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I have an engine from a 1971 Camaro in my 1965 Chevy 1/2 ton stepside. It began to backfire a few weeks back through the exhaust when the weather got cold out. This truck is garage kept during the evening hours. When I started it, it would take about 10 minutes to warm up to the point where it would run right. Then one Monday about a week ago now, it would not start at all!!! I have since changed out the points, condensor, and the coil...the cap and rotor look good so I have not replaced them as of yet. I turn the key and the starter turns and turns but there is NO fire what-so-ever. CAN ANYONE HELP END MY NIGHTMARE!?
 

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Start with the basics I guess.Did you check for spark?Do you have gas getting to the carb.?Need more info!

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67 RS RAGTOP # matching, 4X4 CHEVY TRUCK
 

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Get an ignition wire tester and see if spark is reaching plugs if so check fuel systems.
 

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does your truck have a "ballast -resistor"(white looking sguare, mounted on firewall) it might be internally shorted(open)???? good-luck....

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70camaro(350)ground-up restification,350 slightly modified
 

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Yes I have a ballast resistor...did not know that it could be shorted out...How do I check it? <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by doug70:
does your truck have a "ballast -resistor"(white looking sguare, mounted on firewall) it might be internally shorted(open)???? good-luck....
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 

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do you have a VOLT/OHMS meter,put it on RX1 scale and check to see if the ballast resistor makes a "circuit"(remove wires from it,and place test probes ,one on one end the one on other)(the needle on meter will move,over) if no connection the meter will "lye" there,thus no complete circuit...the ballast resistor drops voltage a little on "points" system to around 8-10volts...good-luck...

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70camaro(350)ground-up restification,350 slightly modified
 

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Don't forget, the ballast resister is not used during starting. The starter solinoid bypasses the resister wire for a full 12 volts to the coil.

Larry
 

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To me this sounds like a classic vacuum leak.
The trick I used was starting fluid around the base of the carb and intake. Just be very careful. It does find it quick. The RPM will pick up when leak is found.

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67 SS
70 Z/28
 

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I don't know much, but this sounds awfully familiar. My 86 Camaro takes about 10 minutes to warm up and run right in cold weather too. Check your plugs...they may be gas-fouled. If they are, then you may have a problem with your choke or choke pull-off. This is the advice I got. Make sure air is getting to the engine.

Just a thought.


Mark
 

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get a test light and connect it from a good ground to the negative coil terminal. Crank the engine and watch the light. It should blink off and on. if it stays on you have no ground connection somewhere.
There is a little ground wire that connects the point plate to the distributor housing. It connects to one of the vaccum advance attachment screws. check that it is not broken off. It moves when the vaccum can moves the point plate.
If you have a good blinking light, then test the coil by plugging one of the spark plug wires into the coil and put a spark plug in the end and lay it on a good ground source. NOT the battery or carburetor where sparks could ignite the hydrogen fumes from the battery or the carb fuel. Crank the engine and look for spark. If you have spark at the coil, then the problem is either in the cap and rotor, wires, or plugs. Give us the results of your tests, and we'll help you with more suggestions. Regards, David
 
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