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I dropped my fresh 489 in and I was test fitting my new Hooker 2457s before I put back the old headers for break-in. I couldn't get both rear and front header bolt in. I would get the rear bolt threaded and then unable to get the front bolt in the head without it beginning to cross-thread.

Well, I finally figured out the bottom flange of the #2 pipe is hitting the ARP head bolt! So annoying! Anyone else have this issue? I suppose I will just grind down the flange to make it fit.





 

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Very common problem.

Most headers say "won't fit aluminum heads." That's their disclaimer that you'll have to grind the flange for clearance. Shouldn't take much.
 

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I had the same issue using ARP's with aluminum heads. The ARP bolts & washer are quite a bit taller than stock head bolts.

I mocked up the 2457's while on the engine stand. As mentioned you need to mark them and get out the die grinder. You'll likely encounter clearance problems on several of the head bolts
 

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:yes: I guess this is the fun 'I built it myself part"!
Yep, I used studs with the AFR heads lots of Spots to grind, with the angle grinder it does not take too long.
As mentioned use a Sharpe too mark the angle of the grind, all part of the fun :thumbsup:
 

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Hi Mike
One of the Sets of Headers I tried on my 427 w/ Stock, Rctangular Port, Cast Iron Heads were the Hooker 2457's.
I had bought them Painted and found them to hit my ARP Bolts in 2 places on each side. I thought it was below #3,5 4 & 6 Exhaust Ports.

Wound up Going to Doug's D-320 Headers and had No Clearance issues at all and a 3/8" Head Flange plate.

Look for Contact in 2 Places with the Hookers on each side.

Do you have Power Steering on your 68 ? I could not get the 2457's in without hitting really bad.

Timmy
 

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the clearance on the Dougs headers looks great. The "old" style Hooker 2457's #5 tube used to sweep back like that.

Any issue getting the factory Z-bar installed with the Dougs?
Its TIGHT with the 2457's. :yes:
 

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the clearance on the Dougs headers looks great. The "old" style Hooker 2457's #5 tube used to sweep back like that.

Any issue getting the factory Z-bar installed with the Dougs?
Its TIGHT with the 2457's. :yes:
Hi Tom
I saw the 2205's from Hooker which are the Super Comps had #5 Primary Tube come out and over #7, the few things that I liked about the Doug's D-320 was 3/8" Head Flange, 14 Gauge Primary Tubes and the Collector/ Reducer 3 Bolt Flange had the 2 bottom bolts at like at the 4 & 8 O'Clock position and the 3rd at 12 O'Clock position for Ground Clearance.

I also am in the process of installing a 700R4 to replace the TH350. Had to modify the TH400 BB Crossmember so I do not have a Z-bar, for the Standard Trans if that is what you are thinking of.

Maybe that's why I had several Members suggest the Hooker 2457's would fit my Car, one does not have Power Steering and one has NO Clearance to his P/S Box,
My Doug's fit great. I can just get my Hand thru for the Oil Filter.

Thanks
Timmy
 

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I would also go this route 1st before grinding on the headers.
Rob - I don't think adding gaskets will help in this case - (unless you add about 5-6 gaskets)

this is the fix - photo from previous post

this works - just don't get carried away with the grinder and get into the mating surface at the port
 

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Rob - I don't think adding gaskets will help in this case - (unless you add about 5-6 gaskets)

this is the fix - photo from previous post

this works - just don't get carried away with the grinder and get into the mating surface at the port
Got it :yes::thumbsup: The post with the pics was not showing when I posted my response as that post was being edited.
 

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There is another solution; swap out those damn ARP bolts. Seriously. What possible advantage could there be to using them. All they do is reduce the size of the head. Your torque wrench will like it if you use a larger socket.
 

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Hi Tim,

Those Doug's are nice. I do have a Z Bar and a Lee 800 PS box that I'm trying to squeeze in there. I previously mocked up my old 'no-name' headers with the box and they fit. Hoping I can squeeze in the 2457s in there before I reassemble the front clip and clutch assembly. It would be good to know now, whether I have to add a few washers under the motor mount while the car is in it's current stage.

I don't think I have that much to grind off though, just a 1/16 or so, but I could be wrong. When I look at bolt hole on the flange and where it lines up against the head(781s), it's only a 1/16 off, if that.

Regarding the passenger side, thanks for the pictures!!! :hurray: I am also installing new fuel lines from the Right Stuff,, any chance you have another pic of that side which includes the line to the pump? I just want to see how the routing is against the frame. Thanks if you do!

@Fred--- dude! I spent good money on those ARP bolts :) And I'll finally have an engine with matching hardware!:thumbsup:

Thanks for all the info guys! I'll let you know how it turns out.


Hi Tom
I saw the 2205's from Hooker which are the Super Comps had #5 Primary Tube come out and over #7, the few things that I liked about the Doug's D-320 was 3/8" Head Flange, 14 Gauge Primary Tubes and the Collector/ Reducer 3 Bolt Flange had the 2 bottom bolts at like at the 4 & 8 O'Clock position and the 3rd at 12 O'Clock position for Ground Clearance.

I also am in the process of installing a 700R4 to replace the TH350. Had to modify the TH400 BB Crossmember so I do not have a Z-bar, for the Standard Trans if that is what you are thinking of.

Maybe that's why I had several Members suggest the Hooker 2457's would fit my Car, one does not have Power Steering and one has NO Clearance to his P/S Box,
My Doug's fit great. I can just get my Hand thru for the Oil Filter.

Thanks
Timmy
 

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@Fred--- dude! I spent good money on those ARP bolts :) And I'll finally have an engine with matching hardware!:thumbsup:

Thanks for all the info guys! I'll let you know how it turns out.
Matching stuff is a great feeling!:thumbsup: I ended up making my stuff match by removing nearly all of my last ARP kit.
Suggestion: The lower row of bolts are well hidden from view. Maybe you can just change those. Just a thought.
 

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Hi Mike norcal 68
I don’t want to take away from this Post for
Hooker 2457 flange hitting ARP head bolt”
so I will start another Post :
“Installing new fuel lines for 69 SSRS Big Block with Headers”</SPAN>
Timmy from Trumbull, CT
 
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