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Discussion Starter #1
One more thing in a never ending line of stuff that doesn
t fit.
After 2 hours of manipulation new 1 3/4 hooker headers onto the 406, and even with the motor sitting in the subframe in the middle of the garage, I got the bolts in, and of course the front bolt and surrounding castiong is tight against the header, and the header flange isn't even tight against the head.

I guess that means either grinding the hell out of the corner of the steering box, or pounding a dent into the ceramic coated header tube on the $700 top of the line Hooker header, right?

Help AGAIN, thanks
RJ
 

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Re: hooker header issue

A couple of things to check.....correct engine frame stands and motor mounts, attach transmission and mount so it sits on crossmember to keep engine from leaning back....

A chainsaw sharpening bit in a Dremel will go through the ps box like it's nothing.

ah ah ah ah CHOOO*dynatech*OOOOOOO
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: hooker header issue

Correct mounts, but aftermarket steering box from Rock River as was advised in a post about putting power steering on my 69. Absolutely refuse to ding the ceramic coated headers. Read where a guy put washers/spacers between the block and the motor mount to in effect raise up the motor a tad to get more clearance. Said he added 1/4" to 3/8" and he said he did it on driver side only. I could see maybe doing both sides, but not one only.
Not going to return the headers as much as it pisses me off. It looks like it will take alot of grinding to box, and it's right where the bolt is too. Might even have to grind the bolt or find one with a smaller head. PLUS, I'll heve to get the header back out in order to get the steering box out again.

RJ
 

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Re: hooker header issue

Can you install a buttonhead screw and gain room?
If you lifted the engine and shoved it over to the pass side, place the header in place, then swing back the engine and attach the header, will it fit?

I learned to install drvr header first, then the engine.
 

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Re: hooker header issue

I'm waiting for Steiner to sneeze me up an LS motor...

Can't do that but I can poop you out a straight six.
 

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Re: hooker header issue

I just installed the same set in my 67 SS 350 car. Has stock steering box, and fits great. Did have to put them in before I dropped in the block but fits nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: hooker header issue

Cornr of steering box is the issue, not the bolt. Needs grinding. I tried taking the four bolts out of the cover, figured I could take the cover off and then move to workbench and grind away as necessary. Big mistake, Cover apparently doesn't come off. It did move up about 1/2" and stopped, bolt in center doesn't seen to move. Also to my great glee, I noticed there is an o-ring under the cover that has now come loose and absolutely no way to get it back in its place. Learned that I know nothing about power steering pumps. Help please.

RJ
 

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Re: hooker header issue

If it's old it would make a good $20 core exchange on a third gen box now.....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re: hooker header issue

Has maybe 500 miles on it. Brand new. I guess my question at this point is how do I get that o-ring back on place, and get the cover back on. I suppese I could remove the o-ring and silicone the cover back dow.
Right?
J
 

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Re: hooker header issue

Use some petro jelly to 'finger' the O-ring back into place on the cover.
Patience is the key. Center bolt is threaded to the cover, Loosen locknut and unscrew the cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Re: hooker header issue

Everett, I have very little of that left, haha. Does that o-ring fit in a groove on the underside of the cover? If I can't get in there, can i silicone it as I said?
RJ
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Re: hooker header issue

My p/s box is a replacement. Had manual steering b4 and went the route sugested in the forum. Bought 3rd gen box I think it is, must have more meat in it around the cover area.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: hooker header issue

Okay,
Took the box back off, got the 0-ring back in place, replaced one of the bigger flanged cover bolts with a small hex head header bolt of same thread size and length, ground down the whole corner of the cover and box asmuch as I could, and repainted the whole enchilada. Tomorrow will get the box back on as well as the header, but i expect that I will have to dimple the header tube some. I was thinking of useng a big socket against the tube to make a nicer rounded dimple. I/m hoping that the ceramic coating is like powdercoating in that it can bend without cracking. Anyone know?
 

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Re: hooker header issue

Hate to see you do that. If the frame is out, look at the + or -1" mounting plates to scoot the engine front or back. Worked for me.

Also, when it comes time to seal them, I used a double gasket and never had a leak problem even though they were not even close to flat on the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Re: hooker header issue

Motor is sitting in subframe, out of car. Not sure what you mean by + or - 1" mounting plates.

RJ
 

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I've got 2131's with ceramic coating and stock manual steering box, had to dimple them 12 years ago and they look just fine. No chips, cracks, or discoloration. Burned on oil and coolant from a blown head gasket is a different story.

I placed the headers on the ground wrapped in a moving blanket. Used 4x4 and 2x4 blocks under the tube to support it. Then a 3/4" or larger socket, gave it a decent whack with a heavy hammer and all was good. I did ~1/4-3/8" indentation.
 
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