[57vette]

Marc...

Here's a couple of choices...

I used the All American Billet pieces but found the Eddies Washers well after I had ordered the others. I believe they are called "Beveled Countersunk Aluminum Washers" but there might be a more formal trade name I'm sure.

 

[Just 1 More]

I get mine through All Star Performance & Amazon

Search results

allstarperformance.com

 

[Marc]

Thank trying to help

 

[Marc]

Hi guys,
I am preparing so the install will be more easy... I got today the first package, which is the PWM controller.
it is meant to be be installed with the aluminum support working as a heat sink, assembly this way. But I don't like it.

It is 1 3/4 " and I am almost sure I cannot install it inside the shroud. I don't like to install above the shroud. I found there is no other place because I kept my battery at the original location.
I called North radiator but they do not have a real technical service.

I am thinking of that assembly :

Any objections?

I am not going to drill new holes on the PWM box, I can locate reuse the holes for fixing. The plate will be drilled.

Depending on the room inside the shroud, I am thinking the wire connection point could protrude through the shroud, the plate would be fixed not using the bracket but just directly on the plastic shroud. I would keep the bracket unused as heat sink.

I'd like your opinions. Best should be to ask Carl Casanova himself .
I think my idea works, and I could use some spacers / shims between the plate and the shroud to avoid the contact and get a small amount of air between.


Marc

 

[Worn Out Welder]

The controller must be in contact with the aluminum in order to allow thermal transfer, so other than that I see no reason I’ll that your flip would have a problem.
I actually thought about doing that but incorporated the mount with my transmission cooler

 

[57vette]

Marc... Carl Casanova, the developer of the PWM you're using, did a lot of test work with it, and in this picture its mounted inside the Lincoln Mk VIII plastic fan shroud and he used a metal (I assume aluminum) exterior plate to thru-bolt it. You may or may not want the wiring posts exposed but I'm sure that you could cap those wit slip on caps or make some kind of cover for them. I would've done something like this but in my shroud design, I did not have enough "real estate" to locate the PWM unit unless I gave up one of the twelve Be-Cool flap openings.

Here's where I mounted mine...

Down the road I may move the battery to the trunk and perhaps I will re-locate the PWM. I have a jumble of wiring in that corner including a sizable controller box for the RS headlight motors. Thats one of the reasons I didn't run my heater/AC hoses over the top of the inner fender. Just too much to deal with snaking around the battery.

 

[Marc]

Mike,

Thank you for our explanation. Indeed I am planning (in my head only I don't have the fan yet to test) to do something similar to Carl did but place it on the bottom right, not top. I was thinking to use the supplied alumimum plate but to the inside of the shroud, now I see he has an outside plate, I guess then he removed a portion of the fan shroud to fix that plate on it.... that's also an option... I like that... I think I ll do that. I still have some rest of an aluminum plate I could use.
I will find slip on caps or I'll use heat shrinkable cable hoses, I have some large one.
I didn't understand why didn't you mount yours on the radiator shroud directly?

Marc

 

[57vette]

Mike,
I didn't understand why didn't you mount yours on the radiator shroud directly?

Marc

A pictures worth a thousand words 😂.

Between the two 12" fans and the dozen flaps not much room left over to mount it. While this setup might be more than enough to cool a SBC, or a BBC without AC, my warm weather rides have given me some doubt so I'm troubleshooting the 12v power, mainly seeing if the fans are getting adequate voltage. I have switched the power/ground cables to the battery terminals, before they were connected to the Junction Block and chassis ground. In the old setup the voltage was under 12v at the PWM pos/neg posts. Haven't tested the new wiring setup yet been too busy with interior stuff.

 

[Shannon4570]

I mounted mine next to the radiator on a flat section of the radiator support:

 

[Marc]

Tim, it seems your battery is out of the way... which is not my case

 

[57vette]

Probably what I would do if I didn't have the battery there LOL. Tim... are your 12v Power and Ground connected directly to the battery?

 

[Marc]

Hi guys, I made some good progress, please go see and comment my page if interested

I have a question : the temp sender connector plug is thin like the toys of my children, it clicks in but with no effort I can move up and down the plug. I hope the electrical connection is strong. There is nothing I can do but is that 'play' normal? Did you also notice that?

Marc

 

[Marc]

I just finished wiring. I missed this crimp on the fuse link. First time i use such fuse and I wonder if the center part can be deformed by the crimp?

 

[Marc]

Another question is about the AC trigger wire. it says when AC motor trigger wire is hot the fan will get to approximate 50 % of its speed.... I wonder if this is required?
Shouldn't I connect this wire to a switch instead?
I mean I understand AC on at idle by a hot day, may require directly more fan speed... but why would the fan need 'always' 50% when the AC is on? What about freeway speeds?

Thanks

 

[Worn Out Welder]

It’s not only 50% fan speed.
It ramps to 50% even if not needed, to supplement needed air flow for the BTU load of the AC.
Then the fan continues to run linear increments up to 95% of maximum…or close to it.
Otherwise, at an idle the AC could, under the right conditions, reach the high pressure cut out.
Make sense?

 

[Marc]

Sorry but what means BTU?
Got it, so I will connect this blue wires together.
I didn't though about AC condensor cooling need.
But does it mean in the right driving condition (at speed) the fan will stay on as well? I never noticed inside my modern cars if this is the case as well...

 

[57vette]

Typically, when the car is at a good road speed (say ^35 mph), the airflow coming through the grill is supposed to be enough to cool both the condenser and the radiator. LOL, that's how most modern cars do it... but sometimes on our older cars it can get tricky. The temp sensor mounted on the side of the radiator will trigger the fan(s) on, ramping up the motor speed as needed to maintain the radiator temp at or just below the sensors trigger point.

BTU (British Thermal Unit) is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one (1) pound of water by one (1) degree Fahrenheit.

We've had an ongoing discussion here about the flow of air through the grill and whether closing out the lower section of the valance to the core support will force more air through the condenser & radiator. I'm in the process of building my own closeout panel for that area. Air, like water, will follow the path of least resistance and if you look down at that area you'll see a roughly 38" wide opening that is around 6" wide at the center, tapering to maybe 4" at the subframe area. I think it can't hurt to close that gap.

 

[dhutton]

Sorry but what means BTU?
Got it, so I will connect this blue wires together.
I didn't though about AC condensor cooling need.
But does it mean in the right driving condition (at speed) the fan will stay on as well? I never noticed inside my modern cars if this is the case as well...

Use a trinary switch.

 

[Marc]

I learnt tonight what a trinary switch is... This seems indeed appropriate!
I have bought my AC lines now... but I may inquire more about it.

I have no idea however in which situation ac fluid pressure can go too low or too high ?
I am guessing : on my Vintage Air system there is no pressure protection ? or is there a binary switch installed as ultimate protection?

I'll keep that info.
This starts to be another thread related topic...

Thanks

 

[dhutton]

I learnt tonight what a trinary switch is... This seems indeed appropriate!
I have bought my AC lines now... but I may inquire more about it.

I have no idea however in which situation ac fluid pressure can go too low or too high ?
I am guessing : on my Vintage Air system there is no pressure protection ? or is there a binary switch installed as ultimate protection?

I'll keep that info.
This starts to be another thread related topic...

Thanks

You should have a binary switch on your drier. Change it to a trinary.