If you don't have to much to fix after sandblasting i would try brazing rod to fill in. Maybe powder coating shop has a solution. I wouldn't put body filler on it even if it would withstand temperature because that will absorb moisture and rust on you. Also ask them if auto body lead will hold up.
Some people swear by "Leading".
I picked up a 1lb roll of 100% Lead striping, at my local HobbyLobby (look by the stained glass).
If you use this, wear gloves, well ventilated, etc.. (lead fumes are dangerous)
I also used a product called "All-Steel" on my firewall.
I can't remember the brand, but I'll keep looking.
Its available at your local auto paint store.
It mixes and lays on like bondo, but is made with alumunim and steel shavings and epoxy.
What about the 425 degree heat cure, can the powder coater do this?
Hi-Temp Lab Metal 24 oz
Hi-Temp Lab-metal withstands 1000 degrees F. If hi-temp leveling or filling is needed this is the product to use. Thin with Lab Solvent (10208ZP) to ease spreadability. Typically dries in 24 hours, heat cure at 425¦ F for 1 hour before exposing to high temperatures. Great for filling surfaces before powder coating where 2 or more coats are required. Net wt. 24 oz.
I think you need to worry about the electrical conductivity too. The powder coat needs a conductive surface to flow out on. I've been told by a friend that has a lot of powerder coating done that the Alvin Hi-Temp Metal Lab has sufficient conductivity for this.
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