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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a set of Holley Engine mounts for a LT engine. The part number for the engine mounts are 71221024HKR. The engine I am trying to bolt them to is a LT4 with a wet sump.

There is a pipe that goes from the oil pan to the front area. I think it might be some sort of PVC circuit for blow by.

The is pipe is between the engine mount and the block. If I tighten the bolts, I will crush the pipe.

Has anyone run into this problem? I think I will have to make a new pipe.


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That is the drain for GMs version of a catch can. You can get a plug for it or there are several aftermarket alternatives. Mighty Mouse for one.

Don
 

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Is the stock catch can going to work with your accessory drive? Are you using the stock accessory drive?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the help and advice.

I have not bought the front accessory drive. I was thinking seriously about Hollys FEAD but now I am having second thoughts. They advertised the motor mounts I bought would fit an LT4 with a Detroit Speed Subframe. I think they might fit an LT1 engine, and Holly assumed they would fit an LT4.

For your view pleasure here are some more photos of the tube. It is an interesting piece of junk. The tube is 5/8" thin wall steel tubing. It has a heat shield between the motor mount bolts.



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Under the heat shield, there is a rubber hose.

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The ends have a modern day flared fitting. I do not know what you call this type. They are held on with a clip. Does anybody know the name of the fitting and where I may buy this type?
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I heated one of the fittings with MAP gas. I was trying to get the fittings to separate from the tube.
It did not budge. The tube looks like it was bent with a pair of Vice Grips and a chisel punch. The bends are kinked and dented.

I thought about cutting the tube and installing a -10 AN fitting. I am afraid there is not enough straight tubing for me to side a tube nut on and use my flaring tool. I thought about cutting the motor mount and welding a round, half tube so the pipe will clear the motor mount. I could weaken the strength of the motor mount doing this.

I installed the motor in my car. The oil pan is three inches from the floor. Looks like I will need a
new oil pan. So, this old tube is not going to work anyway. The oil pan looks like it has a check valve inside the oil pan where this tube is fastened.


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The engine fits. So that is good. I have some room between the motor and the firewall. I think the hood will close.


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It took three months to get the motor mounts. Mr. Dutton, I should have taken your advice and ordered a wiring harness from Speartech. I am still waiting for GM to make one.
 

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I think any swap system will require an oil pan change and it’s unlikely anyone else’s mounts would clear that drain tube. Similarly I am pretty sure any aftermarket accessory drive will not clear the GM catch can because you are adding a power steering pump that is not on the stock GM accessory drive.

Gotta pay to play Patrick…

Don
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I think any swap system will require an oil pan change and it’s unlikely anyone else’s mounts would clear that drain tube. Similarly I am pretty sure any aftermarket accessory drive will not clear the GM catch can because you are adding a power steering pump that is not on the stock GM accessory drive.

Gotta pay to play Patrick…

Don

You know that I am cheap. Today, I decided I would cut the bottom of the oil pan off to make it shorter. You cannot do that with a LT engine. The oil pickup tube will prevent this simple fix. :mad:

I found a replacement pan made by Top Street Performance. It looks to be a Holley clone. The street price makes it about a $100.00 cheaper compared to Holley.

LT Aluminum Rear Sump Low-Profile Retro-Fit Oil Pan

Holley makes a catch can that will replace the GM plastic one. It bolts up in the same location. Part number: 97-206 price $79.00. ugh, mumble, mumble, muttering sounds. It accepts fittings that I understand (NPT). It will work with their pully kit that has an AC compressor, alternator, and power steering pump. I looked further and Holley makes a replacement tube and fitting kit for the assembly that I am having problems. Lower intestinal growling sounds.

You see this? I converted my automatic transmission brake pedal to a one that has a clutch. A lot of the parts were made from scrap steel. Very cheap but works good. This makes me happy.

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What oil pan did you use for your truck LT1 conversion?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Maybe I can make a catch out of 18 gauge scrap sheet metal to replace the plastic one. I could use NPT or AN style fittings. Yes indeed, that would be a good idea. Smiling now.



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I am not sure that the catch can is a simple can. Somewhere in the system are check/PCV valve(s). I recommend the Holley part, this is no place for experimentation imho. Bad things can happen in supercharged engines if they are not properly vented.

I was able to use the stock LT truck pan but it was a truck build with a lot of ground clearance.

Don
 

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Not sure this is the route you want to go in but if you decide to use the Holley pan this company makes a drain back kit.
I don't know if it'll work with oil pans from other companies? My Holley LS pan was made in China, maybe the oil pan you mentioned is from same manufacturer that makes them for Holley? who knows?

I used these LS accessory drive brackets for PS and alternator, bolts included that worked out for me with no problems, had them anodized.
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Maybe they have some LT parts that could be of help with your build.
.
 

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Tim - The Northwest 1969 Camaro
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Thanks for the help and advice.

I have not bought the front accessory drive. I was thinking seriously about Hollys FEAD but now I am having second thoughts. They advertised the motor mounts I bought would fit an LT4 with a Detroit Speed Subframe. I think they might fit an LT1 engine, and Holly assumed they would fit an LT4.

For your view pleasure here are some more photos of the tube. It is an interesting piece of junk. The tube is 5/8" thin wall steel tubing. It has a heat shield between the motor mount bolts.



View attachment 290064


Under the heat shield, there is a rubber hose.

View attachment 290065



The ends have a modern day flared fitting. I do not know what you call this type. They are held on with a clip. Does anybody know the name of the fitting and where I may buy this type?
View attachment 290066




View attachment 290067

I heated one of the fittings with MAP gas. I was trying to get the fittings to separate from the tube.
It did not budge. The tube looks like it was bent with a pair of Vice Grips and a chisel punch. The bends are kinked and dented.

I thought about cutting the tube and installing a -10 AN fitting. I am afraid there is not enough straight tubing for me to side a tube nut on and use my flaring tool. I thought about cutting the motor mount and welding a round, half tube so the pipe will clear the motor mount. I could weaken the strength of the motor mount doing this.

I installed the motor in my car. The oil pan is three inches from the floor. Looks like I will need a
new oil pan. So, this old tube is not going to work anyway. The is oil pan looks like it has a check valve inside the oil pan where this tube is fastened.


View attachment 290068

The engine fits. So that is good. I have some room between the motor and the firewall. I think the hood will close.


View attachment 290069




View attachment 290070


It took three months to get the motor mounts. Mr. Dutton, I should have taken your advice and ordered a wiring harness from Speartech. I am still waiting for GM to make one.
That type of flare involves forged Unobtanium (think dying neutron star) and utilization of other esoteric tools which are unavailable to mere mortals. In other words I have no idea but scrap it for AN and call it good (don't forget the little fabric covered hose in the middle for flexibility - Unobtanium is extremely strong yet brittle).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That type of flare involves forged Unobtanium (think dying neutron star) and utilization of other esoteric tools which are unavailable to mere mortals. In other words I have no idea but scrap it for AN and call it good (don't forget the little fabric covered hose in the middle for flexibility - Unobtanium is extremely strong yet brittle).
Probably the best advice I got so far. 🍻
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Not sure this is the route you want to go in but if you decide to use the Holley pan this company makes a drain back kit.
I don't know if it'll work with oil pans from other companies? My Holley LS pan was made in China, maybe the oil pan you mentioned is from same manufacturer that makes them for Holley? who knows?

I used these LS accessory drive brackets for PS and alternator, bolts included that worked out for me with no problems, had them anodized.
View attachment 290085

Maybe they have some LT parts that could be of help with your build.
.
Thanks for the help. Do you know that I am cheap? I am stroking out over a $70.00 catch can. $230.00 for a hose would send me to the hospital.

Hmmm. Those brackets you mentioned fit a LT engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I am not sure that the catch can is a simple can. Somewhere in the system are check/PCV valve(s). I recommend the Holley part, this is no place for experimentation imho. Bad things can happen in supercharged engines if they are not properly vented.

I was able to use the stock LT truck pan but it was a truck build with a lot of ground clearance.

Don
So you think the plastic box is not hollow? I was hoping that what I am calling a check valve, that is inside the oil pan, was acting like a PCV valve. Allright, I will spend the money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The original oil pan holds 10 quarts of oil. The Holley and Top Street Performance pans both hold 6.1 quarts. I guess I need a huge external oil cooler to make up the difference. The aftermarket pans both have the dipstick on the driver side. The original has it on the passenger side. A new dip stick is required.

The original oil pan has an oil temperature sensor. The orange pentagon encompasses the connection. The aftermarket does not have a hole drilled in the pan.


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I am not complaining. This is what I like about this project.

I really need a new oil pan. The original one is too low. If I run over a Nutria Rat, I could flip the car.
 

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So you think the plastic box is not hollow? I was hoping that what I am calling a check valve, that is inside the oil pan, was acting like a PCV valve. Allright, I will spend the money.
Ya it could be. Point was to make sure before you start improvising and inventing. :) Maybe there is baffles in it, don’t know.

Don
 

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Thanks for the help. Do you know that I am cheap? I am stroking out over a $70.00 catch can. $230.00 for a hose would send me to the hospital.

Hmmm. Those brackets you mentioned fit a LT engine?
No they do not.
 

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The original oil pan holds 10 quarts of oil. The Holley and Top Street Performance pans both hold 6.1 quarts. I guess I need a huge external oil cooler to make up the difference. The aftermarket pans both have the dipstick on the driver side. The original has it on the passenger side. A new dip stick is required.

The original oil pan has an oil temperature sensor. The orange pentagon encompasses the connection. The aftermarket does not have a hole drilled in the pan.


View attachment 290104


I am not complaining. This is what I like about this project.

I really need a new oil pan. The original one is too low. If I run over a Nutria Rat, I could flip the car.
Pretty sure that is an oil level sensor. You dont need it.
Don
 
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