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Discussion Starter #1
So i put on my ralleys last night and now i have a rubbing noise when turning left coming from the right front. It wasn't there before the wheel swap and it's not a tire rub. Any ideas???

I did pull the rf drum and check the shoes before bolting the wheel on.

Help?
 

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i'm sure of you look around the wheelwell area you will find the rub marks....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I can't even turn a 1/4 turn and it starts making noise. i'm only running215/65/15's
 

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lmao! That's my noise! I replaced the entire front suspension, a-arms, brakes, bearings, everything, and came out of it with that same noise. A metalic scraping, happens with virtually any amount of left turn. Seems loudest when going slow and easy, but perhaps that is the lack of other noises?

I've checked the wheel bearings 3 times...
 

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lmao! That's my noise! I replaced the entire front suspension, a-arms, brakes, bearings, everything, and came out of it with that same noise. A metalic scraping, happens with virtually any amount of left turn. Seems loudest when going slow and easy, but perhaps that is the lack of other noises?

I've checked the wheel bearings 3 times...
Jim I think you have disc up front don't you? check the dust shield rubbing on the A-arm. just a thought :beers:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I repacked my bearings - no difference. Went on a 50mile run then pulled the wheels and can't find any witness marks.
 

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So i put on my ralleys last night and now i have a rubbing noise when turning left coming from the right front. It wasn't there before the wheel swap and it's not a tire rub. Any ideas???

I did pull the rf drum and check the shoes before bolting the wheel on.

Help?
are the rally's you put on the same backspace as the wheels you took off?
 

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Once I had a rubbing noise and found out that the lugnuts on my wheels were hand tight... Just a thought. Do you torque your wheels after everytime you take them off?
 

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Have you tried raising that wheel off the ground with a jack supporting the lower control arm and spinning the wheel while gradually turning the steering wheel?
 

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Todd and Jim,

Check the rear bottom fender bolt that you see in the wheel well. Also if you have the wheel well trim, check that out too :) Just look for shinny spots on the bolts and trim .



Kev
 

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Damn!

Found mine. The top of the caliper mounting bracket, or the bolt head, is rubbing on the backside of the disc. BOTH SIDES.

Wonder if this is worth a new thread? Or just a call to Wilwood?

The Wilwood brackets come with a selection of shims and spacers so you can use them with either drum or disc spindles. I "KNOW" I used the right spacers, checked the whole stack with a dial caliper, compared to the parts list, and sorted according to which ones read thicker or thinner...

Since they are fixed calipers, I'll probably have to pull everything off, reshim the top for clearance, reshim the bottom to get the bracket straight, then reshim the caliper to the bracket to center it on the rotor.

Or I could just ignore it. At least I know it's not something really bad, like wheel bearings grinding themselves to dust.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
found mine also - it was actually rubbing in the RR on the back side of the tire against the fender/trunk wall. I am currently using 15x7 ralleys (FW) w/ 255/60-15's, but am switching to 15x8's using 255/60-15, would going with 4.75bs take care of this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
what is the std bs on an FW 15x7 ralley rim?
 

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Don't know if it will help you or not but I run 15 x 8's w/ 4 3/4 bs.and 255's. If you are rubbing the backside already with [I'am assuming 4 1/2 bs] it will be closer to the well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think I am asking the wrong questions.

If I currently have a 255/60r15 mounted on a 15x7 FW code ralley rim and it's currently rubbing. And I am ordering new15x8 rear wheels using the same 255/60r15, what backspacing would I want to eliminate the rub? Also does the fact that I'm rubbing only on one side mean that my axle is not centered?
 

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Damn!

Found mine. The top of the caliper mounting bracket, or the bolt head, is rubbing on the backside of the disc. BOTH SIDES.

Wonder if this is worth a new thread? Or just a call to Wilwood?

The Wilwood brackets come with a selection of shims and spacers so you can use them with either drum or disc spindles. I "KNOW" I used the right spacers, checked the whole stack with a dial caliper, compared to the parts list, and sorted according to which ones read thicker or thinner...

Since they are fixed calipers, I'll probably have to pull everything off, reshim the top for clearance, reshim the bottom to get the bracket straight, then reshim the caliper to the bracket to center it on the rotor.

Or I could just ignore it. At least I know it's not something really bad, like wheel bearings grinding themselves to dust.
I have the EXACT same setup and EXACT same issue that Jim described above. I've sent Jim a PM to see what he endup doing but I know he is drag racing that RV of his across country....Anyone know what the resolution was?

Amazing part is that Jim had this issue over 2 years ago! At least Wilwood is being consistant.... :mad:

 

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I have the EXACT same setup and EXACT same issue that Jim described above. I've sent Jim a PM to see what he endup doing but I know he is drag racing that RV of his across country....Anyone know what the resolution was?

Amazing part is that Jim had this issue over 2 years ago! At least Wilwood is being consistant.... :mad:
So I slept on it... In order to fix this the gap between the rotor and the mounting bracket must be increased. This would mean shimming out the rotor away from the bracket. But is that even possible given it is the inner cone bearing that dictates how far the entire assembly slides on to the spindle? The bearing needs to slide on the spindle as far as it needs in order to seat itself, so shimming it out is not an option. After looking at the brake assembly manual (see pic below) I can't think of another shim solution. So option two would be to grind down the bolt/mounting-bracket area.

Of course I could leave it and let the rotor grind down to where it's not making contact anymore but that just doesn't sound right at all...

 
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