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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Hey is there a way to tell what brand the axles are or narrow it down to stock or aftermarket just with this pic? pics a 68 12 bolt wilwood conversion black calipers
 

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They don't look stock, but they also don't have the markings of a high end axle like strange or Mosure. Could just be an aftermarket stock replacement with long studs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok. All the lug nuts where frozen. Well one actually still is :) I thought I would just bang out these old studs and slap in some new proper length ones. But of course theres no room behind the axle hub to back them out all the way. On top of that I tried a sledgehammer on the snapped off stud and it wont budge.
So looks like I'll need to pull the axles and have them pressed out. I know this moser rear end is from summit theres a good chance the axles are summit house brand or similar.

thanks!
 

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If you don't want to pull the axels you could cut them down and press them out. You will have enough room then. I wouldn't beat the snot out of them. Recently someone showed in a thread like a month or so ago with a pitman arm puller or something like that.
 

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View attachment 298535 View attachment 298536 Hey is there a way to tell what brand the axles are or narrow it down to stock or aftermarket just with this pic? pics a 68 12 bolt wilwood conversion black calipers
That
Ok. All the lug nuts where frozen. Well one actually still is :) I thought I would just bang out these old studs and slap in some new proper length ones. But of course theres no room behind the axle hub to back them out all the way. On top of that I tried a sledgehammer on the snapped off stud and it wont budge.
So looks like I'll need to pull the axles and have them pressed out. I know this moser rear end is from summit theres a good chance the axles are summit house brand or similar.

thanks!
I would cut them flush to the flange with a wiz wheel, spray the mounting area with PB Blaster or equivalent, and drive them out with a BFH and punch.
standard axle pic uploaded
 

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Pulling the axle out is not difficult, you could then press old out and new in. you probably should do both sides.

Using a BFH always makes me nervous, you are also hammering the carrier bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've never had an issue getting 7/16 stock studs out. These are a lot beefier 1/2 x 3. Like mention before I hit it good with a 2lb and no go. I have a buddy with a machine shop. It will give me a reason to go say hi. Also check out under the cover. It should be like new but we will see.
 

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They don't look threaded in studs to me. They look press in from the picture.The ball joint tool is a good idea.👍🇺🇸
 

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I agree, just a caution of the possibility. Pounding or pressing a threaded fastener could make for a long day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes they are pressed in. Another reason I wanted to open this up and see what was going on behind the rotor. I like the ball joint press idea.
Does anyone know why you would put 3in studs on torque thrusts? I think possibly it was a trend mid 2000s? I kind of remember long studs and/or pointy lugs where a thing at some point.
 

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Does anyone know why you would put 3in studs on torque thrusts?
Aside of being what someone had available relacing studs, but as mentioned PO could have run a diffrent set of rims/tires (I do) at the 1/4 mi with longer lug nuts (more thread grab). NHRA tech inspection just needs to see exposed studs with nuts, can't run "hub caps" or caps over mag wheel lug nut area
 

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Aside of being what someone had available relacing studs, but as mentioned PO could have run a diffrent set of rims/tires (I do) at the 1/4 mi with longer lug nuts (more thread grab). NHRA tech inspection just needs to see exposed studs with nuts, can't run "hub caps" or caps over mag wheel lug nut area
True
 
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