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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All, I have a couple of questions for those that have installed roof rail channel. I have my windows in, but not aligned and adjusted yet. I plan to use double sided black foam tape to seal the channel to the body. is there anything else I should do? Does anyone have any tricks to ensure I get leak free results? Is anyone adding any additional sealants where the pillar meets the roof rail as and example?

Thanks!
 

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Hi All, I have a couple of questions for those that have installed roof rail channel. I have my windows in, but not aligned and adjusted yet. I plan to use double sided black foam tape to seal the channel to the body. is there anything else I should do? Does anyone have any tricks to ensure I get leak free results? Is anyone adding any additional sealants where the pillar meets the roof rail as and example?

Thanks!
I'm not maybe the smartest guy here on this, but I might consider that foam could absorb and hold moisture ... not the best situation.

I used this product. It comes in a few various forms. It can be purchased at places like Home Depot in a block configuration, where you can pinch or break of a piece and roll it into a string for use. This particular form I purchased at an HVAC supplier where it is already sort of a ribbon.


DSC_2191 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
 

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If I recall correctly, mine had a double sided tape like substance originally. It was like 1-1.5" wide down the entire channel. I know that is what was on it as it was a pain to get off. Ended up using an eraser wheel on it. I put 3M double side tape on it when I re installed it. Don't forget the screws go on there too. I'm sure others will chime in with what they used as well.
 

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Originally is was dense foam. A pillars used a caulking product. Those who have done many cars have encountered difficulty when removing said product because the petroleum product has broken down. Same as any new product used today.

If you use double sided tape, it will be difficult to adjust the channel. At the factory, the windows were aligned with a setting block, and the channel aligned to the windows afterwards. Use single sided foam. Cars I've done decades ago are not leaking and they get driven in the rain and washed.

Larry is mentioning a product similar to 3M Strip Caulk available at shop suppliers, which is another alternative. Commonly used in the auto body industry. Not as adjustable with ease, but an option.

Pretty simple. Achieve a sealer using common sense and be done with it. Don't use seam sealer. Sealers used should be non-hardening.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Originally is was dense foam. A pillars used a caulking product. Those who have done many cars have encountered difficulty when removing said product because the petroleum product has broken down. Same as any new product used today.

If you use double sided tape, it will be difficult to adjust the channel. At the factory, the windows were aligned with a setting block, and the channel aligned to the windows afterwards. Use single sided foam. Cars I've done decades ago are not leaking and they get driven in the rain and washed.

Larry is mentioning a product similar to 3M Strip Caulk available at shop suppliers, which is another alternative. Commonly used in the auto body industry. Not as adjustable with ease, but an option.

Pretty simple. Achieve a sealer using common sense and be done with it. Don't use seam sealer. Sealers used should be non-hardening.
Keith, Scott & Larry - thanks for the voice of experience. I do have the dense foam style which is sticky on both sides. I'm reinstalling the original channel which has screw head impressions which I think will allow me to index the screws and install the channel as it came from the factory. I don't trust the foam alone to seal at the joint in the channel at the top of the A pillar. I think I'm going add something non-hardening to the area as an extra measure.

Any additional suggestions? Thanks!
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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I used single sided topper mounting foam tape. It's designed to seal and withstand weather.
Being single sided it allowed movement of the channel with weather strip installed to align
with the window(s). I worked all parts as needed before screwing the channel in place. Glass
adjustments effect weather strip and vise versa. The most critical area for me was the quarter
glass to door glass alignment. There's not much room for error.
 

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I used single sided topper mounting foam tape. It's designed to seal and withstand weather.
Being single sided it allowed movement of the channel with weather strip installed to align
with the window(s). I worked all parts as needed before screwing the channel in place. Glass
adjustments effect weather strip and vise versa. The most critical area for me was the quarter
glass to door glass alignment. There's not much room for error.
I haven’t done mine yet but I purchased single sided foam tape like Al. It’s made for windows so it is designed to seal out weather, and will allow for adjustability. The strip caulk will certainly work but I wanted to avoid battling the caulk when it comes time to align everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I mentioned single sided foam as a preference, and in other threads.. Seems many missed it. I'd have to dig for John Z's pic of the factory setting block. I've been doing this for a long time and alignment of OEM glass is no big deal. Just takes patience.
Scott, if you find the pic of the setting block would really like to see it - thanks!

AND.... All the talk of single sided foam made me take a better look at what I have. I just pulled back the first coil of foam and found the roll I have is single sided adhesive. The manufacturer used an additional adhesive on the first few inches of the first coil to keep the roll from uncoiling.

Boy oh boy... I'm feeling pretty dumb right now. :nerd:
 
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