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Discussion Starter #1
I have put my EFI project on hold and have moved on to my new A-Arms. I have the drivers side disassembled and I'm ready to install the new Arms. My question is on the shims on the upper A-Arms. Should I put the same amount of shims in that were there before

(4-front, 3-back), or does it matter, since it has to be aligned when I'm done.
 

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I would start with the shims that are in it. You can set camber easily with a level but caster is a little more difficult. How far to the alignment shop? Could be a wicked ride.
 

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While it may be obvious, after you complete the installation and lower the car putting full weight on the suspension you'll want to move it sufficiently to let the front suspenson settle before making any measurements.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's less than a mile to the alignment shop.
On another note, wondering what the little tubes of silicone grease that came with the arms are for. Nowhere in the instructions does it indicate what these are used for. All of the bushings and ball joints have Zirk grease fittings.
 

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It's less than a mile to the alignment shop.
On another note, wondering what the little tubes of silicone grease that came with the arms are for. Nowhere in the instructions does it indicate what these are used for. All of the bushings and ball joints have Zirk grease fittings.
Assembly grease, put it in and around your bushings.
 

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On another note, wondering what the little tubes of silicone grease that came with the arms are for. Nowhere in the instructions does it indicate what these are used for. All of the bushings and ball joints have Zirk grease fittings.
Likely grease for the poly A arm bushing (non petroleum based). Put liberally on the inside of the bushings before install.


Moving forward you will need to use this type of grease when you lube the A arms. It can be purchased in grease gun tubes. "Green" grease is also compatible with poly bushings and is low cost and typically available at most auto part stores
 

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Also check if Hotchkis has recommended Street alignment specs. I used Global West and the Tubular arms came with their specs. I drove to the alignment shop with no shims. Funny thing is the mechanic tells me we don't have those shims LOL. I had 2 bags of extra shims (new) I took with me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
We ll this has been a tough job. All done except there are no big block header gaskets available till Monday.
If anyone is considering doing this. I would enlist some help. It's a battle by yourself. Came out pretty good.
 

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Id put two 1/8” shims on each bolt. For an initial setting. Re check alignment after a few months or a year & monitor front ride height. If the front springs settle, the ride height will drop & even 1/2” can change the toe in setting due to bump steer. The car will toe out & wander.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Id put two 1/8” shims on each bolt. For an initial setting. Re check alignment after a few months or a year & monitor front ride height. If the front springs settle, the ride height will drop & even 1/2” can change the toe in setting due to bump steer. The car will toe out & wander.
I put the shims back in as they were before I started. Three in front two in the back all 1/8". I'll drive it a bit before I have it aligned. I used the big block springs that were in there. I really don't want the front any lower than it is right now.
 
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