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Can anyone tell me how to remove the rear hard brake line from a 1968 Camaro with automatic transmission. I have the entire line unbolted from the frame and proportioning valve. I am installing a CPP front drum to power disc conversion kit and I need to fix the line as I put a kink in the rear line when bending it towards the proportioning valve. I was going to remove the line; splice a piece into it and re-install it. It looks like it is impossible to remove the line even though 80% of it is free from the rear on up to the bend in the frame where it goes up past the steering box and up to the master cylinder. Should I just cut the line near the frame rail and install a new piece that way?

Any help is appreciated from those who have faced similar issues.

Thanks,
Alan
 

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It is best no to piece brake lines. It has a flair nut at both ends. There is a bracket that holds the two lines " rear, and the front cross over" under the master cylinder. Looks kinda like a heater hose bracket with a rubber insert. It then goes up to the distribution block.
 

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Yes, you do NOT want to splice brake lines. If you are talking about the long line from the top of the axle full length to the valve, you should be able to. I just did this on a full size and it was easier than it looked.
 

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You should just replace that line. If u get the car elevated, you can loosen the subframe mounts. This will give you the extra space to turn the line and get it out.

This how I do it:
1. Jack up rear of car.
2. Place 2 stands under axle.
3. Place jack under subframe, and elevate.
3. Place jack stands at each corner of body. I use location just outside of where front subframe mount attaches. It is a fortified area. I put a small block of wood with rubber on it to protect underbody.
4. Keep the jack under the subframe for support.
5. Loosen rear subframe bolts.
6. Loosen front subframe bolts.
Note: drop jack incrementally to lower subframe...just enough to get line out.
7. Disconnect the brake line and pull it out.
8. Tighten up subframe bolts....i think they are 80 lbs-ft torque.

You could also install a stock hold off valve. This goes on the subframe just below the driver door. It allows you to install a 2 piece brake line. It's much easier to install/remove.

It also improves braking by keeping rears from locking up. I notice better braking on cars with 4 drums as well.
 

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Does your new brake kit include a proportioning valve? The suggestion above to install a proportioning valve as pictured above (hold-off valve or metering valve is located at the MC and not on the subframe) would allow the two section line. Check out the article linked below for a description of the brake valves and their function to see what you need and if your kit provides them. You will need some form of proportioning valve if going to disc/drum. You could also install an adjustable proportioning valve as well. Note that the later combination valve (see linked article) provides all the functions of the separate valves, but does not provide adjustable proportioning.

Camaro Brake Valves
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone for responding. I'll take a look at all the responses and let you know where I end up. Many thanks!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
To clarify - yes, this is the long hard line that goes from on top of the rear axle to the proportioning valve at the master cylinder.
 

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The hold off valve is on the sub frame like mentioned. All cars did not come with them. I have never loosened a frame to get a line on. The 2 piece line is simple.
 

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It looks like a stock replacement valve. He needs the one on the frame too, if he doesn't already have it.
 
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The hold off valve is on the sub frame like mentioned. All cars did not come with them. I have never loosened a frame to get a line on. The 2 piece line is simple.
Wrong. The hold-off valve is under the MC. The proportioning valve is on the subframe. This misinformation is constantly being submitted on forums.
Read CRG tech articles for correct data: Camaro Brake Valves
Very few vendors refer to components correctly, which only adds to the problem.
 

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Scott is correct.

There are aftermarket adjustable prop valves like Wilwood that typically mount with a bracket to the MC. I actually have a Wilwood Inline Prop Valve mounted to the frame rail on my 66 Chevelle

When using on of these with 4 wheel disc brakes you do not need the rear brake residual pressure valve.

If using the adjustable prop valve with disc/drum you will still need a 10 psi residual pressure valve or the rear brakes will never work.
 

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Al,
The picture of the kit you are installing shows what appears to be a combination valve that was discussed in the article to which I provided the link above. The article indicates the combination valve provides "all of the separate distribution/valving functions described above (distribution block and warning switch, metering/hold-off, and rear proportioning) were integrated in later second-generation disc/drum cars into what became known as the "combination valve". So, all you should need is the 10# residual pressure valve as John noted above (Wilwood has a nice one).
 
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Scott is correct.

There are aftermarket adjustable prop valves like Wilwood that typically mount with a bracket to the MC. I actually have a Wilwood Inline Prop Valve mounted to the frame rail on my 66 Chevelle

When using on of these with 4 wheel disc brakes you do not need the rear brake residual pressure valve.

If using the adjustable prop valve with disc/drum you will still need a 10 psi residual pressure valve or the rear brakes will never work.
John,
You mentioned a valve on the frame rail on your Chevelle. Is it this one? . Could it be put where the original valve was on the frame rail for rear Wilwood disks? It would seem to me like it would be sticking out a bit with the knob.
This would be one way to get the two-piece brake line installed. I installed a one-piece on mine but had to bend the hell out of it. I would not recommend the OP go back with a single line and putting the valve down there will make the challenge much more manageable.
 

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Yes that is the Wilwood valve I used on my chevelle. The Chevelle is a full frame car so I mounted it in the frame channel under the driver side door.

My car has 4 wheel disc brakes so I did not need a residual valve
 

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John,
You mentioned a valve on the frame rail on your Chevelle. Is it this one? . Could it be put where the original valve was on the frame rail for rear Wilwood disks? It would seem to me like it would be sticking out a bit with the knob.
This would be one way to get the two-piece brake line installed. I installed a one-piece on mine but had to bend the hell out of it. I would not recommend the OP go back with a single line and putting the valve down there will make the challenge much more manageable.
I removed the OEM proportioning valve from the subframe rail on my car and simply replaced it with one offered by SSBC (link provided below) pictured below. I mounted it to a piece of 90 deg angle iron to provide protection from debris that might be kicked up by the front tire. I covered the new piece of line I needed to add with a piece of rubber fuel line for protection. SSBC also has the 10# residual pressure valve you'll need. The Wilwood prop valve is very nice, but IMO too large for mounting on the subframe and I did not want to tap into my brake lines at the MC to add one. (The OP won't need the adjustable prop valve since the proportioning is one of the functions of the combination valve supplied with his kit (as I think is the case based on the photo of what's included in the kit - might want to confirm that with the kit supplier).


SSBC Prop Valve: https://ssbrakes.com/i-10094006-uni...r-rear-brake-biasmade-in-usa-black-a0707.html
 

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The SSBC inline is nice. Looks about the same as my Wilwood but with a smaller knob.

The Wilwood and others that mount to or next to the MC look cool to some but don't work any differently than the inlines that cost at lot less. All they do is restrict pressure to the rear brakes. They don't affect pressure to the fronts at all.

Reality is once you adjust it done and not like you're constantly fooling with it.
 
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