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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am needing to smooth out a subframe that has some pits after that I want to powercoat it, any one know of a way to do this.:hurray:
 

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If you don't have to much to fix after sandblasting i would try brazing rod to fill in. Maybe powder coating shop has a solution. I wouldn't put body filler on it even if it would withstand temperature because that will absorb moisture and rust on you. Also ask them if auto body lead will hold up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I am looking at a product called Hi-Temp Metal Lab, it is made by Alvin Products and is sold mostly in Welding Supply shops
 

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Ed, are you saying the powder coating process will put moisture into the body filler, I'm a little confused. Or are you saying putting filler on a frame will draw moisture and make it rust.

Rob
 

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Some people swear by "Leading".
I picked up a 1lb roll of 100% Lead striping, at my local HobbyLobby (look by the stained glass).
If you use this, wear gloves, well ventilated, etc.. (lead fumes are dangerous)

I also used a product called "All-Steel" on my firewall.
I can't remember the brand, but I'll keep looking.
Its available at your local auto paint store.
It mixes and lays on like bondo, but is made with alumunim and steel shavings and epoxy.

I've also read about the ceramic spray-on product, made by www.secondskinaudio.com
 

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What about the 425 degree heat cure, can the powder coater do this?

Rob

Hi-Temp Lab Metal 24 oz

Hi-Temp Lab-metal withstands 1000 degrees F. If hi-temp leveling or filling is needed this is the product to use. Thin with Lab Solvent (10208ZP) to ease spreadability. Typically dries in 24 hours, heat cure at 425¦ F for 1 hour before exposing to high temperatures. Great for filling surfaces before powder coating where 2 or more coats are required. Net wt. 24 oz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the info, also I have been looking at hi temp primer and the Alvin products continue to pop up
 
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