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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This might be an easy fix, but I’m lost.

I just changed from a TH-350 to a M20. I removed all the linkage and plugged the vacuum lines ect., I also replaced the gauges, replaced brake lines, and cleaned up years of bad wiring by prior owners. So basically, I’ve done quite a bit to it both mechanically and electrically since it was last on the road.

Last night, I finally put everything back together, and it would not start, it turned over but was a no go. I chased this problem to no switched power going to the coil. Easy fix for that, and it started right up. I was a little rough but it had not run in a couple of months. The engine has always had a little backfire through the carb and I was going to tackle that next. When it ran last night, it backfired a couple of times, but it did start and run somewhat smoothly eventhough it was cold.. I did not drive it at the time or let it run for very long.

This morning, I went to work on it and would not start, then when it started it sounded like something was hitting the fan (nothing was hitting the fan but that was the sound) clunk, clunk, clunk. It sounds like the timing is way off or it is detonating. Also the engine would not turn off with the key and I needed to pull the coil power wire. I checked and rechecked the switched coil wire power and it only has power when the accessory switch is on, but it turns off when I pull the coil power wire from the fuse box.

Before the switch it ran like a champ (except for the back fire when accelerating very slowly from a stop). And like I said it ran last night, then this morning I have the problem with it starting, loud clunk from the engine when it did start, and not turning off unless I pull the wire to the coil from the fuse box.

No plug wires have been switch and all are tight. Timing has not been changed from when it was last running.

I will take any help on where to start looking. I have checked all of the wiring and it appears that everything is correct.

Is it possible that the carb now needs to be ajusted, or the timing changed on it own?

Thanks
Jason

It a small block 350 with camal hump heads, more than mild cam, m-20, MSD dist.:confused:
 

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Last time I dropped my trans. I cracked the distributor cap when I let the rear of the trans down off the crossmember. The backfire sounds sounds like a timing issue. I'd start by checking the cap and rotor and set the timing.

There seems to be another electrical gremlin preventing it from shutting off
do you have an electric fan? I have heard that electric fans can cause this.

TTFN
Mat
 

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I think Matt's on it on the cracked distributor cap. I've done that too.

For the "not turning off" thing, something is backfeeding the ignition.
Is the yellow wire on the starter connected, to the outboard terminal on the starter? Have you added an MSD box, or one wire alternator?

Exactly which part of the wiring did you take care of?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
See thats why i like Team Camaro, even though i know my way around an engine, i would not have thought about the dist cap,Ill look into it.

I do have lots of experience in wiring though, so i should be able to figure this one out. im just puzzled that it takes pulling the wire from the fuse box, even if their is no power to the circuit at the time.

My rewiring was new speedo and tach from other after market gauges and cleaning up some of the other wiring. I did put in a new starter. i changed to a 168 tooth from a 154. and the new starter is a high torque model.

I'll look into the dist. cap and let you know. If there is anything else i can look for let me know.

Thanks
 

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i`ve run into a backfeeding issue where the alternator is the culprit...when the car`s running, the alt is making power, and backfeeding the ign...when the car`s off, no power to the ign wire when the key`s off...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I checked the Dist. Cap and it looks intact. I did not see anything broken or cracks.

It is strange that it ran last night and this morning this. The only thing i did was hook up the coil to the accessory switch power and adjust the clutch.

the loud noise sounds like open headers?

would the timing change by itself?
 

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timing wont change by itself...either the distributor would have to muve, the wires moved on the cap, or it jumped time...the last is very rare, and you would hear chain slap on the timing cover...unless you are running open headers...lol...
 

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Well.... I have another oddball cause. A missing spark plug will sound like open headers. A loose one might make a thunking sound. And no, changing a transmission will not make a spark plug loosen ;) .

TTFN
Mat
 

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When you changed your starter, did you loosen your header or exhaust? Did you use the same brand and size of header gasket? I've ran into that before. Shop said they were correct and leaked like a bear.
 

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the dreaded dust cover with a bend...i put a 700r4 in my truck without removing the y pipe..i bent the hell outta that thing...i put it back in 2 times, and then gave it the float test...(throw it in the river, and see if it floats)lmao
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ha Ha the good old float test. I'll proable trim the old one, and if that does not work I'll be heading to Parde Island for Spring Break so I see if it'll float in sea water.

thanks for the help. now to set the timing
 
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