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Discussion Starter #1
I just replaced my steering wheel on my 69. I put everything back together, reconnected the battery, pushed the button and got it to "honk" 3 times and then just clicks from the relay I think. The sounds became faiter and faiter and distorted on the 3 honk.
I assume all was done correctly, it did work, but I just get clicks now. The battery is not fully charged, but it has enought juice to start the car and stuff, so that should be fine.

I only have 1 horn on the drivers side for now. I tested horn buy disconnecting the wire on the horn (green one), left it bolted to car and I jumped positive batt lead to that location (where is gree wire was connected) and I got nothing.

Q1: was this the correct testing procedure?
Q2: Is my horn dead now?
Q3: another coincidance? Change wheel and horn dies, almost at the same time?

Thanks!


[This message has been edited by mikestr (edited 03-08-2002).]

[This message has been edited by mikestr (edited 03-08-2002).]
 

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If you jumped 12volts directly to the horn terminal and got nothing, then you don't have a good ground. The horn makes ground thru it's base. Remove the horn and scratch the paint a little where it's located and clean (wire brush)the horn's base as well. If you hear a click on the horn relay, then your steering instal should be OK.

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Our affair with Camaros is a live sentence without the possibility of parole. www.geocities.com/c68ss http://home.coqui.net/borench
 

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Discussion Starter #3
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ORENCH:
If you jumped 12volts directly to the horn terminal and got nothing, then you don't have a good ground. The horn makes ground thru it's base. Remove the horn and scratch the paint a little where it's located and clean (wire brush)the horn's base as well. If you hear a click on the horn relay, then your steering instal should be OK.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I checked for ground. I used a test light to do this. I clamped the negative to the horn base and went to the battery positive and the test light lit up. Just for good measure I did scrath the surface on both sides of the connection and still get the click from the steering wheel. With the direct connection scenario I get nothing.

I also gave the horn some taps with the end of a screw driver, it faitly honked a couple of times then nothing. When I took the horn off I gave it a good shake and I hear little rattling noises inside.

I was under the impression that the relay is on the drivers side on the rad support not in the horn.

Any other suggestions?
 

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did it work before u changed the wheel i dunno for sure but i would try a horn or read ne other posts on this
 

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The relay is in fact in the rad support/drivers side. With the test light, check for voltage presense at the wire connection to the horn. Ask somebody to push the steering button on the steering wheel while you check for voltage. If there is 12volts (I personnaly prefer a volt meter) at the wire to the horn and you got good ground, then IMO your horn unit is faulty. If you don't have any voltage to the horn while pushing the steering button, then the relay isn't receiving the supply voltage it needs to transfer it to the horn, it's just receiving voltage to it's coil and ground from the steering.

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Our affair with Camaros is a live sentence without the possibility of parole. www.geocities.com/c68ss http://home.coqui.net/borench

[This message has been edited by ORENCH (edited 03-08-2002).]
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I bought a $15 horn for testing, works fine. My original horn is dead.

Thanks all for your help!
 

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Original horns are notorious for failing. I have a box full of dead ones. Some times you can save a dead one by soaking in wd-40. Rebuilding is possible but only worth the effort for numbers perfect cars with matching date codes as it is very difficult.
-Mark.
 
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