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Discussion Starter #1
Wish me good luck.:yes:
This is gonna be a close one. I fear I'm off a quarter inch. The new slicks won't be here until Friday. They are 28X12.5X15 MT's. The section is listed at 12.6" on a 10" wheel. Here's the wheel. It has 5.5 BS. I had to relocate the bottom of the shock. It now has 1/8" clearance on both the wheel and J bolts. If the tire rubs, it'll be against the inner fender. Cornering doesn't count, these tires are slicks. I've got a set of Hoosiers picked out with the same thread width but 1" narrower section. Gotta wash the burnout mud.:D
 

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Fred good luck.

I don't think you will be able to fit a 12" slick back there and is that a stock 12-bolt wit disk or drum brakes. I thought a 9" slick was the tightest we can put back there.
 

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Fred... If you have long studs, put a 1/8 washer on the stud before the rim is mounted. If you have an 1/8th and add the washer the 1/4 inch total may be what the doctor ordered. Maybe :)

Kev
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks Skip. My other set is ten inches wide on the tread. The MT spec's are narrower. Go figure? But they are only 26" tall (24" on car with 12psi) The side wall is only 4"!:sad: But they work OK. I just want MORE. Does that make me a drag racer? (And yes, original stuff)

Kevin, My studs are the minimum. I'll need new ones with any thicker hub/spacer. No sweat, probably time to change them anyway. And yes, It looks like a quarter inch out will work, but if I mount the tire to check, Summit says I own them. Can a tire be mounted so nobody can tell after it's pulled off?:D

And what do you guys think of this Hoosier? It's an INCH narrower on the same wheel with the same thread and a they're radial and don't need me to swap my inner tubes from the old set. That's $120 saved from swapping but the other set is worthless without tubes. Plus the MT tubes meant that I had to drill the valve stem boss to get the tube stem through the hole. Doesn't that wreck a wheel for any other stem? Why do they make them that way? And, of course, with the tubes still in my other set, they are ready to go whether to a swap meet or as a loner. (my son) hmm. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOO-17317/
Here's the old ones. Take a peek while I call Summit. The lead time for another set, if all tires come out of Ohio is a week. That's cutting it close. And I can refuse the MT's. I refused a nearly identical set of wheels that came with the new set yesterday because of customer stupidity. (wrong BS)
 

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Based on the dimensions you posted it sounds like you ordered some ET Streets. I don't know if that will clear. It's gonna be real close Fred!

With stock wheel tubs I ran 28X10 Hoosier slicks on a 10" rim. The section width on them were right at 12.0". They would rub on the inside when I turned and rub slightly on the outside if I hit a decent bump.

Good luck! :beers:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Steve. Check out my previous post. I added more info and more questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
And Steve, yeah, ET Streets. Also moving outboard would give me a little more clearance because the wheel wells were 'Portapowered' out by me 30 years ago. Can you tell? I picked up over a half inch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Steve, you convinced me. I checked with Summit. They won't be mad at me if I refuse the MT's because I don't make a habit of refusing their stuff and also tires and wheels can be a bitch to size right. The Hoosiers are on their way. And they are close, from Nevada, and that means the same arrival, on Friday as the MT's. This is so much fun.:noway:
 

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No, can't tell that you used a port-a-power on them! The Hoosiers will fit. :beers:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cool. Thanks!
 

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Fred, I just like you have always wanted as much tire as possible without butchering my all original sheetmetal 69 heres what works for me.hoosier is the only one that makes just the right size slick,its a10.0/29.0 15 and their quick time pro 29.0/11.5 15 are almost identical in size . I run them on a 8" weld wheel with 4 1/2 back space. they are 92-93 round (every set varies) are 12" at the sidewall and actually 11" at the tread although the wear pattern indicates im not using all of it because of the 8" wheel.My car at rest sits 27" floor to wheel opening mldg, slight roll of the factory lip and slight hammering of inner wheelhouse(nothing that can be detected from inside the trunk.At 11psi and a 135-136mph pass it will barely graze and blacken the mldng at the front of the wheelwell rocker area and the very back of the mldg at the rear lower 1/4.also rubs inner wheelhouse but not enough to mar or cut the sidewall.Been runnin this way for years never tore off a moulding or cut a tire.Out side side wall is extremely close but has never marked a tire.I cant imagine a tighter package .The 10" rim may cause the sidewall to bulge just a little too much.I might add i went through a lot of work to center the rear side to side and front to back in the opening.Sorry no picture posting yet,am working on it. eric
 

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Sorry ,forgot to add the 275 radial will fit noproblem but if you really want them to work go with the M/T ET street radials . they are proven to be the best. Ive seen 7 sec passes on 275/60 s believe it or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yikes Eric! I've just got a lil ol' stocker,,,, But thank you.
 

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Wow! Summit is COOL! I'm gonna refuse the MT's. That means Summit gets stuck with the freight both ways. I just called them and offered to pay the freight. They said 'no sweat, no need. It's not a high dollar expense'. What a great company!
 

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Yeah, you say that but i see a pattern starting with you. 12.30s,12.20s ,teens now 11s. your gonna put slicks on it and go 11.50s .Next the track will tell you you need a roll bar.Then your good to 10.00s so youll build abigger motor so your almost in the 9s.Oh crap! I just described my last 15 years. loved every minute of it!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
LOL! But I'm safe. I'll quit at 11.5 sec. My sailboat seen in my link is 23 years old. I bought it new. I do NOT look at other boats because they might be too tempting and cost BIG bucks. Obviously I haven't bought a new F body. Well, there was that new 79 T/A.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
UPDATE.
Yesterday I had the tires mounted,,,,,,,,,,,,,. Yep. On my 10" wheels, the section width came to 12 3/8". Damn. Now what?
I brought them home to the car of course and called Summit this morning. I asked that they work with me on these tires. They checked the Hoosier catalog and the section width is even less than what's on Summits' site. And that info comes from the manufacturer. The salesman could only suggest what we've already talked about; wheel spacers and the like.
Oh, I forgot. Last night my wife helped me pull the bottom stud from the passenger side air shock. They are Mr. Gasket Super Drag Shocks and are going on 40 years old. I don't have a press. We used my vise and sockets. Whew. After the stud came out I flipped it 180° so the shock would mount with the air valve inlet away from the tire sidewall. It was just too close. Success.
Then the tire and wheel were bolted on. I have less than 1/8" clearance on the inside wheel well. Same on the drivers side. And that side looked even closer. But NO FEAR. Eric said to hammer the inner lips. I did, (using a wood block) but only to the drivers side. I also drilled a new hole in the lift bars so as to move the shock inboard. That worked great. Not only does it clear the wheel now, but the air inlet clears without having to rotate the shock.
OK, time for a road test. No rubbing down my driveway. Out to the road for a left hand curve. This tests the right tire that I didn't hammer the inner well. It scraped. And that's the direction I have to turn for the return road at the track. On the same corner, going the opposite direction, the drivers side was good. (and the rear end is exactly centered)
So, back to Eric's hammer. The rub spot was clearly visible. Bang Bang. Done. No rub. At least until I left the road and tried to turn around using a steep driveway. That makes the rear twist in an ungodly manner and would not happen on the strip or during most driving. These tires rub less than others I've had. We can even go cruising with them.
Now, these tests were with 15 psi and 70lbs of air in the shocks. They'll pump up to 80 psi once I coast after a run. (the pump is from 1970. It's a vacuum operated high pressure Delco air shock pump. I have two control valves and gauges where the ash tray used to be. The shocks can be independently inflated. It's for racin.;))
I'll get pictures up soon. Wish me luck again. I race tomorrow and all weekend, plus next weekend.
 

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Maybe a rear sway bar could be employed to limit the rear body roll / axle twist and stop the inner wheel rubbing. i noticed when i had a rear bar, the rear body shift was almost zero when turing up or down diagonal curbs, bumps, holes, etc. If you keep hammering, you'll be beating the rear frame rails out of the way soon! (custom mini tubbing?)

admittedly however, im a idiot when it comes to drag racing set ups.
 

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good deal fred, Im glad to hear it worked out . Cant wait to see pics of your new setup and hear your results from the track.Im still not clear on what tire you went with,12 3/8 section width sounds huge for a 275 radial like you linked us to.IF thats the case youll be utilizing every bit of traction available from that tire, great job! Also im pretty sure you saw one of my previous responses to a post about front sway bars and keeping it in place but loosening the frame mounted bushings. this allows the front to rise freely but evenly .
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Maybe a rear sway bar could be employed to limit the rear body roll / axle twist and stop the inner wheel rubbing. i noticed when i had a rear bar, the rear body shift was almost zero when turing up or down diagonal curbs, bumps, holes, etc. If you keep hammering, you'll be beating the rear frame rails out of the way soon! (custom mini tubbing?)

admittedly however, im a idiot when it comes to drag racing set ups.
Joe, we think alike!:thumbsup: I've been running Addco's, front and rear, for nearly 40 years on this car. They sent me a new rear bar last year for FREE. They have a lifetime warranty. And yeah, no way I could run these tires even turning to the return road without this bar.

Here's a look:

 
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