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Premium Member
644 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
To all,
I just wanted to thank everyone who has contributed to this site.

I have been working on a project since January 2017 and found this site instrumental to the restoration effort I have undertaken.
I am restoring a 1967 Camaro L78. It started out as changing a leaking oil pan and blew up into a ground up rotisserie restoration.
I considered myself pretty knowledgeable when it comes to 67 Camaro's but, found out how much more there was to learn about them during
the restoration of this vehicle. I spent the first few months disassembling, documenting and categorizing all the parts to hopefully make
it easier to reassemble. The next few months involved restoring all the drive train, interior and body parts. The past few months have focused
on sheet metal fabrication.

Here is what I have done to date:
- Had the engine professionally rebuilt. (I put hardened valve seats for the exhaust).
- Restored all engine brackets and pulleys.
- Restored the console and gauges myself. I learned how to restore the clock and have repaired 3 others now.
- Had the speedometer repaired. I repaired the tachometer myself.
- Had the sub frame, control arms, and trans cross member media blasted and repainted. I put NOS ball joints with the correct rivets.
- Put in all new bushings. The tie rods, idler arm and pitmen arm were I just refurbished them.
- Restored my interior myself.
- Rebuilt my rear axle and transmission myself.
- Had the inner fender wells, radiator core support, lamp housing assemblies, battery tray, and fender supports media blasted and repainted.
- Re-plated the bumpers and vent windows. I rebuilt the entire vent window assemblies using NOS weather stripping.
- Refurbished window assemblies
- Had the original Harrison 4 core professionally rebuilt.
- Refurbished the original traction bar assembly.
- Refurbished the original leaf springs.
- Rebuilt the 4 piston disc brakes, brake booster.
- Refurbished all the wiring harnesses.
- Refurbished most of the original nuts and bolts.

Fabrication I performed: (Butt welds in all cases except filler panel)
- Butt weld a small patch at front of driver floor.
I had some pin holes right in the middle of the floor that must have occurred from water getting in through the window. I bought an AMD patch
from HBC (HeartBeat City) (Made in USA) and decided to use as much of the patch I could. The ribbing on the patch was fatter than the original so, I
did not use that portion. I had to cut out the welds that hold 3 different pieces of overlapping sheet metal away to get this patch in. It resulted
in a very nice patch that is barely noticeable from either side.

- Butt welded the section of the trans tunnel that holds the seat belt anchors (Donor trans tunnel)
I have contacted all the previous owners of this car. The second owner's son indicated that he threw a drive shaft while racing. The drive shaft came
up through the floor and just missed the driver. When I pulled the interior out, the floor was still ripped and kind of pounded back into shape (barely).
Honestly, it was a mess. I spend a few days pounding the tunnel and floor into some semblance of what it was supposed to look like and welded the tear that
cut across the tunnel right behind the seat belt anchors. I was able to find a guy that had a floor from a 67 Camaro in his back yard. He cut out the tunnel
and mailed it to me. I cut it down to just what was required to remove the distorted and bent up metal and butt welded it in. The floor now looks fantastic!

- Butt welded small patch near traction bar bracket location.
I used a new patch from CC (Camaro Central). I tried a small patch from HBC (Made in USA) and found it difficult to use because it came
with cuts in it right where I needed to weld and was hard to line up IMO. I tossed that patch and used the full patch. I was careful to remove the seat belt and
seat anchors first, so i could place the portion of the patch I needed over the original metal to get the right fit. It came out better than
I could have ever expected. I did this without affecting the original traction bar plate. And yes, I did have to cut holes in the patch where
the traction bar bolts come through the floor as part of the fitting process. I had great success with the full patch.

- Butt welded 2'x4' patch at rear of each fender. (Hand-made patches)
This was my first attempt at butt welding (after several test runs with 20 gauge sheet metal). It was quite easy since I could get at the weld
from the front and the back. It is hard to even tell where the weld is now. I picked these patches up from HBC as well.

- Butt welded patches at bottom rear of each quarter.
This was the most difficult fabrication I had to perform. This was a difficult choice for me. The affected areas were very small. Only
a few inches in total. But it was right at the location were all 3 pieces of sheet metal (quarter panel, inner well, quarter panel filler panel)
join. I cut small patches for the quarter and inner fender using the AMD patches....ensured they fit over the original pieces before cutting them out.
The butt welded patches fit like a glove with no warping. This was a very time consuming process. It required patience and a measure twice cut once
methodology. I picked up a few good habits like cutting the patch first, fitting it and then using the grinder around the patch while in place to ensure
a consistent match between patch and affected area.

- Replaced the rear filler panel. (AMD full panel)
This was by far the easiest (and last piece of fabrication I wonder shops recommend panel replacement). I found a good SuperChevy article
and followed it to a tee and had no alignment issues.

Here are major things I bought: (I created a spread sheet of all parts required cross referencing 5 parts distributors)
- All new SS fuel and brake lines (HBC)
- New gas tank (original is in excellent condition...even the sending unit) (HBC)
- All new weather stripping. New cat whiskers (originals were nice...till I removed them :(The nicer stuff from HBC)
- All the AMK master kits. (Direct Purchase)
- Patch panels for rear quarters, outer wheel wells and driver and rear passenger side floor. (HBC and CC)
- Rocker spear moldings (My buddy Camaro Rick in FLA)
- New headliner
- Transmission rebuilt kit (Can't remember where I got this from?)
- Rear axle bearings, races and seals (From Tom's Differentials)
- 5 HP/ 80 gallon Quicny compressor (Power Equipment Direct)
- Regulator, water separator (Power Equipment Direct)
- pneumatic: die grinder(s), 3" grinder, 5" grinder, skill saw. (Northern Tools)
- Hoses and adaptors (Northern Tools)
- Devilbiss Finishline 4 Primer gun kit(Eastwood)
- DP90 sealer, K38 primer, PPG Bolero Red Paint (Ditzler 71583), PPG Satin Black (Automotive Paint Supplies, inc.)
- Metal to Metal filler (Automotive Paint Supplies, inc.)
- 3" 36, 60 and 100 grid sanding discs (Graingers)
- 2" 36 grit sanding discs (prefer these when grinding welds) (Automotive Paint Supplies, inc.)
- $400 in parts to build a collapsible paint booth in my garage. (Lows)
- rotisserie ( Buddy Roger)
- MIG welder ( Buddy Roger)

What I still need to fork $$ for:
- Re-ceramic coat my headers.
- Refurbish my wheel well trim.
- Refurbish my radio.
- Any thing I forgot :(

I am very excited about beginning the painting/blocking/painting stage of this restoration next week. More to come.

I have many pics on my phone. If anyone is interested in any of the steps or results, let me know and I will try to post some.

68 RS L30 AA 749
7,630 Posts
Sure, would like follow your build as that's a very rare and desirable car and sounds like you're doing it up right. :thumbsup: I'd suggest starting a build thread here, Build Projects - Team Camaro Tech. as it will help document the car, plus we can follow along with your progress.:beers:
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