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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a problem putting the new pitman arm on. It goes on but not very far, I almost have an inch to go and my 2 foot cheater is tapped out. I don't even have the lock nut on because the nut threads are not all engaged yet. I know its on tight and if I leave it this way, then I have another problem, at the other end, the other end of the pitman arm does not go in enough to the center link to put the castle nut on. I am using the pitman arm removal tool to squeeze together the pitman arm to the center link.
 

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I have a problem putting the new pitman arm on. It goes on but not very far, I almost have an inch to go and my 2 foot cheater is tapped out. I don't even have the lock nut on because the nut threads are not all engaged yet. I know its on tight and if I leave it this way, then I have another problem, at the other end, the other end of the pitman arm does not go in enough to the center link to put the castle nut on. I am using the pitman arm removal tool to squeeze together the pitman arm to the center link.
I just did this tonight and pitman arm went pretty far up with hardly any effort and other end went right in. Are you sure you have 4 large grooves lined up? Sounds like something isn’t correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought That the installation was the easy part. When I was aligning the pitman arm, I mark the large groove with a magic marker on the side of the pitman arm. I used a hammer to tap it on. After several attempts, it started. once started I was able to get the nut on and start turning. it was not long before it was tight. one to 1.5 treads on the nut are not fully engaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If yours went right on, it makes me think that something is wrong even more. I think I will take it off and look at it.
 

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If yours went right on, it makes me think that something is wrong even more. I think I will take it off and look at it.
I pushed he steering linkage that goes in the small end as far forward as I could do I could push the large end on to the steering box. Then once it was pushed on I pulled the steering arms back and down then up into pivot
 

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I removed and reinstalled mine a couple months back and it seated fairly easily. I wonder if maybe you are off by just one spline on the alignment.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I took the pitman arm off. You can see that it was on but only about 1/4 of an inch. When I mean SEE, the splines on the steering column were ruffed up. You can see it and feel it. The Pitman arm shows no wear. Unless I hear otherwise, I plan tp get a small file and clean up the splines and buy a new pitman arm, Moog this time.
 

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Below is an image of a new pitman arm attached to a quick ratio PS box I installed a few years ago.
The pitman arm does not go all the way onto the steering shaft splines... but just far enough that the nut and lock washer are even with the end of the shaft when torqued to spec.
274623

When I removed the original steering box and pitman arm, they looked to be installed the same way.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I noticed that when I was trying to take off the pitman arm, it was not all the way up as you described, The nut WITHOUT the lock washer was not flush and not fully engaged.
The pitman arm I have is Pro-forged and MOOG does not make a pitman arm. Moog did refer me to rareparts, but they want $181. Classic parts has it for much less.

What brand did you use that went on well?????
 

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I noticed that when I was trying to take off the pitman arm, it was not all the way up as you described, The nut WITHOUT the lock washer was not flush and not fully engaged.
The pitman arm I have is Pro-forged and MOOG does not make a pitman arm. Moog did refer me to rareparts, but they want $181. Classic parts has it for much less.

What brand did you use that went on well?????
Maybe try another pro-forge could have been installed before. A little anti-seize.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was a long time under the car with 2 small files getting rid of the ruff spots. Now smooth. For kicks I tried my proforged pitman arm again. After 1/4 inch it got tight again. No cheater bar this time. I for a small flashlight and mirror to check the alignment and it looks good. my mark lines up with the groove. No easy matter to get the flashlight and mirror correct. I am now convinced that the problem is the proforged pitman arm.
Rifraf says he got a Moog. I looked online and he right, they make a 67 camaro pitman arm. The firebird pitman arm also fits the camaro. Even though Moog says they do not make a pitman arm for firebird, indeed they do!
 

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View attachment 274623
When I removed the original steering box and pitman arm, they looked to be installed the same way.
Just did a new steering box with old pitman arm... looked like the above coming off, and same way on....breaker bar with 2' pipe (cheater)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just did a new steering box with old pitman arm... looked like the above coming off, and same way on....breaker bar with 2' pipe (cheater)
I got the new MOOG pitman arm. It's going on with a 2 ft cheater, but it is going on better than pro forged pitman arm. wherever it stops, that will be it! I'm taken a breather right now. It just might end up flush like in your picture.
 

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I got the new MOOG pitman arm. It's going on with a 2 ft cheater, but it is going on better than pro forged pitman arm. wherever it stops, that will be it! I'm taken a breather right now. It just might end up flush like in your picture.
Glad to hear that the Moog pitman arm is working out better for you.

I also remember that I placed a couple pieces of 2x4 studs between the pitman arm and the frame when tightening the pitman arm nut.... to keep the stress off of the steering box internal gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I did not use any 2x4's. The pitman arm did move the steering to the end of travel. The pitman arm is now in and the lock washer is in place, and it is flush with the end just like the picture above. I did have a little trouble with the other end going to the center link. The pitman arm end did not want to go in. So I took out my mini grinder and cleaned out the hole in the center link. That worked and the pitman arm is attached to the center link with the castle nut and cotter pin. So the 67 camaro and the 67 firebird pitman arms are indeed the same.
 

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I know there is a difference between manual and power steering pitman arms, but never had problems with the center link. As pictured, the arm, lock washer and nut should be installed and torqued with at least 1 thread showing. I'll look thru my service manuals and see if I can come up with a torque spec. A vast magnitude of GM vehicles use the same nut & washer on the pitman arm. Over torque could make it extremely difficult to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I used a front suspention puller to squeeze the center link to the pitman arm. The castle nut went on, and I was able to tighten it down because it was squeezed together. I was barely able to get the cotter pin in, so I don't think I overtighten it. At least I know I can not back the castle nut off, if I did the cotter pin would not fit.
 

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It helps connecting the center link if you loosen the idler arm to frame bolts. That allows everything to line up without binding. Tighten the center link bolts, then tighten the idler arm to frame bracket bolts.
 
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