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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, quick recap. I've recently installed the Ridetech StreetGrip Suspension. Ended up with the fronts being too low and rub the fender. It turned out to be from the 2" McGaughy drop spindles that I did not know about (thought they were stock). Anyways, I later added 3/8" coil spacers from Global West, which fixed the rubbing problem. Car ran fine for a while until last night.

I was driving at night, cruising, not speeding. There was a dip/uneven surface that I did not see, hit it hard, the car slammed, even the front spoiler broke in half. Kept driving slowly and starting noticing the tires rubbing the inner/outer fender walls, like I could barely keep the car straight without rubbing. Worst at turning and braking...but I made it home safely.

I'm planning to lift the car tonight or tomorrow and inspect the damages. My gut feels --> damaged/bent coil spacers, I hope. My worst feeling - Bent Control arms (mine are stock).

Below is a quick video that I took... might help the experts spot it out or not. Photos as well of how close the tires are.

QUESTION/HELP: So I can mentally start preparing myself with the damages.

1) If the Control Arms are damaged - What Control Arms Should I replace with (Aftermarket) should I go with Ridetech?

2) If the spindles are damaged - What should I replace with? I don't have upgraded brakes, c10 10.5"

3) What else could be destroyed and what should I be looking for? Thank you I will update you all after lifting the car




 

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I remember your thread a while back (can’t remember if it was this board or not) and people tried to give you good advice- to use the correct parts. Having approx 4” of “drop” is a disastrous situation driving these cars around. Putting in a 3/8” spacer only gives you 3/4” of lift (still 1 1/4” too much).

Unless you get the correct style spindles your will continue to have the same problems. “If” your lower arms are damaged, and have to replace them be careful not to buy arms with dropped pockets built into them. Buy stock or comparable aftermarket. There are no geometry advantages built into them. Get rid of the spring spacers and use the right parts.
 

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I’d be really surprised if you bent the control arms. I guess it’s possible but that is a pretty significant chunk of metal and seems hard to bend. That said, someone managed to bend the subframe in my 68 enough to offset the lower control arm mount rearward about 1/2”. Are both sides sitting equally lower than they did before this happened? Check the mounts that the upper arms attach too. That would take all the force of a hard upward impact like this one. Do you have bump stops on the lower arms.

For new stuff, I have QA1 in mine and so far I really like it but I have the entire setup for the front. I think the lowers will work with shocks and spring and not just coilovers but you’d want to check first. As mentioned, don’t get one with a deeper pocket. Sometimes its referred to as a long travel arm as well. Whatever you do, you need to either get standard length springs or standards height spindles or you will keep having issues. My fairly uneducated opinion, is keep the drop spindles if they currently do not interfere with the wheel (and are not damaged) and go with regular height springs. Lowering springs reduces the amount of upward travel you have available in the front suspension which I would prefer to have for instances like, say, hitting a big dip in the road.
 

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I'm guess the Lower A arms are not bent. More likely the springs collapsed from the full compression or maybe the shocks are bent inside the tubes not allow them to travel anf holding the car down.
 

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Brett - Leander, Texas 1969 SS396
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Yes, John had mentioned it a number of times that the drop spindles needed to be replaced. I guess now it's the car telling you that you need to back up and install the correct suspension parts for your application.
If you go back to standard spindles and then use tubular control arms, those will lower the front. I'm just not sure that you want to go tubular if you have lowering springs. I have tubular control arms, QA1 coil overs and QA1 springs. Along with a 1-1/8" anti-roll bar. My height from ground to inside wheel well is 23.5", but you really can't compare because I have 15" wheels and 235/60/R15's.

Brett....
 

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Mismatched components never seem to work out.

Just think if you were going faster and lost control. Is it worth your life?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I wasn’t going fast at all. Was actually off the pedal probably around 20-30 kmh.

Anyways , will stock spindles work with my brakes? They’re 10.5” I believe.

Also, IF the control arms are bent, whats the best one to go with, stick with ridetech?

I’ll keep you updated


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I’d be really surprised if you bent the control arms. I guess it’s possible but that is a pretty significant chunk of metal and seems hard to bend. That said, someone managed to bend the subframe in my 68 enough to offset the lower control arm mount rearward about 1/2”.
I've seen plenty of control arms bent, usually from a collision with something besides a road hazard. Your frame may have been damaged in a collision with another vehicle or a curb
Check the mounts that the upper arms attach too. That would take all the force of a hard upward impact like this one.
Under normal conditions there is little to no stress on upper arms. IMO the only time they are under load is when the tires are off the ground or when the lower control arm completely bottoms out, like coming down hard from a wheelstand. With this set up he may have bottomed the lower hard enough but again IMO unlikely to damage the upper mount but I would be looking at it if I was checking front end.

My fairly uneducated opinion, is keep the drop spindles if they currently do not interfere with the wheel (and are not damaged) and go with regular height springs. Lowering springs reduces the amount of upward travel you have available in the front suspension which I would prefer to have for instances like, say, hitting a big dip in the road.
I've never thought about this enough to realize this. In theory standard suspension and springs with drop spindles should ride like a normal car but with the lowered stance. With lowering springs the suspension travel is shorter and car may compress suspension on to bump stops more often. Pros and Con to both.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Your video shows the sway bar end link is missing and the lower ball joint is sitting at a very precarious angle. I think the sway bar was actually holding the car up and let go. You may have broken a spring and jammed a shock.
I think you are RIGHT! Completely forgot about that part just saw an old photo with the end links. Ill check if its on both sides

This is a photo right after the install:



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Discussion Starter #12
Ok so I’m definitely missing the end links as mentioned (driver side).

1- how in the world could it have come out or snap so easily!?

2- how can i prevent that from happening again

3-Do i need that Same exact End link part from Ridetech or is it like a universal part?

4-lifting it properly to see what else could have gone wrong

Here’s a quick video




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Possible the sway bar was adding enough tension to keep the car at the ride height you had before.

as it sits now the sway bar is doing nothing.

the car should be at the desired ride height before the sway bar is installed.

my guess is this is all the result of trying to make things work without addressing the main problem which is the dropped spindles.

get rid of them and go with stock spindles and 90% of you issues will be solved.
 
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My guess is where you are it is not easy to go to the nearest Pepboy's or O'reilleys. Get both ends and trim to make level. I would go with poly bushings personally but that's me. If you can destroy a suspension at 35 mph you might need to go to unobtainium.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Possible the sway bar was adding enough tension to keep the car at the ride height you had before.

as it sits now the sway bar is doing nothing.

the car should be at the desired ride height before the sway bar is installed.

my guess is this is all the result of trying to make things work without addressing the main problem which is the dropped spindles.

get rid of them and go with stock spindles and 90% of you issues will be solved.
Could you please provide me with the best drop spindles to go with? Like the part number also if it would fit with my brakes
Thank you so much




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There are no “best” dropped spindles
 

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Ok not best, but which ones or options lol.. sorry still new with all of this


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The only answer is to get rid of the dropped spindles and use stock spindles.
 

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Could you please provide me with the best drop spindles to go with? Like the part number also if it would fit with my brakes
Thank you so much




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You really don't want to put new "drop" spindles on...put stock spindles on. Then take the blocks out from your front lowering springs.

Rockauto, Summit, Jegs, etc all sell stock spindles

IDK if you bent your A arms, can't really see from this side of the internet

You may be able to buy a new end link from RideTech to match your other one. I have never seen one fall out or break...maybe whoever installed them didn't tighten them but whatever bump you hit maybe it rip it right out

IDK what length the spacer sleeve is on your end links. This ES one says for Camaro but don't know if it is same length as your RideTech one

There may be a chart that says what length they are like the MOOG. Just measure the one you have and get that length
 
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