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1968 Camaro SS Clone
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
BPE 355 with hydraulic roller cam and stock stamped rockers.

I think I have some lifter noise so checking them while I have the valve covers of to put on new ones. I don’t seem to have any up and down motion in the push rods but I am able to rock the rockers side to side when that valve is on the base circle. This is not rocking in the axis that it pivots when opening valves but 90 degrees to that. I can wiggle the rocker side to side. Is that normal or should I readjust them?
 

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can you spin the push rods with your fingers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
can you spin the push rods with your fingers?
yep, but there is no up and down play in the pushrod that I can feel. That seems normal based on what else I have read. Some say no spin but most say it is ok. I also have some lateral movement in the pushrod which an article on Speedway’s website says I should not have. So the rocker rocks side to side and can also rotate slightly back and forth around the stud.
 

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lifters pump up when the engine runs. when it is off the lifters bleed down some and you can then move rocker side to side on cyl with base circle on lifter some.

I assume other rockers not on base circle are tight?

being able to spin PR is good but not up/down movement

If you are going to adjust them use the EOIC method

with that said, give BPE a call if you are concerned about a noise since the motor is under warranty
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. Yes, when not on the base circle they are tight.
 

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Mike
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I think I have some lifter noise...
If you have headers, have you checked/retighten all of the header bolts?
Header gasket leaks often sound similar to a valve tap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you have headers, have you checked/retighten all of the header bolts?
Header gasket leaks often sound similar to a valve tap.
I did and all seemed tight. New headers are going on today with new gaskets.
 

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68 Camaro SS/RS, 454 BB 4 speed, 3.73 Posi, new paint, motor mods , trans and diff assembly. 2" Drop
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Following here. Have/had similar issue on my BBC. Must have done the valve set 3x, seems good, but theres an ever so slight tick.
 

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OP

Ideally what you hear is a slight exhaust leak but if after the new header install you still hear a "tick" use a mechanics stethoscope, or screwdriver to your ear, and see if you can pinpoint what cyl, and ideally between intake & exhaust valve, where the tick is coming from

Then with that cyl on base circle of cam...is the PR and rocker to lose. Adjust that and see if that resolves the issue.

BPE is a good motor and they are dyno run which would normally show problems if there were but any builder can have issues be it parts or build. Lifters can fail

Also if you...say over revved the motor that can push valve train causing issues

The note about wiped cam lobe....you won't know until you pull manifold and remove the lifter(s) and look down the lifter bore at the cam lobes....or if it gets bad you see metal flakes in the motor.

If the BPE is still under warranty I would contact them first before tearing into motor
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I finally got to take a spin with the new headers and Magnaflow exhaust. Was a quick spin but I didn’t hear any ticking. The Doug’s header have a thicker flange that I am sure seals much better. Seems as if it was just an exhaust leak.
 
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Good to hear Bruce. BPE is regarded as a good engine maker but like any company they can have mistakes or part failure that would have caused your tick

I chased what I thought was a valve train "tick" on a LT1 motor I have in another car. Several valve lash attempts did not resolve the issue....then one day I discovered a broken weld on my header. Quick reweld fixed it....and no more tick

always feels good to find the real cause and one that is not a "oh shiat internal engine" issue
 

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68 Camaro SS/RS, 454 BB 4 speed, 3.73 Posi, new paint, motor mods , trans and diff assembly. 2" Drop
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Should one typically retorque the header bolts after running it? Im using Hedman metal/paper gaskets and torqued the ARP bolts to 25. Noticed the other dayI could turn the bolts w/o much effort, so I cinched up to what was about 25 FP. It never stated anywhere to do that, but wonder what you guys in the real world do.
 

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Should one typically retorque the header bolts after running it? Im using Hedman metal/paper gaskets and torqued the ARP bolts to 25. Noticed the other dayI could turn the bolts w/o much effort, so I cinched up to what was about 25 FP. It never stated anywhere to do that, but wonder what you guys in the real world do.
I will sometimes check them once in a new install. I do use star washers which will prevent the bolt from loosening. You can also safety wire them to prevent movement, if your bolts are drilled out.
 

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It is SOP to re-tighten newly installed header bolts after a few heat cycles. I have never used a TQ wrench...just use the "2 wrench" leverage method by hand
 

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Should one typically retorque the header bolts after running it? Im using Hedman metal/paper gaskets and torqued the ARP bolts to 25. Noticed the other dayI could turn the bolts w/o much effort, so I cinched up to what was about 25 FP. It never stated anywhere to do that, but wonder what you guys in the real world do.
This is typically what I do. Have not had a failure in many years.
 

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68 Camaro SS/RS, 454 BB 4 speed, 3.73 Posi, new paint, motor mods , trans and diff assembly. 2" Drop
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Thanks. Im using AN flat washers on the bikts. If they come loose again, I think I ll add a lock washer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It is SOP to re-tighten newly installed header bolts after a few heat cycles. I have never used a TQ wrench...just use the "2 wrench" leverage method by hand
I did after the first drive. Will adain as well.
 

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68 Camaro SS/RS, 454 BB 4 speed, 3.73 Posi, new paint, motor mods , trans and diff assembly. 2" Drop
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I remember sometime ago you would have to retorque head gaskets. It appears I may have a non pressurized oil leak just above the starter. Oil has a drip on the starter bolt and the block flange just above it, but its not hitting the ground.
I eliminated the vc gasket, so it looks like its either seeping out of the lower head bolt, or the head gasket by the outer head bolt. Seems like the gasket around the bolt or edge may be leaking.
Im thinking of dropping the r/h header to confirm and since all BB bolts go into water jackets, retorqueing is not an option. Then one COLD day when the cooling system is empty while I install a new radiator, remove that bolt, clean threads and goop up bolt and top of bolt hole with Right stuff. should contain the leak. If its the edge at the block run a bead along the deck/head. (Had to do this on a SBF years ago when the Chinese oil left a gap in the front and rear of pan, rather than pull motor again, used right stuff. Its still running as a DD and hasn't leaked and that was 16 years ago).
 
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