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Discussion Starter #1
I was working on my 1976 fxe Harley went to bleed the brake and noticed that the fitting wouldn’t turn so I went over to get my reverse drill bits then I noticed that the thing wouldn’t drill out so I took a look at it with a flash light and I found that some one had previously broke a ez out in it I don’t want to replace the caliper big $$$ any one got any ideas the caliper is aluminum so welding to the ez out is out of the question please help me
 

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i have not had good expernces with ez outs broken off i spent countless hours trying to get one out of a manifold finaly i had a mach. shop cut it out and refill hole leaving good metal for me to drill there doesent seem to be many options with the aluminum,how about just cracking the line to bleed brakes and just leave the caliper alone untill it needs replacing?
 

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I recently had to drill out a broken off ez-out. I bought a titantium drill bit from Lowe's which worked well.

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's
 

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I agree the Titanium drill is worth a try. Mark it first with a sharp center punch, and use a cutting fluid such as Rapid Tap. I drill into L9 bolts (gr.12) all the time with good success. Good luck
 

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i've removed a lot of taps and bolts with a tig welder. if you have acess to a tig welder and the easy out is'nt to deep you can add filler rod until you can weld a nut to the filler rod. then take your time turning back and forth. the heat generated will expand the bolt or easy out and then contract to aid in removal. good luck, scott
 

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Hi C4boom, why can't you tig weld to the remaining broken "e-z out fitting"? Is it too far recessed into the caliper? Just because it's in aluminum shouldn't stop you. The heat from the welding usually frees up what ever is stuck too. You might have to rebuild the caliper and heli-coil it but what does a new one cost? Use freeze spray to make the e-z out brittle and smack it with a punch and hammer will sometimes cause the e-z out to shatter. Good luck
 

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You should bring it to a machine shop, they can mill it out, or will weld a little metal on it and grab it with vise grips. The heat from welding will help break it loose.

A titainium drill bit refers to the gold colored coating, it keeps metal chips from sticking to the bit, supposedly helps keep them sharp.
A cobalt steel bit is the toughest.
High Speed Steel is next toughest, best for all around, you can get them in Titainium coated.
Crome Vanadium bits are junk!

You can buy a repair bleeder with pipe threads on the new seat, and a very small bleeder screw that screws into that.
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page
First Gen Suspension Page
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Chev 350 Can-Am Vintage Racer

[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 06-22-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes it is far down and I think that the e-z out is to small to tig on to I found a shop with a edm they told me that they can do it any one know how one of those things work
 

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Hi C4boom, picture a stick welder being used to burn a hole through something only an EDM is more precise. Some EDM's are designed for removing broken screws only and some are for close tolerance work where broaching would be too expensive. The sacrificial carbon rod of the EDM can be made into numerous shapes and simply burns-up whatever gets in it's way, usually straight in front of it. Yes, it is a very good way to remove broken off screws and if damage was done to the old threads you can always go to the next size larger bleeder. Good Luck
 
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