked everything, there is always going to be that incredibly stupid unthinkable thing. Basically what i am saying is that i would let the thing get hot, and start checking voltage everywhere i could.
 

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I tend to agree with COPO about the coil or distributor. Your problem sounds temp related. If it were loose stuff in the tank plugging it up, the car wouldn't have to sit for a couple of hours before restarting. It is also a common problem on the LT1 engines to have problems with ignition modules and the opti spark distributors that are so convieniently located under the water pump. Also you stating that you have no fire definately indicates an ignition problem. I would likely start by checking the ignition module first.
 

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When my optispark (distributor) went on my 93 Z28, it would back fire once in a while and die out when it rained. I would lean more towards the coil first if its completely dieing out right off the get go, but I have had the optispark act just like what you're describing as well.
There are a couple places where you can find a lot of good info on the optisparks. Just google optispark vacuum conversion or something similar. It should give you a nice breakdown of the whole system. They aren't as bad as they seem to work on. The best thing I ever did to mine was add vacuum to it. The 93s didn't have it and the moisture would reak havoc. Luckily now you have options and can replace the whole unit with a more reliable a/m set up. They weren't really available when I had mine. I ended up adding an MSD 6AL box and an MSD Blaster coil (in addition to a ton of other mods).
 

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I have a 93z that did the same thing, I could drive it when I shut off it would crank over but would not start,until it set for a couple of hours.drove me crazy.first ck bat term.the center was broke out wasn`t noticeable till I look closely.i change coil first.has been running great since.
 
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