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Just eliminate it and connect the wires that are on the buss together
 

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Or just remove the trigger wire? Unless you're trying to remove the remnants of the system too, then you'll want to do what John suggested.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rather than assume anything about the situation, perhaps we should ask why the OP wants to eliminate the horn relay?

Once that is understood, good advice can then be given. That information would help determine if the horn and relay really is non-essential (such as an off road car) or if it really would be considered still essential (a street car).

The technical question is easily answered as has already been stated by other replies.



Sometimes this site can be really helpful, sometimes it feels like people get on here to belittle others. the person that made this comment has the right idea. Ask why I want my horn relay gone then you can offer advice or criticize my logic. The reason I want to eliminate the relay is I dont like the way it looks and I figured I could use something else for my, some type of new technology. My car had problems yesterday, and originally we thought it was the relay draining the car preventing it from starting. We discovered it was my ignition switch, but I thought maybe I should eliminate things that could have me on the side of the road in the future. Excuse me for trying to be forward thinking.
 

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Come on now guys....WOW :rolleyes:
OP asked a question and only needed an answer. Glad he didn't ask about drag slicks too.
Many states issue Classic or Historic plates to these cars with no inspection at all (Maryland is one of them) I don't have to pass anything, no smog, not brakes and lights checked, ETC.
PLEASE stop reading into what someone is asking and give your opinion; maybe next time ask WHY they are wanting to remove, add, ETC and then help if you can.

Thanks....just keep it civil :beers:
 

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And, to be helpful I will throw my opinion into the ring. I see what you are trying to do. I dont think the horn relay will cause you much trouble. Its a fairly robust item. Now, right next to it is the voltage regulator. Eliminating that would be a worthwhile endeavor. Whether you replace it with a newer solid state unit, or replace the old alternator with a modern, internally regulated one, you will notice improvements in charging, brighter headlights at idle, and a more reliable charging circuit.
 

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Anthony, as Doug points out a junction block will work to eliminate the horn relay, but it will eliminate the horn as well which could cause you inspection issues. If you have a good functioning horn relay, I'd suggest you leave it as is. You can't eliminate all the components in a car that "might" cause you an issue, if you did, you wouldn't have a functioning vehicle. I don't think a junction block will look any better or cleaner than a horn relay.

If you learn how all the systems in these first gen Camaros work, they become pretty easy to trouble shoot and if maintained well, they are pretty reliable vehicles overall.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Anthony, as Doug points out a junction block will work to eliminate the horn relay, but it will eliminate the horn as well which could cause you inspection issues. If you have a good functioning horn relay, I'd suggest you leave it as is. You can't eliminate all the components in a car that "might" cause you an issue, if you did, you wouldn't have a functioning vehicle. I don't think a junction block will look any better or cleaner than a horn relay.

If you learn how all the systems in these first gen Camaros work, they become pretty easy to trouble shoot and if maintained well, they are pretty reliable vehicles overall.
Well, I want to at least go with a more updated type of relay that doesnt look like a relic.



And, to be helpful I will throw my opinion into the ring. I see what you are trying to do. I dont think the horn relay will cause you much trouble. Its a fairly robust item. Now, right next to it is the voltage regulator. Eliminating that would be a worthwhile endeavor. Whether you replace it with a newer solid state unit, or replace the old alternator with a modern, internally regulated one, you will notice improvements in charging, brighter headlights at idle, and a more reliable charging circuit.

I think my original vr is gone, with the ls2 its in the alternator I think. I just wanna take my car as far into the future as possible and just have it be super reliable. These are my main goals.


Anthony, as you know by now that a working horn is required to pass a state inspection. But to answer your question and to keep the wiring neat remove the relay and wiring. You can connect all the 12v hot wires to a battery junction block. Connect all the grounds to the radiator support using star washers. Here is the battery junction block. http://www.camarocentral.com/1967_1971_Battery_Cable_Junction_Block_With_Nut_p/wir-341.htm

California sucks in many ways but one way its cool is my car doesnt need ANY inspections. I want a horn, however I wanna upgrade it if possible, like my lights are hid something along those lines of an upgrade for the horn.
 

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Anthony, then you can remove the original horn relay, and connect all the wires that were terminated together there on the buss bar of the horn relay onto a terminal block like Doug posted a link for or another one of your choice if you find something else you like instead.

In order to still keep the horn functional, you could purchase and install a relay of sufficient size (amperage) that will handle the current the horns draw and trigger this new "horn relay" from the horn button on your steering wheel. The new "horn relay" can be hidden wherever you want, the closer to the horns the better. It's just a matter of wiring to the new hidden "horn relay" location. The other remaining terminals on the old horn relay are what handle the horn function itself and the key buzzer. Here is a link to a photo that details the original horn relay connections: http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz77/ztevans79/Camaro/Horn_relay_Picturewtext.jpg

This would give you the added reliability of removing the "relic" original relay as you called it, but still have a functional horn. If you want even more reliability, replace the fusible link shown in the right side of the photo with a self resetting circuit breaker if your car still has a fusible link, again it just needs to be of high enough amperage. The best of both worlds in both cases. ;)
 

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The AAW Classic Update Harness eliminates the OEM horn relay and uses a relay under the dash for the horn.

You can easily do the same by adding a relay triggered by the horn button
 

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Anthony:

You are correct: "Sometimes this site can be really helpful, sometimes it feels like people get on here to belittle others."
You asked a perfectly legitimate question for a good reason.

Thank goodness John gets it. I think he gave you the best answer. I am not a fan of throwing out the old harness for a restoration, but for a resto mod like you are doing, you might want to consider a new wiring harness that will acomodate your LS swap as well as the other upgrades. Your car is looking good.
 
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