[arizona1234]

Hi, I have been trying to figure out my issue with my horn assembly in the steering column. The only way for me to get it to work is to remove the pin that attaches to the spring and to replace with a metal substitute (nail). Unfortunate, this is causing a short (shocking/spark). I don’t understand if there is a ground issue? The harness is hooked up properly and the horn relay and horn works when the nail is present, otherwise no. Same length and everything.

 

[fairfax1000]

Hi, I have been trying to figure out my issue with my horn assembly in the steering column. The only way for me to get it to work is to remove the pin that attaches to the spring and to replace with a metal substitute (nail). Unfortunate, this is causing a short (shocking/spark). I don’t understand if there is a ground issue? The harness is hooked up properly and the horn relay and horn works when the nail is present, otherwise no. Same length and everything.

Perhaps you could try this old school bumper sticker advice…”Horn broken, watch for middle finger.”
Year?
Tilt?
Non Tilt?
Got any pictures?

 

[arizona1234]

Haha. 1968, no tilt, originally column shift. It’s a new turn signal switch as well and new horn relay. I’ve watch the videos on the assembly and every seems right. I think using the nail is somehow grounding it? I left it installed for two days (horn relay wasn’t on) and the battery was completely dead.

 

[Worn Out Welder]

You do understand that the horn button is only waiting to be grounded?
The horn relies on a low current ground to connect the bus current to the horn.
It sounds like you have a parasitic draw on the battery.
A shot in the dark is to pull all the fuses and see if it helps on the battery drain.
Provided you know the battery is in good condition.
Just thoughts….I’m prone to be misunderstood, do to my misunderstanding of the problem 😆

 

[arizona1234]

Yeah I understand. I didn’t have a draw
Until I rigged the horn. I hooked it up and pushed the horn button and actually got shocked. So something has to be wrong

 

[Worn Out Welder]

You’re a better ground.
path of lest resistance.
I would be looking at contacting areas of the column.
Body grounds….it’s a bit subjective.

 

[jimsl78]

Yeah I understand. I didn’t have a draw
Until I rigged the horn. I hooked it up and pushed the horn button and actually got shocked. So something has to be wrong

I cant see 12 VDC giving a shock unless you touched it with your tongue. Most likely the shock was a fluke from built up static electicity and the car was grounding through you.
BTW if a nail is making contact then I would try cleaning the contact pin and grounding point with something mildly abrasive so all surfaces shine, and wipe with contact cleaner or alcohol before assembly. Over time contact surfaces can deteriorate and become resistive.

 

[arizona1234]

Does the steering column just ground under the dash? It’s hot visible sparks when pushed. Or is there a separate ground I should check?

 

[SOA-Nova]

Does the steering column just ground under the dash? It’s hot visible sparks when pushed. Or is there a separate ground I should check?

Others might have more specific but I would think the column coupler should have a strap (electrical) connection between the two parts of the coupler that are electrically isolated by the rubber joint.

On the right picture there is a strap connected to a short piece of wire and then the other end another flat piece of strap is connected to it and then under the other bolt.

As far as the shock, it might not have been from the ground being made for the horn relay but when the connnection was lifted. When a coil is grounded with th one side already at the positive voltage you should not feel any shock but when the ground get's lifted and you are in contact with this ground wire then you will feel a back voltage that gets created from the coil collapsing just like what happens with an ignition coil but on a smaller scale.

One could add a diode across the coil.

diode on relay coil - Google Search

Jim

 

[arizona1234]

Ok, well ever since I hooked up this horn setup I have a draw on my battery. It’s completely dead. Trying to figure out why there would be a parasitic draw? This is the joint, looks like new brass someone installed so the ground should be good no?

 

[SOA-Nova]

This is the joint, looks like new brass someone installed so the ground should be good no?

First off, PERFECT with taking the extra large picture. Too many folks post a picture but it does not normally show the detail needed. WONDERFUL.

Anyway the U shaped stamped coupler going from the one spot at the 9:00 position and then under the joint to then be at the other spot at the 3:00 position is not the ground strap to electrically connect both halves of the steering coupler (sometimes called a rag joint) but the connection should be on the other side of the coupler.

.

This strap or wire connects spots between the 2 halves of the joint. Basically it connects the 12:00 position to the 9:00 position or from other combination of spots like the 9:00 to 6:00 or 6:00 to 3:00 or 3:00 to 12:00

Jim

 

[SOA-Nova]

Ok, well ever since I hooked up this horn setup I have a draw on my battery. It’s completely dead. Trying to figure out why there would be a parasitic draw ?

Do you have a meter that you can measure DC amp draw ?

I wonder if the new horn relay has an issue.

I've had issues with 2 reproduction horn relay/key buzzer assemblies for my 68 Chevy II Nova.

Just because things are new does not mean they are right.

Jim

 

[arizona1234]

I do have an amp meter, so I just tested it and I have a 1.0 mA draw. Is this significant?

So this is stupid but I forgot I reattached the battery, accidentally touched the metal horn button cap to the center rod and just got a full 12V up the arm. There has to be a major short right? There should be power running through the center steering axle?

 

[arizona1234]

So I guess the shock is from the spring rod when grounded? Is this right? When I ground the rod it’s sparks and the horn relay clicks

 

[jimsl78]

Any time contacts are opened / closed you get a certain amount of "arcing", the higher the amps the bigger the arc. so the sparks your describing might just be this?
For the life of me I cant understand how one gets shock from a 12v circuit. Guess I learned something new. Any time I got shocks it came from the ignition coil or spark plug wires. Perhaps some folks are just more sensitive than others?

 

[fairfax1000]

I do have an amp meter, so I just tested it and I have a 1.0 mA draw. Is this significant?

So this is stupid but I forgot I reattached the battery, accidentally touched the metal horn button cap to the center rod and just got a full 12V up the arm. There has to be a major short right? There should be power running through the center steering axle?

1.0 is the enormous. The maximum standard draw in todays cars is approximately .050.

 

[jwbavalon]

If it is 1mA, which is 0.001A, that not significant. If it is 1A, that is significant.

 

[arizona1234]

I guess what I’m wondering is the ground bad. The shock ran up my entire arm to my neck. I’m reading 1mA is not much. I’ve checked multiple times, it’s 1mA

 

[fairfax1000]

I guess what I’m wondering is the ground bad. The shock ran up my entire arm to my neck. I’m reading 1mA is not much. I’ve checked multiple times, it’s 1mA

Take a picture or 3 of your meter and the setting it’s on.

 

[SOA-Nova]

I do have an amp meter, so I just tested it and I have a 1.0 mA draw. Is this significant?

So this is stupid but I forgot I reattached the battery, accidentally touched the metal horn button cap to the center rod and just got a full 12V up the arm. There has to be a major short right? There should be power running through the center steering axle?

If I have 0.001A of draw then this is nothing

If I measured 0.01A current draw then I would think the draw is from a clock/memory circuit of an aftermarket radio or an aftermarket engine control module.

On my 68 Chevy II Nova, at most I've gotten 0.01A draw and this is due to the aftermarket Pioneer radio under the seat. With it not connected I get 0.00A draw.

When I've measured other cars, if I have 0.03 or higher, then this requires the car to be started and driven for a few miles to bring the voltage back up or be put on a battery tender if it is to be sitting for weeks at a time.

Try this, charge up the battery with it not connected to the car and then after taking the charger off, maybe about 4 hours later take a voltage reading and it should be around 12.5 or so. Now come back a day or two later and see if it's the same. If it's dropped to 11V or so, then the battery is toast.

NEXT:

How did you figure out it was a full 12V up your arm ?.

Do you get the same shock if you go under the hood and touch the battery positive terminal ?.

Maybe too, do an amperage draw test between the horn wire and a ground and see what you read. If you are getting shocked by a potential of 12V at the horn wire and your body, one should be able to get a meter reading of this.

A major short should blow fusible links unless there are none on the car between the battery and the short. If there are no fusible links then a dead short should be melting some insulation off of some wiring.

Jim