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Discussion Starter #1
Finalizing my electrical system for my rebuild. Why is there such a drastic cost different between the various horn relays ???
 

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As with most parts the market price is driven by top end where you find exotic date correct NOS, or refurbished/restored verses the over-the-counter replacement market pricing.

Since this part was designed/meant to be normal service replaceable item and has a major role in the vehicles electrical and charging system, it is common at the parts counters from various suppliers. A scan of RockAuto for a 69 Chevrolet has four listed from 15 to 40 bucks. And An AC/DELCO listed for 70. (see note above about exotic.)

On the over the counter replacement pricing - the "imports" run in the 20 buck neighborhood, Made in the USA and higher quality Canadian (aka more metal, less plastic) 20 to 40 ish bucks is standard. I tend to buy Made in the USA when I can so I wouldn't flinch paying 30 bucks for one, and it should last 20 25 years under normal use unless your heavy hand is always on the horn the second the light turns green. >:)

So if you are looking for numbers matching or NOS be prepared to spend $$$, but if looking for visual correct stamping, embossed cap GM built AC/DELCO then $70.00 will get you one, but an AirTex/Wells is $14.00 which will get the job done, and last longer than you most likely will need it.

Brian
 

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Its like every thing else. . . .various price points on same product determined by the manufacturer in many cases and a middle man. The same steering box with a Camaro vendor is over $250. . . .at Autozone $116. It pays to shop around. Just because a product is made over seas does not mean it is better . . . . look at all the foreign car companies cars we buy and even though they are made here the profit goes to the homebase company!!!! I try to buy American company products when ever I can. I have never bought a foreign car company car in my 65 cars owned. . . .just an old American guy talkin
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the tips. I still have my original that has been out of use for more years than I like to admit. Any tips on checking it's condition ??
 

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Sure Mark - You can bench test the relay function with a 12volt power supply and then grounding the horn lead, the relay will audibly click when it closes the circuit. And with a multi-meter you can test continuity through the power routing portion of the relay.

The points on the relay if found to be in rough shape can be cleaned up with a few passes of nail-file emery board.

If in less than show condition the metal embossed cap can be carefully removed, soaked in evaporust then polished and then reassembled.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sure Mark - You can bench test the relay function with a 12volt power supply and then grounding the horn lead, the relay will audibly click when it closes the circuit. And with a multi-meter you can test continuity through the power routing portion of the relay.

The points on the relay if found to be in rough shape can be cleaned up with a few passes of nail-file emery board.

If in less than show condition the metal embossed cap can be carefully removed, soaked in evaporust then polished and then reassembled.

Brian
Thanks Brian. Great info ..
 
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