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Discussion Starter #1
I know that usually means ground issue...sigh

Installing factory console gauges and tachometer.
What's working: speedometer lights, gauge lights, temp gauge
What's not working: tach clock, tach lights, console courtesy light, dome light, fuel guage.

I have the ammeter gauge disconnected at the power source (horn relay and battery junction) since I'm not going to use it. I installed a Autometer voltmeter and it's working.

Thanks.
 

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From what I can see the only things these all have in common is the headlamp switch/ fuse. Check those to see if there is a loose wire or the fuse is blown.
 

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Yes if the switch is good, the wire is conncected, the dimmer switch is good, the bulbs are good and the fuse isn't burnt.

There should be a dark green wire from the switch to a fuse where it leaves grey. this grey is a common wire to the gauges and what not from the light switch (white wire for the dome and courtesy light connected to door switch this is also connected to a fuse being hot at all times).
 

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I'll say yes, but the book and diagram doesn't give the fuse a name. The gray wire should be common to them all as the power source from the fuse. Which origonated from the switch as a dark green wire changing at the fuse to the gray.

Should be a 20 amp fuse
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'll say yes, but the book and diagram doesn't give the fuse a name. The gray wire should be common to them all as the power source from the fuse. Which origonated from the switch as a dark green wire changing at the fuse to the gray.

Should be a 20 amp fuse
Which book do you have and is it any clearer to understand than the Assembly Instruction Manual when it comes to wiring?

Sorry for all the electrical questions, I know as much about wiring as I do animal husbandry. :D

My car is in Delaware now going through some major winter (now spring) work and I'm paying someone 50 bucks an hour to troubleshoot issues, so the more I find out the better for me.

Adding console gauges and tach was the smallest of the things we did and it's taking the longest to complete. :(
 

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If you think you have a ground issue, get a digital volt meter. Attach the black probe to the battery negative post. You might have to rig up a probe extension of some type. Attach the red probe to you guage ground. Then activate the gauge circuit and see if any voltage appears on your DVM. You should see less than 0.05 volts as a general rule. If you see 12V, your ground is not connected at all. If you see a lower voltage, the ground is bad.

You can use the same technique to debug the hot side - meter readings of less than 0.05 are beuno.
 

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The ILLUM fuse is the short one at the bottom of the fusebox.
It's a 4 amp.
Since the speedo illuminates, it is not the problem.

I cannot think of one single thing to tie all these symptoms together, therefore I think you have multiple problems.

I may merge all your posts on this together so those trying to help you aren't starting cold.
 

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Did you use a new gauge type pcb for the cluster?

Since the speedo lights up and the tach doesn't, the problem must be in the cluster pcb connections.

The Clock needs BAT 12 volts. This doesn't exist in a non tach 68 cluster, or in the harness plug that attaches to it. It's one of the new wires you had to run. This power comes from the CLK-CTY-LTR fuse, which is a 20 amp fuse, top left in the fusebox.
It's very possible this fuse blew due to something being miswired.

What exactly is the fuel gauge doing?
If it's way past full, the sender wire (you had to move this one from the cluster connector) isn't connected.
If it just doesn't move, the gauge doesn't have power.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did you use a new gauge type pcb for the cluster?

Since the speedo lights up and the tach doesn't, the problem must be in the cluster pcb connections.

The Clock needs BAT 12 volts. This doesn't exist in a non tach 68 cluster, or in the harness plug that attaches to it. It's one of the new wires you had to run. This power comes from the CLK-CTY-LTR fuse, which is a 20 amp fuse, top left in the fusebox.
It's very possible this fuse blew due to something being miswired.

What exactly is the fuel gauge doing?
If it's way past full, the sender wire (you had to move this one from the cluster connector) isn't connected.
If it just doesn't move, the gauge doesn't have power.
Yes, I did install the tach PCB. The fuel gauge is showing full, which I know is wrong. It's not moving.

I know the clock was working last week, but we had rewire some things because I eliminated the ammeter, added a voltmeter and we had the MSD wired wrong. I'll have my guy check the power connections and fuses.

Thanks JimM.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the assistance. My problems turned out to be a blown fuse and we cut the wrong end of the fuel sender wire. We replaced the 20 amp fuse for and attached the tan wire for the fuel guage directly to the fuel sender wire bypassing the plug. Everything seems to be working. The car will be back on the road this week. Life is good. :beers:
 
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