That is the drain for GMs version of a catch can. You can get a plug for it or there are several aftermarket alternatives. Mighty Mouse for one.
I think any swap system will require an oil pan change and it’s unlikely anyone else’s mounts would clear that drain tube. Similarly I am pretty sure any aftermarket accessory drive will not clear the GM catch can because you are adding a power steering pump that is not on the stock GM accessory drive.
Gotta pay to play Patrick…
That type of flare involves forged Unobtanium (think dying neutron star) and utilization of other esoteric tools which are unavailable to mere mortals. In other words I have no idea but scrap it for AN and call it good (don't forget the little fabric covered hose in the middle for flexibility - Unobtanium is extremely strong yet brittle).Thanks for the help and advice.
I have not bought the front accessory drive. I was thinking seriously about Hollys FEAD but now I am having second thoughts. They advertised the motor mounts I bought would fit an LT4 with a Detroit Speed Subframe. I think they might fit an LT1 engine, and Holly assumed they would fit an LT4.
For your view pleasure here are some more photos of the tube. It is an interesting piece of junk. The tube is 5/8" thin wall steel tubing. It has a heat shield between the motor mount bolts.
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Under the heat shield, there is a rubber hose.
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The ends have a modern day flared fitting. I do not know what you call this type. They are held on with a clip. Does anybody know the name of the fitting and where I may buy this type?
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I heated one of the fittings with MAP gas. I was trying to get the fittings to separate from the tube.
It did not budge. The tube looks like it was bent with a pair of Vice Grips and a chisel punch. The bends are kinked and dented.
I thought about cutting the tube and installing a -10 AN fitting. I am afraid there is not enough straight tubing for me to side a tube nut on and use my flaring tool. I thought about cutting the motor mount and welding a round, half tube so the pipe will clear the motor mount. I could weaken the strength of the motor mount doing this.
I installed the motor in my car. The oil pan is three inches from the floor. Looks like I will need a
new oil pan. So, this old tube is not going to work anyway. The is oil pan looks like it has a check valve inside the oil pan where this tube is fastened.
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The engine fits. So that is good. I have some room between the motor and the firewall. I think the hood will close.
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It took three months to get the motor mounts. Mr. Dutton, I should have taken your advice and ordered a wiring harness from Speartech. I am still waiting for GM to make one.
Opps, I forgot the H. Sorry Mr. DHutton.You’ll get it Patrick. You always do.
I had to smile when you replied to Don with “ Mr. Dutton”
Probably the best advice I got so far. 🍻That type of flare involves forged Unobtanium (think dying neutron star) and utilization of other esoteric tools which are unavailable to mere mortals. In other words I have no idea but scrap it for AN and call it good (don't forget the little fabric covered hose in the middle for flexibility - Unobtanium is extremely strong yet brittle).
Thanks for the help. Do you know that I am cheap? I am stroking out over a $70.00 catch can. $230.00 for a hose would send me to the hospital.Not sure this is the route you want to go in but if you decide to use the Holley pan this company makes a drain back kit.
I don't know if it'll work with oil pans from other companies? My Holley LS pan was made in China, maybe the oil pan you mentioned is from same manufacturer that makes them for Holley? who knows?
LT1, LT4 Wet Sump PCV Drain Back Kit - Schwartz PerformanceOur exclusive LT1 / LT4 PCV drain back kit allows the OEM PCV tank to be used with the Holley 302-20 LT wet sump oil pan.www.schwartzperformance.com
I used these LS accessory drive brackets for PS and alternator, bolts included that worked out for me with no problems, had them anodized.
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Maybe they have some LT parts that could be of help with your build.
LT PartsICT Billet has a huge inventory and great deals on LT engine parts, LT engine swap kits, LT parts, and a variety of other LT components and aftermarket automotive products!www.ictbillet.com
So you think the plastic box is not hollow? I was hoping that what I am calling a check valve, that is inside the oil pan, was acting like a PCV valve. Allright, I will spend the money.I am not sure that the catch can is a simple can. Somewhere in the system are check/PCV valve(s). I recommend the Holley part, this is no place for experimentation imho. Bad things can happen in supercharged engines if they are not properly vented.
I was able to use the stock LT truck pan but it was a truck build with a lot of ground clearance.
Ya it could be. Point was to make sure before you start improvising and inventing. Maybe there is baffles in it, don’t know.So you think the plastic box is not hollow? I was hoping that what I am calling a check valve, that is inside the oil pan, was acting like a PCV valve. Allright, I will spend the money.
No they do not.Thanks for the help. Do you know that I am cheap? I am stroking out over a $70.00 catch can. $230.00 for a hose would send me to the hospital.
Hmmm. Those brackets you mentioned fit a LT engine?
Pretty sure that is an oil level sensor. You dont need it.The original oil pan holds 10 quarts of oil. The Holley and Top Street Performance pans both hold 6.1 quarts. I guess I need a huge external oil cooler to make up the difference. The aftermarket pans both have the dipstick on the driver side. The original has it on the passenger side. A new dip stick is required.
The original oil pan has an oil temperature sensor. The orange pentagon encompasses the connection. The aftermarket does not have a hole drilled in the pan.
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I am not complaining. This is what I like about this project.
I really need a new oil pan. The original one is too low. If I run over a Nutria Rat, I could flip the car.