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All car guy should have that dizzy wrench, mine for 50 years or so. Its amazing my cars run fine with #1 pointing to #1 cylinder.
Can't figure out why my motors run fine pointing at #1 either. Plenty of adjustment with the vacuum can too. I'll have to ask my other gear head friends why their motors run well. Notably one who has been wrenching cars for nearly forty years and has over 50 cars in his collection at any given time.
 

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I have had a dizzy wrench with the adapter and two sizes since about 1981 or so. I thought this was a requirement for admission here ;)...
 

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I stand corrected, 7 for points, 5 for coil in cap HEI. I apologize if this caused anyone to do it the wrong way, it was never, and, is not my intention.
 

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I've been working on these things for sixty years. Dropped a bunch of distributors into engines. Now I am wondering if I did it wrong. #1 to TDC. Rotor pointed to #1 wire position, Rotate the engine while holding the distributor until is drops into the oil pump slot. Set the timing.
 

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I think the reason for this post is to show from a purist view that that a non HEI car the factory correct position for the #1 wire is @ the 7:00 o鈥檆lock position. If it鈥檚 at 5, you could loose points (no pun intended) while showing you car with installation not being what the factory did.

If the above is not the reason then please explain why you need you number 1 at 7:00 o鈥檆lock and not 5:00 o鈥檆lock mechanically speaking? Prior to doing so take Into consideration that when you installed the distributor you had proper oil pump drive alignment the canister is in a position to have adjustment, it was installed at TDC #1 having the rotor, cap and points/reluctor/pickup all in phase.
As long as you have installed the distributor with everything in phase mechanically # 1 can be anyplace. I personally use 5:00 o鈥檆lock on everything because one I am not a purist nor do I have a car that requires anything different. The biggest reason is for my OCD, with it being at number one you only have two plug wires that cross over the cap in odd locations. For
Me it just gives a more sanitary look to the system. I would love to run a correct-a-cap for the looks but I don鈥檛 trust them internally. I tried one many years ago and it had a cross fire issue. The pictures below might not be to everyone鈥檚 taste but it satisfies my plug wire OCD鈥OL!!
275652
275653
275654
275655
 

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The arbitrary 5 and 7 positions were the way GM factory assembled the wiring for all new engines.

NOBODY is forcing anyone to do it the correct way, do it any way you wish, make yourself happy.

Just me, but, I wouldn't have done if the way shown above, too much chance the plug ends can migrate on the plug, and run the wire up directly against the header tubes, and, grouping all the wires together, no, thanks, that way, they have a serious opportunity to cross fire RF from one wire to another, attempting to fire 2 or more plugs at a time. I make all my wiring do a 90 degree cross, like the way factory bog block engines have them routed. But, that is just me, a Chevrolet Skunk Works department engine designer, and ignition system converter.

As I said, make yourself happy.
 

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IMHO spark plug wires have developed over the last 50+ years eliminating some of the interference issues they once were prone to regardless of a "5 or 7 o'clock" @ #1 TDC orientation. GM had its reasons back in the 60's but those may not fully apply using todays quality wire sets relative to a 5 or 7 o'clock rotor orientation

A quality plug wire installed so it does not "lay" against excessive heat (read routed in wire management clips) does not mater if you set up dizzy as stock (7 o'clock) vs 5
 

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And, I haven't ever seen you in my 40 plus years working in automotive ignition systems. Mine don't cross fire, but, I have seen way too many that do, even with the ultra super name brand wires, when they are routed parallel with each other.

NOBODY is saying to do it right, after all, if they look good, they must be right.
 

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And, I haven't ever seen you in my 40 plus years working in automotive ignition systems. Mine don't cross fire, but, I have seen way too many that do, even with the ultra super name brand wires, when they are routed parallel with each other.

NOBODY is saying to do it right, after all, if they look good, they must be right.
Do you have any pictures or drawings on how a factory big block should have the wires run in the holders?

275819
 

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And, I haven't ever seen you in my 40 plus years working in automotive ignition systems. Mine don't cross fire, but, I have seen way too many that do, even with the ultra super name brand wires, when they are routed parallel with each other.

NOBODY is saying to do it right, after all, if they look good, they must be right.
Dave do you have any problems with the R & M type looms that run the wires horizontally and parallel along the valve covers about 1/2" apart? I have never had a problem since the 80's.
 

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The arbitrary 5 and 7 positions were the way GM factory assembled the wiring for all new engines.

NOBODY is forcing anyone to do it the correct way, do it any way you wish, make yourself happy.

Just me, but, I wouldn't have done if the way shown above, too much chance the plug ends can migrate on the plug, and run the wire up directly against the header tubes, and, grouping all the wires together, no, thanks, that way, they have a serious opportunity to cross fire RF from one wire to another, attempting to fire 2 or more plugs at a time. I make all my wiring do a 90 degree cross, like the way factory bog block engines have them routed. But, that is just me, a Chevrolet Skunk Works department engine designer, and ignition system converter.

As I said, make yourself happy.
Welcome back to the site ignition man, it has to be 10 years or longer since you were here last. I guess the moderators finally granted you parole from the lifetime ban?
Still doing the small body HEI conversions? I had one of those years ago, it鈥檚 now living in a friends truck.
 

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I was asked back by the original site owners, because people requested info they weren't getting. One fact, I defend myself when attacked, and that is the ONLY thing I did, period. It is ironic, when the troublemakers get called on their attacks, they cower into "I was abused" mode.

I am not back, I just feel this, and other boards just aren't worth putting up with a very few troublemakers that have no reason to cause it. I answer when I see misinformation, nothing more. I have been here this round, for a few years now, really don't need to explain myself, all I want to do is help others get it right, and not confuse, not drain wallets with bad info.

Happy to hear your system is still going, it should not have problems/issues, they are super reliable. I have the shop closed, I had a Brown Recluse spider bite that took a year and a half to resolve on my left hand, and now, even more physical issues, now waiting, painfully, for a new left hip.

Take care, Joe.

Scott, I am opposed to any parallel routing, 90 degree cross over, fine. I know that is not as easy to do, but, facts are facts, parallel routing, with any wire set is a good place to be problematic. If you do run them parallel, get them as far separated as you possibly can.
 
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