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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i can't do a burn-out to save my life. how is this a problem, right? i'm not sure if it is. i've got a high torque 383 (rear wheel-360ft/lbs at 3-4.2k rpm) in front of a th350, 1350 u-joints, and a locking ford 9" with 3.25 gears pushin' mickey thompson drag radials (275/40r17). the rear suspension is global west l-2 springs with the del-a-lum bushings and shackles and vari-shock quickset 1's. i can only hold the car to about 1600 rpm with my drum brakes (yes, discs soon, as $ allows!) and even then, while slamming the pedal down, not even a hint of a squeal. the torque converter is a 2200 stall which was recommended by the speed shop guy because it's a street car. is lacking the ability to burnout a good thing? or do i need more torque converter? tci recommends a 2500 stall, but is that ok to be running the streets with daily? on the freeway i'm at 3000+ rpms at 75mph, so that should be good, right? i'd like to get the car to the track soon (for the first time), to see what my 60ft times are. she does take off like a rocket, straight and true without hop, but i can't even get the tires hot. or do i need to? i run them as mickey thompson's website recommends, 75% of max, which is 33psi. any comments or recommendations? is this a problem? i'm just not sure what i should do (if anything) about this...
 

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Without having a LineLock, you could loosen up the brake adjustment on the rear brakes. All you're doing now is heating up the trans fluid.

This way only the front brakes are grabbing hard. Just don't forget to adjust them back tighter before going street driving.
 

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Those gears ain't helping any. Those are highway crusin gears. Not great for burnouts. I was never a big fan of power braking. Using the brake to do a burnout just doesn't seem right. Linelock is for the track, not to do burnouts on the street. If you can't smoke em just by mashin' the loud pedal then it's not a "real" burnout in my book. JMO.
 

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1600 rpm launch with drag radials....I would expect no tire spin.Swap to a converter that gets into your powerband.Even with a 383 stroker...1600 rpm is not far off idle speed and your torque is low at this rpm.
 

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seems like you need more converter to me...if you cant keep the car still past 1600, than that is your effective stall speed...stall speed (as described to me) is the point when at full brake, you cant keep the car still anymore...i would think if you could get the converter to slip further into the rpm range, you would feel a ton more performance, and spin the tires to boot...as per above post, you should get insight from your cam manufacturer as to stall speed, but i would think 2400 would be a good number...jmo...
 

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personally, I think the combo should be able to power brake'em.

True, you need more gear and definitely more converter but still, I think that package should be able to do it.

Are you ***mashing*** the brake pedal and then tipping into the gas?
If so, for cars on the edge of being able to do this slowly letting off of the brake pedal when you have a good 1/2-3/4 gas will usually let the spinning begin. Once they're going, you can go ahead and push back down on the brake a little to keep from moving.

.......only at the Track of course. ;)
 

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Being that one of my cars is a 4spd, peg-leg GTO, I am not familiar with this problem:



Dipping into the secondaries is pretty much useless for traction, even in 2nd from a roll (which is when that pic was taken). My stock, TH400 410 posi Z will still smoke em, but not as much.

Sounds like you could use less tire. TC stall could also be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thanks for the responses, gentlemen. as for getting a recommendation from the cam manufacturer, it's a custom grind for the aluminum vortecs, so i don't think i have anywhere to go with that. the mt tires are very sticky, and i really just bought them for fun to do some drags before i put the more expensive goodyear f1's on the back. will the increase in converter make it annoying to get around town? i like the 'fun factor' and that is my overall goal with this car, not so much 'ultimate performance'. right now, she snaps off the line with great throttle response and no noise, so no chance of getting a ticket, so that's a good thing, right? i've heard of people running pretty high stall converters on street cars, but does anyone know how that will affect my car? going from a 2200 to 2500 stall? right now it has annoying problem of dropping 400 to 450 rpm when i put it in gear and i think that more converter can help that, right? thanks again for all the input...
 

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I get a better result if I leave it at idle and stab the gas to the floor in an effort to flash the convert up. When I load up the converter by holding the brake, I get a markedly worse launch.
But I agree with some here, doing burnouts is for the track. To do one on the street is counter productive.
I constantly get people giving me the burn them off signal when they see me. Sure it would be fun but its a massive ticket in these parts and my luck would DICTATE that there would be a cop that I didn't see but surely saw me. Around here, they impound your car for that! :(

Seems to me like you have good hook and that's what its all about right? I am spending lots of dollars on efforts to hook up. Its my biggest issue. I have a 2.5 to 2.6 60' time and I get 115 to 119 for mph at the end.
If I were you, I'd run at the track and do my best and make adjustments from there based on your results.

When at the track I get the best result by driving around the water and backing into it. They get a bit irritated with me but I get a better launch. I don't have line lock so I back into the water, flash the converter like I stated above, they get to spinning and as they dry off and heat up and it starts to hook I let off a little and shift and then get off the gas.
Then I go into reverse and back up to stage.

I don't like running my front tires through the water.
I'm a bit of a PIA for the track people but hooking is a serious issue for me so I pull every trick I can in an effort to NOT spin the tires when the 3rd yellow comes down.
 

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thanks for the responses, gentlemen. as for getting a recommendation from the cam manufacturer, it's a custom grind for the aluminum vortecs, so i don't think i have anywhere to go with that. the mt tires are very sticky, and i really just bought them for fun to do some drags before i put the more expensive goodyear f1's on the back. will the increase in converter make it annoying to get around town? i like the 'fun factor' and that is my overall goal with this car, not so much 'ultimate performance'. right now, she snaps off the line with great throttle response and no noise, so no chance of getting a ticket, so that's a good thing, right? i've heard of people running pretty high stall converters on street cars, but does anyone know how that will affect my car? going from a 2200 to 2500 stall? right now it has annoying problem of dropping 400 to 450 rpm when i put it in gear and i think that more converter can help that, right? thanks again for all the input...
More converter will help your problem with the rpm's dropping too low like that.

I run mine on the street on sunny days with a 4k stall and 4:88 gears. I run the TH400 through a big tranny cooler and I take it easy. When I put it in gear and release the brake at idle, it goes. I manually shift and it does fine.

(When I first bought this car, my car trailer plans fell through on the day I had to pick up the car. I had no choice but to drive it. It had NO mufflers and slicks on it, I drove to the first tire store I could and I will tell you what, it was turning heads with that noise. And it was VERY hard to drive it on the street with slicks. A dry summer day too. I was up against the wall with an awesome opportunity to buy a 1st gen Camaro and I felt I had no choice but to take it that day or it would be GONE!)
 
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