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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 67 Camaro and it has a 350 in it. Well I installed Edelbrock cam #7102 which specs as follows: 234/244 @.050" .488/.510 @valve and 112* lobe seperation. My problem is that at idle or when backing up I only have one or two, if I'm lucky, power brake applications before it loses vacuum. If the engine is at any RPM other than idle it's fine. it's only when I'm idling or backing up. I'm sure it has to do with the cam, but is there anything I can do to help it? I have replaced the check valve on the booster, but nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Rojo. How does the resivoir canister work? Does it store enough vacuum to work the brakes? how many applications will it be good for? You have the canister or the pump?
 

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Vacuum line to reservoir then line from reservoir to booster. I can't honestly say how many applications you'd get at idle, I guess it would vary depending on cam, etc. It would obviously run out at some point unless you got above idle to replenish it. It has worked for me in normal driving conditions. A pump would be a 100% cure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How about hydroboost? Do you know anyone who has converted to hydroboost?
 

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Forgot about that option. There's several here that have, maybe they'll chime in.
 

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How about hydroboost? Do you know anyone who has converted to hydroboost?
I'm running Hydratech's hydroboost kit on my '68. Not cheap, but works great.

There's also someone on the forum here who put together his own hydroboost really cheap out of junkyard parts. Should show up in a search.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys. I think I am going to go with Hydroboost. It may be a little more, but it looks great under the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey Rodder, I found a Hydratech Hydro-Boost unit from a company called Savitske. They are charging $690.00 for a complete kit, lines and fittings. I can also add a matching master cylinder for an additional $90.00. Does that sound like it's pretty reasonable? How much did you pay for your kit and did you have to buy a bunch of additional parts? How difficult was the kit to install? Was it a direct bolt on? If not, what type of hick-ups did you encouter? Thanks for any help you can offer.
 

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first of all - you need power steering to use hydroboost! (I suppse you could use a dedicated PS pump for the booster and still use manual steering - not positive, though)

The price Mark at SC&C has is $5 less than if you bought it directly from Hydratech. I would call Paul at Hydratech and talk to him. He knows his stuff. (That's not to say Mark doesn't - I've had several loooong conversations with him) If your current MC is in good shape, he might recommend that you keep it, and in the process not spend $90 needlessly - he recommended I keep mine.

The install is very straightforward. Basically, you eliminate your current high pressure PS hose. You run a new pressure line from the back of the pump to the hydroboost. You run another pressure line from the booster to the PS box. Both the booster and the steering box have low pressure return lines to the pump. Easiest is to "T" the booster return line into the PS return line, or ytou can install an additional return fitting on the PS pump. I used the "T" - that's what the kit comes with. All very high quality parts.

The hydroboost bolts to the firewall using the stock mount location. It uses the upper hole in the brake pedal. Pretty simple install. There is a chance you might have to reconfigure some of your hard brake lines. I didn't "have" to, but I did anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks BPOS. By the way, what made you say "first of all - you need power steering to use hydroboost!"? My car has power steering. I haven't purchased the kit yet, but I was on Hydratech's website and it actually comes out to be $5.10 more than the Savitske website. My M/C is brand new, but it is a little rusty. I may get a new one for that factor alone. I hope the hydroboost unit comes with a durable finish. I would hate to spend all that money and have it look like crap in a month or two.
 

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After trying a canister and then a pump I bit the bullet and had Paul hook me up. Boy,did it bring my 13 inch Baers to life! Both Paul and Mark are great (my UCA's are arriving on Wednesday from Mark at SC&C), so you can't go wrong either way.

I have had my hydraboost on for almost a year and it looks like it came out of the box. I wouldn't worry about the finish.

Good Luck!

Eric
 

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By the way, what made you say "first of all - you need power steering to use hydroboost!"? .
'Cause a lot of folks do searches here for info, and not everyone realizes that hydroboost runs off the PS pump.

The boost unit is painted glossy black and is held together with very nice chrome socket head capscrews. The firewall mount is polished aluminum, and nitrogen reservoir is anodized in your choice of silver, blue or gold. I got silver. I'd say it's show quality stuff, while the rest of my car isn't.
 

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Hey Rodder, I found a Hydratech Hydro-Boost unit from a company called Savitske. They are charging $690.00 for a complete kit, lines and fittings. I can also add a matching master cylinder for an additional $90.00. Does that sound like it's pretty reasonable? How much did you pay for your kit and did you have to buy a bunch of additional parts? How difficult was the kit to install? Was it a direct bolt on? If not, what type of hick-ups did you encouter? Thanks for any help you can offer.
I paid $695 for my system (plus $19 shipping) direct from Paul at Hydratech. He also set me up with the correct lines/fittings to use with my LS1 pump, included in the standard $695 price. Paul recommended I try my old master cylinder first see how it works. So I originally used my old (well, 2 yr old) power disc/drum master cylinder. I had a soft pedal and ended up replacing it with a C3 Vette cylinder (1 1/8 bore, deep rod) from Napa. I think I paid $80 at Napa. If I had to do it over, I'd just buy a cylinder from Hydratech in the first place and have a little more confidence in the quality of the parts that whatever the off-brand unit is that I got from Napa.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks ew68bb and BPOS. I am going to order my kit today. Hey BPOS, I read that you kept your M/C. What condition was it in? Mine is only a few months old and it has rust on it. It operates fine, but I am concerned about installing a beautiful new Hydro-boodt unit with an slightly rusty M/C. It's not too too bad, but it does have some rust on it. I don't know what to do. How can I keep the rust off it? Do the M/C's Hydratech offer come with a show finish or are they just a OEM finish? Thanks for the help guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey Rodder, does the larger bore make the pedal have to travel further before stopping? How much pressure does it now take to get the car to stop?
 

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My MC was also only a few months old. It's a Bendix 1 1/8" bore disc/drum master. Funny thing, I swapped to 4 wheel discs, and Paul said this was still an excellent MC to use, even with the residual pressure valve. We'll see how it works. He told me they have done quite a bit of testing with a disc/drum MC on a 4 wheel disc system and noticed no adverse heat build up in the rear brakes. He also stated it is a "fix" that he recommends for pad knockback in a C-clip type axle.

My MC was rusty too - I wire wheeled it and painted it gloss black to match the Hydroboost.

 

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Hey Rodder, does the larger bore make the pedal have to travel further before stopping? How much pressure does it now take to get the car to stop?
Larger bore means shorter travel and more effort. Either way with the Hydratech, all you have to do is look at the brake pedal too hard and it'll put you through the windshield--very little effort at all. I think their hydroboost unit comes from a Chevy 3500HD truck.
 
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