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Hey guys, I'm ready to start on the interior of my '67 and was wondering if anybody has tried the rolled insulation from J C Whitney. I definitely want to kill as much road noise and radiant heat as possible, but at the same time I don't want to spend a ton of money on dynamat if I can get comparable results with something more reasonably priced. I've looked into past posts on the subject but haven't heard of anyone with personal experience with the stuff from J C W. If anyone out there has any input I'd like to hear it. Thanks in advance guys!
 

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I used the rolled insulation from JC Whitney along with the spray adhesive (similar to 3M) and aluminum tape. Everything worked great. The car is quieter inside (well as quiet as it can get). And, without air it actually stays cooler than it did before. I have an extra unopened roll if you are interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for your help guys. Car is in the paint shop right now. Soon as I get it back and together I'll post some pics.
 

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Tucson, I used the brown bread-it is VERY quiet inside now. Did the rear deck from the rear window down the floor up under the dash as far as I could reach(double on the tunnel). Removed the glove box and did as much up/under there as I could. Behind the door panels on the inside door skin, and most of the outer door skin. As far as I could reach on the qrtr skin from the rear qrtr window.It costs me $180.00 shipping included.Use the best you can afford. Tom.
 

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How does any of it hold up to moisture? Most of us have leaky cars and some of the stuff REALLY holds water that seeps in......rusty floors result :eek:

joe
 

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Has anyone thought of using the adhesive-backed rubberized roofing material as sound insulation? Do you think this would work? A 3ft x 48ft roll is less than $40 at either Lowes or Home Depot. What do you think?

Rick
 

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The brown bread is an asphalt based product with a sticky back and aluminum face sheet. I cut mine to size and stuck it in, then heated with a heat gun. Could see it mold right to the shape of the metal behind it. I also used a roller to help it conform to the surface. Don't think any moisture will get behind it. Tom.
 

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Good question....

I'm shooping around now also. I took a tape measure to the body the other day to estimate what I'd need.

- Doors (inside shell) are about 8 sq. ft. each.
- The floor alone from firewall to seat\trunk divider is approx. 5' x 7' = 35 sq. ft.
- Firewall is approx. 5 sq. ft.
- Inside rear panels on quarters is approx. 4sq. ft. each.

Somewhere around 64 sq. ft total.


I didn't measure anything else. I was thinking of doing all around in the trunk as well, but I'm going to upholster\box mine in.
 

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I bought 100 square feet of FatMat and probably used about 75' of it on my car... that included going up the firewall a ways, double layering the entire floor, and doing the rear package tray, rear wheel tubs and a rear firewall I put in. I didn't put any in the doors... yet.

Anyway, it made a big difference! This stuff looks like butyl with a foil backing to it. Goes on easily, easy to work with, and inexpensive (100' shipped was about $125). Supposedly doesn't hold moisture either.

Only problem I had was that shipping took about three weeks. Also, it isn't the best at insulating against heat.

The other more expensive stuff probably works better... it has more weight to it and is thicker. For my purposes though, this stuff worked great. I can talk over my 40 series flowmasters!
 

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the FatMat stuff you linked to is what I used. My previous post goes into detail. You can find more info on their website at www.fatmat.com if I remember right.
 

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I bought some stuff called The Insulator from Jegs. It was $34.99 for 48"x72" sheet. I bought two. It was the Super Insulator which consist of a aluminum barrier on both sides and a cloth material in the middle and is fire retardant to 400 degrees. Its supposed to guard against noise, moisture and cold. I bought some 3m spray glue and everything came out pretty well. You can sort of bend it into place and it will pretty much retain the shape of the floor. Haven't driven the car yet, but I know it will be much quieter based on how thick this stuff is. I'm sure dynamat or the other stuff will dampen noise better, but if your looking for a cheaper alternative, its not to bad.
 

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I used stuff called Death Metal and it layed in nicely with a wooden roller. Its foil on one side and rubberized compound with peel off sticky layer of wax paper. I doubled up at foot well where exhaust heat can build up and I doubled up on the tunnel since the pipes lay under there, I also doubled up under the rear seat since thats where the mufflers are. I didnt do the doors since Ive not had them apart yet but might someday for sound.
It was kinda fun and not messy at all. I bought 100' of 18" and had about 25' left over.
I also used Gray POR on my floors after sanding clean to prevent rust.
Here are a few pics.


 

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Jim-You leave the steering wheel in so you can still drive it in the garage while it's under rebuild. Whaaaa Whaaaa Errrrr Whaaaa Whaaa
 
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