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Discussion Starter #1
They say the first cut is the deepest.. lol
Undoing someone else's butchery sucks. I'm sure this would have been more fun starting with a stock inner wheel well. They had home made mini tubs held in by 100 sheet metal screws and some kind of body filler/seam sealer/panel bond and a few spot welds. I cut out what I could with the sawzall to make it easier to start grinding on the stuff they have the seems attached with.
I've never done this before and I feel like i'm in way over my head.. hopefully I can get this all cleaned up and new mini tubs in without losing my mind.

Resized_20201222_200115 by F G, on Flickr

Resized_20201222_200257 by F G, on Flickr
 

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Frame rails look very solid. You are lucky....

Don
 
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Did one of those my self because my friend got a good deal, sight unseen for $150! Kept the roof. . . . .everything else was replaced. After the sheetmetal and paint he gave up and it came to my shop. He invested 10K, I added another 14K both of us doing the work ourself . . . . .nothing but a headache. I sold the finished Lemans/Black 350, 4 SPD, 12 Bolt, PDB, X44, nice enough to take best Camaro at the Autofair. . . . .sold for 39K. The one before was a pristine one owner, no rust CA car RSSS bought in 07 for 17K, finished in 1/4 the time. . . . .total invest 40k. Been offered 80K and a coupla more in that price range, not for sale. . . . .see my Avatar. Moral of the story, you may pay more upfront for a solid car but save on the backend in time, frustration and money. Hats off to the guys that start from scratch. . . . .just an old guy talkin.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I know i'm overthinking it and way ahead of myself, but, Not having the original wheel tubs in it, I'm concerned about where to cut the frame .. i hope the template for the underside helps with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Some of the things people do really make you scratch your head. Just take your time and you will be fine!
Pretty sure this was an old drag car at one point in it's life so the homemade mini tubs kind of make sense. Maybe i'm just being too nice ... lol
 

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Tim - The Northwest 1969 Camaro
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I bought a house a few years back in SoCal that was one of those where you wished the prior owner had never touched anything. Came home one day and a 15 foot circle of lawn had turned into a grassy water bed. Turns out PO installed an entire sprinkler system in the back yard with no glue - he thought PVC was a press fit. I think I dug up no less than 12 - 15 joints. Go figure.
 

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Umm, I'd like to give a little advice. Use at least some 1x1 steel tubing instead of rebar. Rebar is very flimsy and is not the best to use for your intended usage. Just my 2 cents.

Scot
 

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Brett - Leander, Texas 1969 SS396
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.......And, put glue in your PVC joints!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The rebar is holding the right side trunk brace, nothing else. It's welded to the other side which is still welded solid to the other inner wheel well.. it's holding just fine for it's intended purpose
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The rebar is doing very little to hold the unibody together. Note the term unibody. The surrounding structure if it is solid is maintaining integrity. Frame and bodywork 101.
It's not holding the unibody.. not even sure how you think that it is
 

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I wouldn’t concern yourself at this point so much with supporting the trunk hinges unless you are removing exterior sheet metal. Once you get the new mini tubs fitted the trunk hinge mounts will be reconfigured and it will make sense how they align when you get to the point of reinstalling them. If I was you I would purchase the DSE mini tub kit, watch their install video on YouTube enough times until you are comfortable and hit it hard. This work is not rocket science but mostly patience and common sense. You need self confidence too but that comes with experience. Reach out to me if you need advice. Not trying to sound like a know it all but I feel I have enough subject matter knowledge I can help you if needed. The DSE kit comes with templates and had to screw it up if you take your time.
 

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I understand that. I did weld a bar from my trunk hinge to the under side of the package tray under the rear window. What I found was it was a waste of time. Once you have the new inner wheel wells in place then you have to cut the braces loose in order to get enough movement in order to line up your rear filler panel height. If the OP is not removing quarters and rear window filler panel there’s going to be such a minor amount of movement in those hinges it’s not worth worrying about. Because I took mine to the Shell there was a significant amount of movement if I didn’t brace them. Since all he is doing is the inner wheel houses I would just wedge some wood blocks under the hinges to support the little bit of movement.Just trying to assure the OP that it’s nothing to stress over.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Please take lots of pictures. I have dreams (maybe nightmares) of tackling this some day but pretty far over my head. I did finally buy a welder so one of my primary excuses is out the window.
Mines not a good one for pictures. Someone in a previous life made mini tubs and I had to cut it all out and make filler pieces where it was cut way too much for the DSE tubs. If I had the time and proper tools, I'd do a trunk pan and at the bare minimum, rear floor pans but, patch pieces will have to do for now.
I'm in the process of doing the DSE trunk closeout corners, and doing them a little different than normal due to the previous butchery had big holes in the trunk pan where the top of the relocated shocks poked through.. Add to that, I'm not a welder but I'm becoming a pretty damn good grinder :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
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