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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a Holley front end accessory unit for my engine. The AC compressor almost touches the passenger side A arm.

I can relocate the grease zerk to get some clearance. I am afraid that I am going to have to raise the engine to get more clearance.

The AC compressor bracket is made from cast aluminum. It would be hard to cut it and reweld the casting.

Does anybody have any other suggestion that might work?

The car has Holley motor mounts, Detroit Speed Subframe, LT4 engine.


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I would have thought you would use DSE motor mounts with a DSE subframe. How close to the firewall are you? DSE places the engine farther back as far as I know. At least they have an option to. I would give them a call.

Another option might be Dirty Dingo slider mounts.

Yes I know you will have to modify your firewall for the direct injection pump cover if you move it back. 馃檪. Nothing is easy, is it?

FWIW Wegner is pretty much king of the hill for LT4 accessory drives.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Happy Thanksgiving !!

My wife says that I have to stay inside and mingle with her family. Nobody wants to talk about engine adapters.

I have Holley motor mounts that were specifically designed to adapt an LT engine to a Detroit Speed subframe.
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The Holley front end accessory kit is model 20-220 BK. Holley advertises it as a mid mount front end accessory.

I did have to cut a hole in the firewall so the engine could fit without rubbing.





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I bought a Holley front end accessory unit for my engine. The AC compressor almost touches the passenger side A arm.

I can relocate the grease zerk to get some clearance. I am afraid that I am going to have to raise the engine to get more clearance.

The AC compressor bracket is made from cast aluminum. It would be hard to cut it and reweld the casting.

Does anybody have any other suggestion that might work?

The car has Holley motor mounts, Detroit Speed Subframe, LT4 engine.


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View attachment 298657





View attachment 298658
looks like you need about an additional 1/4" or so clearance. Why not fab a few spacer plates that fit under the existing motor mounts to raise the engine? Of course that might create other issues with fan/shroud, hood clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was thinking adding a spacer plate like Mr. Vega#69 and Mr. Tom Pugh mentioned. I think the engine will twist away from A arm as the RPM increases. I wonder how much will the engine rebound when I release the throttle.

Hood clearance is not an issue. I wonder if the headers will hit the floor pan if they are raised.
 

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So Holley motor mounts don鈥檛 work with a Holley accessory drive? Nice.

I鈥榤 sure you will fix it but this compressor is mounted higher.
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Don
 

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The engine will lift on the drivers side under load. The passenger side really doesn鈥檛 move.
 

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I was thinking adding a spacer plate like Mr. Vega#69 and Mr. Tom Pugh mentioned. I think the engine will twist away from A arm as the RPM increases. I wonder how much will the engine rebound when I release the throttle.

Hood clearance is not an issue. I wonder if the headers will hit the floor pan if they are raised.
'I wonder if the headers will hit the floor pan if they are raised'. On my small block car the flange on the Hookers hit the pass side pan. I had to gently move the floor pan up with a block of wood and BFH, then shave the top of the flange slightly to give 3/8" clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So Holley motor mounts don鈥檛 work with a Holley accessory drive? Nice.

I鈥榤 sure you will fix it but this compressor is mounted higher.

Don
This is the reason why I bought the Holley solution: Holley advertises this to be a complete engineered solution. Their components are engineered to work together and bolt on with no problems. Plug and Play.

I think the solid works engineer did not model the grease zerk and thought 1/16" clearance is ok. Someone with more experience should have checked his work.

As a side note: The Holley alternator has a sticker that states it was made in the USA. I called Holley and the guy on the other end of the phone said it was made in China. Holley does not stock any replacement parts for the alternator.
 

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Holley or detroit speed should be able to help you with this. Left to my own devices, I would try to move the engine forward a bit for some clearance. The engine shouldn't move any with solid mounts except for the frame / body twist. If you have firewall support tubes added that would minimize it. Can you get the belt on it like it sits?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I relocated the grease zerk last weekend. It was not too hard. The round base is made from aluminum.

I was afraid of the filings would get inside the greased surfaces. I drilled a pilot hole and then I greased the the zerk next to the new hole. The grease pushed the filings out of the just drilled pilot hole. I drilled the hole larger and then re-greased the zert. There aren't any filings in the hole.

I have a special grease zert tool. It has a flat tip die to tap the hole. The other end has an easy out. The silver part is a socket to remove a zert. The other end of the silver part is slotted so that I can remove a 90 or 45 degree zert.

Here is a photo of the zerk in the new hole.

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This is the reason why I bought the Holley solution: Holley advertises this to be a complete engineered solution. Their components are engineered to work together and bolt on with no problems. Plug and Play.

I think the solid works engineer did not model the grease zerk and thought 1/16" clearance is ok. Someone with more experience should have checked his work.

As a side note: The Holley alternator has a sticker that states it was made in the USA. I called Holley and the guy on the other end of the phone said it was made in China. Holley does not stock any replacement parts for the alternator.
Re the Holley mid mount alternator. I did have one fail after a few thousand miles on a street driven car. Holley has been taken over by cost accountants. Read the description鈥.


Don
 
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Just a thought , how about doubling up the thickness of the engine plates, welding them, to raise the engine ever so slightly and then drilling holes forward if needed. This way the bulk of the Holley stuff can still be used.
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Hopefully it won't throw off alignment of clamshell mounts,bolts and the trans mount, driveline angle, firewall? Oh man its starting to morph into more. With your welding skills anything is possible.
 

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Can't help you with your motor mount issue but I feel your pain about no car stuff today. I was going to sneak out there early before anyone was awake but I over slept.
I was able to get out in the shop for a couple of hours to spray some primer. Wife could see I was going stir crazy 馃ぃ.

Don
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just a thought , how about doubling up the thickness of the engine plates, welding them, to raise the engine ever so slightly and then drilling holes forward if needed. This way the bulk of the Holley stuff can still be used.
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Hopefully it won't throw off alignment of clamshell mounts,bolts and the trans mount, driveline angle, firewall? Oh man its starting to morph into more. With your welding skills anything is possible.
There you go this is what I am talking about. Good Suggestion. The reason I am asking is because a little change could morph into a big problem.

These inlaws are crazy. Now they are having an argument about the holy trinity. The people from New Orleans say that the trinity consist of bellpepper, onioin, and garlic. The people from Lafayette say it is bellpepper, onion, and celery. I am from north Louisiana, I have no idea what they are talking about.
 
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