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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for an opinion on this topic for my 69. I'm in the midst of a rear end rebuild and could look at adding a sway bar, or else keeping it stock. I'm not rally racing this car- any real benefits to this customization?

thanks
 

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I can say it helped quite a bit with keeping a tight fitting wheel/tire combo from rubbing on my 69. As for performance I cant comment because it was strictly a cruiser.
 

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Hey Brian,
Back when Herb Adams suspension components were being marketed through Moroso,( long before companies like hotchkis,Comp enginering, or DSE even existed) I installed a thicker front bar, and added a rear one on my 67. I was very surprised at the difference it made in the way my car felt and handled as just a daily driven street car. So much so , that as of this writing, as I am currently going through another rebuild phase on my 69, I have already ordered a hotchkis TVS kit for it. No plans on track time or racing, but if for no other reason, the difference in the way it will drive on the street, yeah, in my opinion, it will definately enhance the driving experiance .
Just my opinion....
 

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How does your car handle without it? Does it understeer (front end plows into a corner)? A little understeer is a bit safer (easier to recover from) than having the back end come around on you in a corner. Adding a rear swaybar can help balance out understeer but then it also can create an oversteer condition if it's too much for the car.

Check this link out... http://www.nyracer.com/overunder.htm
 

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Make sure your buying the latest kit from Hotchkiss. The older kits had mount in the floor that was not so nice to the pans. The new kit fixes that and makes the mount much more solid.

I notice a real difference in handling on a 68 I had with the old hotchkiss rear bar. Did not create an over steer condition on that car. It was basically the TVS set up just pieced together from used parts purchases.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Eric- Pozzi article is great. My conclusion is that the rear sway bar probably isn't a big upgrade unless other things on the car have been changed from custom then it may actually be necessary. Also, I do believe that even in a stock configuration, it probably does improve things as fellow enthusists have written.

Dennis- The over-steer and under-steer article was very informative. I like the checklist of conditions to observe/remedies.



I bought my '69 when I was 19. I can recall how well it cornered and handled in the early years I owned it, and it did those well. For the last 15 years though, the car has been in storage and taken down the road just on occasion, mostly to keep it runing. Maybe 6 years ago I noticed that something had changed. At normal highway speeds the car felt wobbly like it wanted to leap off the road with the slightest turn of the stearing wheel. I had a shop inspect the car and do an alignment but they never found any problem. I also at that point had replaced the front springs with new ones at stock height.

This past year I upgraded the rear end, and when I removed the 8.2'' axle I noticed that passenger side multi leaf was broken 4 of 5 leaves. Driver side 3 of 5. The breaks were in proximity of the perches. Perhaps the lack of lateral stiffness in the rear was causing the over-stear condition. Best I can explain it, all the years the car sat took a toll. I'm lucky I didn't outright lose the axel on the highway and I'm here now to tell the story.

I'm not connecting this experience with wanting a sway bar, as I know the car never had one and there was a day that it felt fine. But I am very HOPEFUL that the broken springs are why the car felt so spooky. Could that be the cause?
 

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At normal highway speeds the car felt wobbly like it wanted to leap off the road with the slightest turn of the stearing wheel. I had a shop inspect the car and do an alignment but they never found any problem. I also at that point had replaced the front springs with new ones at stock height
For year I had that, only slightly...
Put a new ball hoint in and needed a realignment.
The caster camber was still the same as a few yrs back.
I mentioned it was a bit light in the steering up round the 60 mph..slight understeer in sweeping cnrs.
He explaned that as the speed increases then front wheels tend to splay out a little, and put a couple mm more into the toe, and ajusted different each side to allow for running on the left hand side of the road.
those couple mm made a huge difference.

If u want good alginment, it cant be done unless there is NO pay anywhere in the steering suspension geomerty except mabe be a couple thou in bottom joints which is normal....And an alignment guy should check all that before even starting an alignment....99% dont and assume u have done so and fixed before hand, then take your money for a job that cant be done correct.
 

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I tried the rear bar and took it immediately off. Hated it.

Get a solid 1" front bar, Hotchkiss 2" lowering springs for the front and replace all the rubber bushings that attach the rear springs.
 

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In general I'm in favor of adding a rear bar, it needs to match the front bar, - both bars should be from the same MFR's kit. The more fixes you do to the front suspension, the more a rear bar helps keep the car balanced. NEVER add a rear bar if you have a stock front bar.
 

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:yes:i have coil overs ,tube arms, 3 leaf rear 1 and an 8th sway ft. 7/8 rear,q-a ft and rear, car handles great about 1 inch drop
Showoff.:thumbsup:

In general I'm in favor of adding a rear bar, it needs to match the front bar, - both bars should be from the same MFR's kit. The more fixes you do to the front suspension, the more a rear bar helps keep the car balanced. NEVER add a rear bar if you have a stock front bar.
David, one exception is guys are running only a rear bar to aid with a level launch for drag racing. You and I don't have to imagine the disaster if they needed to recover from being out of shape.:cool:
 
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