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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Having issues with my starting.

History before issue:
Camaro was insure for the spring summer season, started up perfectly after a few pumps of the accelerator, tank was topped up before having it sit for 4-5 months. Battery wires were removed when parked, and re-attached when ready to drive. Drove around for a few weeks, no issues what so ever.

Issue:
Problem started about 3 weeks in, after driving the camaro for 5-6 times. I drove it home from the gym, and turned it off, tried to restart it, and all i hear is a click, tried ignition again, and i hear a click again. I figured it was my starter, pinion not meshing with my flywheel. Jacked up the car, the starter was bolted tight and hadnt moved (from what i think). Tried to start the car, and it started up right away, pulled i out of the garage, turned it off, tried again, and click came back. Pushed it back in teh garage and figure ill deal with teh issue later. Today i tried it again, and it started right up, turned it off, tried again, started. Did that about 2-3 times, and then tried on the 4th time, this time, no click, just silence? Waited about 15-20 mins, tried again, and it started up again.

Fix:
I figure its obvious ignition related, whether my starter is no god, my battery is too low (lights and radio work when car is turned to ign hot). My volt gauge states 12-13 when i turn the key to ign hot, after it is start, it goes to about 14. I am running a points msd distributor with a msd coil.

Any idea where i should start to look? Could it be my starter solenoid? Could it be my battery, a ground?

Appreciate any thoughts or ideas.
Thanks

Vic
 

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Could be a couple items.
Remove the battery cables and clean/wire brush both ends and what they attach/sit on.
Move engine negative cable from the alternator bracket to the engine block.
Make sure cable wire gauge is min of 1 AWG with molded clamps.

Exchange the battery with a daily driver battery and compare results.
It could be the Camaro battery has sulphated and no longer holds its capacity.
A battery not used will develop a crystalline substance across the plates.
The only way to break down the sulphate is to either overcharge it heavily, or put a heavy load onto it, any action to heat the electrolyte, boil off the sulphate.
The sulphate will never leave, but it can be reduced.

Yes, the solenoid could be at fault and it needs the end cap pulled off and rotate the studs and disc inside, reassemble.

I would check the battery cables and their condition first. Replace if poses a question.
Then swap in a daily driver battery and compare results.
I go for the next wire bigger than 1 AWG, 0 or 00 AWG.
 

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X2 to what Everett said. I'd check and clean battery posts/connections first, then other ends of battery cables (ground to engine block on negative and solenoid stud on positive cable). Next I'd check the contacts inside the solenoid, repair or replace as required.
 

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Like Everret .. get the battery load tested... cheap.
The car has sat for a while, have u kept the battery 'topped up" a must for storage.
Check connected , teminals, including alternator, starter, battery.
If starter and your description , if all the above sweet, comes down to starter... get it load tested when they check the battery...
Even so the starter may pss, if low on the scale, starter...which could be solenoid termals inside (copper disc) turned 180 degs, or worn bearings bushes, or armiture over time, and often due to to high intial advance, has dry connections in the windings...ok when cold, open when warm.
If starter replace is the simplest soln... thu u could rebuild at 1/2 the cost... older posts how to..its not rocket science about 1hr to 1 1/2 hrs.

The other curly one is old wiring, espec if at some piont the wires to the started have been beifly shorted... this oxides, (as with age) the outer layer of each strand of copper in the wire...electricity runs down the outside of the strands, not the middle... the oxidisation creates residtance, voltage/ current drop , lack of energy to turn starter over effective... soln is a relay mounted on the firewall above that starter , using the starter ing wire to switch the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the post, i'll take the advice and look into these possible solutions.

Also, my GEN dummy light came on every so often before the issue happened. Could this be a sign? What does it mean when the GEN dummy light comes on?
 

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gen light messing up can also be ground issue,,,after working over cables as mentioned, double check ground to inner fender too. In fact, check all ground locations. :)
 

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If the above is ok, similar issues as my post above..
Except rebuilding the alternator is more simple...sorta
In most cases simply replacing the end bushes/bearings, clean up , and smooth off the comunator on the armiture (how to in older threads) is enough.
Once in a while u may have a dud diode and even rarer a bad armiture...these are a mission the check out, involves un soldering re soldering using special solders etc...
As in my previous post, a workshop will have 21st technology tools to quickly check battery, starter and alternator....generally this will take the 'risk' out of rebuilding a dud diode.

I would be checking your grounds ....
I run my -ve battery terminal to the bottom alternator mounting bolt...this gives direct connections to starter/ alternator/ ign etc... and the factory ground straps from the engine to chassis and body. for the rest of the car electrics.
 

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Check to see if the screws that attach the solenoid to the starter nose are tight. I used solid motor mounts one time years ago to see what effect it would have on vibration on a street car and found that the car had start issues the same as yours. Found the screws to mount the solenoid were backing out. That's a ground issue there. Might be worth a look anyway.
 
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