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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I dropped in my new MDS Pro Billet distributor, swapped all the plug wires and she fired! I ran her for about five minutes before I noticed the connection on the back of the alternator was sparking! I ran over. pulled the disconnect switch, and the car ran for a few seconds before dying. I disconnected the distributor and tried to turn the car over, but no spark. The starter turns over, but nothing. I tried pulling the coil wire and holding it close to ground while triggering the box, and no dice. Think I fried my ignition box? Maybe the coil? It's an MSD-6AL with an MSD Blaster 2. These ignition problems are really bugging me!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
REALLY? A brand new MSD distributor? I've read nothing but good things about the quality of this company! I actually ran the coil wire-to-ground test and am not getting the arch. According to troubleshooting, I need to replace the coil and test again. If it works, the coil was bad, if not the ignition box is gone. I was wondering if anyone had any other test I could use to narrow it down without having to spend money on the coil.

If MSD components fail easily, what is a good quality name to go with? I've had nothing but trouble with Mallory stuff, and I've read Pertronix has a lot of issues as well.
 

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If you are talking about pulling a "master disconnect switch" that removes battery power from the entire vehicle, you then have ran the alt in the open circuit mode by removing the diodes from the charging circuit, and the alt then makes AC voltage instead of DC. The Diodes crop the rise and fall in the sine wave of AC voltage, which is what converts AC to DC voltage. Alternators all make AC voltage without the diode packs, and you can hear a funny whine when a diode goes bad, meaning AC voltage is being output to the battery, and you can actually see it with a voltmeter set to read AC voltage @ the battery terminals. Basically you could run a blender when you do that, and have passed up to 300 volts through your system depending on your alt. You NEVER disconnect batter cables by any means from a running vehicle like you used to, to test a generator. Race cars are required to run a box along with a master battery disconnect switch that immediately opens the charging system circuit killing the charging system @ the same time. Sounds like you now have a well done MSD ign system... Remember, everything electrical has smoke in it... and it's not done until you let the smoke out.
 

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If you are talking about pulling a "master disconnect switch" that removes battery power from the entire vehicle, you.
I kinda doubt you bypassed the diodes since they are connected directly to the stator, but you did run unfiltered DC through the system when you disconnected the battery. The battery acts as a big capacitor absorbing the spikes and holding a steady reference voltage. I would hope MSD would tolerate that for a few seconds, but apparently not.
 

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I know the Mallory stuff is hyper sensative to over voltage. In fact as little as 15 volts can zap them. I thought MSD was a bit more forgiving, but have seen a few dead ones I suspect of being subjected to a voltage spike. In the old OEM mechanical voltage regulator setups it's very easy to have an over voltage situation.
 
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