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Discussion Starter #1
I'm transplanting an LS1 into my 1969 and I need a wire that is +12v in both run and start position. Can I simply wire both the purple wire and resistance wire together to get this "hot in run and start" wire?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok, cool, that would make it easy. I'll give it a try, the only thing was that the car originally had this wire conencted to nothing (go figure) but it ran so I just took the wire that it had to the coil and tried using that but when I tried to start it the motor cranked but the fuel pump lost power. I will try and wire the red cloth covered wire to the "hot in run and start" wire on the LS1 and see if that works better.

thanks a bunch for the reply
 

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ok, I did some more testing and you're right it is hot in both position, but I did notice that connectivity it momentarily lost going from run to start and I suspect that this is causing the computer to restart thus the fuel pump loses power. Why its not coming back on and running, I'm not sure, but do you know if this momentary connectivity loss is normal? Or will a new ignition switch possibly fix this?

thanks again
 

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A momentary loss of continuity is normal and a new ign switch of the same type won't correct it.

You might look into adding an oil pressure sending unit with a switch inside it to turn on the fuel pump, a four-wire connector, or for grins, temporaily install a toggle switch for the fuel pump to see if the engine continues to run.

Or for all those accessory requirements, maybe a time delay to OFF relay. This route, you could chose the delay time to OFF and keep those circuits running with interuption of power.
 

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thanks for the help, I was affraid that would be the answer, short term I will do this "install a toggle switch for the fuel pump to see if the engine continues to run" this does seem to work, but its a swtich to all the LS1 "hot in run and start" connections, but for now that will work so I can get the rest of systems done. I like the oil pressure switch idea, thats clever.


thanks again
 

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You could also connect your IGN wire to a relay and install a capacitor accross it - say 10uF. That should keep the relay engaged for a 1/2 second or so to hold it through the drop out.
 

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You could also connect your IGN wire to a relay and install a capacitor accross it - say 10uF. That should keep the relay engaged for a 1/2 second or so to hold it through the drop out.
I was going to suggest this idea, or a time delay to OFF relay supplied by ignition voltage.
 
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