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Discussion Starter #1
When I fired my 460 for the first time, my timing was way too retarded and it took me a couple of tries to get it figured out. Once I turned the hell out of the dizzy, it fired right up.

Well now it's time to fire the 454 in my tow vehicle. I'm trying to figure how to get real close so it fires with a couple of cranks. Carb will be full and so on.....this is just a timing question. If I have my motor at exactly TDC, and I have a pen mark on the base of my dizzy for #1, about where to the left or right of my mark (as you are looking at my dist) should my rotor be???





Sorry......I'm not for hire as a graphics design artist!!!! :D
 

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The distributor is advanced by rotating it the same direction that the vacuum advance pulls the breaker plate (counter clockwise as you look down on the distributor). So if you rotate the dist counterclockwise towards the mark on the right, you are advancing the ignition system. (This is one of those things you need to close you eyes and think about).

;)

alan
 

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I stab em at about 20-30-40 BTC and line the rotor up with the center of the lug. I don't even need a timing tab, just get the TDC mark somewhere slightly drivers side of vertical and it'll go first revolution. I don't use vac advance usually but if I did it wouldn't be on there for 1st bust off.

The timing light trick doesn't work real well on my Summit distributor, only flashes if you twist the distributor fast and then you are unsure where you were when it flashed:). Old batts in my light? nawww. Never tried it on my MSD or a GM HEI. I bet the MSD would light it.
 

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I use a similar technique to JimM.. but not with a timing light as I too have problems getting them to fire. Instead I pull #1 plug wire off the plug, and stick a screwdriver in the end of the wire (tight fit)... with the ignition ON, and the distributor loosened, hold the screwdriver blade near to a 'ground' (near being about 1/16" or so).. now rotate the distributor back and forth til you hear/see the spark from the screwdriver arcing to ground. If you just rotate the distributor back and forth.. smaller and smaller around the 'arc' point, you can get the timing set within a degree or so of *desired* (if you start the engine off at TDC with the crankshaft mark set to the desired point). I never have problems with immediate fire using this technique, and the timing is close enough to 'run in' the engine without doing anything additional...

Gary
 

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The most important thing when setting Initial Timing of any engine is to ensure the Throttle plates of the carb are positioned between the 2 orifices just below the transition slots of the Venture Throats. This is the Idle Circuit. Set the Idle Air Screw at approx 1 turn off Seat and ensure the secondary plates are seated. Don't mess with the Carb adjustment until after you have established the Initial Timing. If you do it's usually minor adjustment of the throttle screw to place the Plates in the optimum position of the Idle Circuit and the Idle Air Screw respond. Plug all Vacuum sources; Distributor Pod, PCV, PB line, Tranny Modulator Valve ... etc. There must be no Vacuum leaks. Pour a little gas down the Carb throat and turn the Distributor until it Starts and Idles nicely with the existing Carb setting then lock the Distributor. This is the Initial Timing and is different for every engine. You can now reconnect the vacuum sources and fiddle with the Idle Air and Throttle Stop Screws. The Idle Air optimum is approx 3/4 turn off the seat and no more them 1 1/4 turn. If it's not there something is wrong. The Throttle Screw can be adjusted to compensated for accessory loads like Electric Fans, Air Conditioning, minor vacuum usage for PCV... etc.

NOTE: If a BBC doesn't fire within one a couple of turns OPEN the hood and check things out. You never know. A friend of mine with a BBC opened his hood after a couple of turns to find the Air Cleaner Off and the Coil wire stuck down the Carb after blowing the doors off a Competitor.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ron....this thing will be lit on an engine stand. The carb is already set to fire at about 2,300 rpms. It's not new. It's the carb that was on the truck before I rebuilt it. I know that you DO NOT want to be messing with carb settings when you are trying to break in a cam, etc.

As for the badbird Ron.......You ought to see how thick my coke-bottle glasses are!
 
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