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Hello folks, I'm building a restomod 1969 X33 Z28 that I have been sitting on for a couple years. The car came with matching 12 bolt (rebuilt and nice) rebuilt subframe with original'ish suspension, Wilwoods (for 15" rallys), really good body and floors, and a garage full of parts. Thanks to all the pioneers here over the years, my build will go mostly smooth since you have taken the risk and published your solutions here and on other sites. The build is already a year underway counting the planning, and 6 months into the hard work. I'll start at the begining and post progress up to date. This started with a thread here in 2014 when I was looking for the right paint to get a real'ish Burnished Brown for this car. My inspiration came while driving home in traffic 2010 near my home in Manhattan Beach, CA. Up next to me pulled a Burnished Brown, white striped, white interior Z28. I yelled across to the owner who said he (Jerry) had owned this car original, since he walked off the Navy ship he was serving on in late '69. I met him a few times at local shows and told him one day I'll tribute his car. My car is a Dusk Blue X33 that came with only the matching 12 bolt, nothing else. Since I'm not in posession of the original drive train, I"m building it as a RestoMod I can drive and enjoy. BB is the color I've liked since I was a kid. Build will use a mild LS1, T56, slightly updated interior, Speedhut OBD2 gauges in the stock dash. Here's a picture of how we started.
 

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I have seen Jerry's car at Ruby's, it's a nice example of Burnished Brown. It was original paint when I first saw it, and kind of faded and ugly. The new paint looks great!
 

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Thanks Brian, I'll run the VIN. James - have you seen Jerry or his car in the last two years? I have not seen him or his car and I know he has PK so hope the best. I need to hurry up and finish this or my '67SS and get over to Ruby's this summer!
 

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Since I'm not really doing much custom/pro-tour on this car so I just sent it right to paint. The previous owner had already media blasted the main body (epoxy over it), replaced quarters, replaced floor pan, rebuilt the 12 bolt, rebuilt the stock subframe's suspension, powdercoated suspension and sub, bed liner on the underside (not desireable, but ok for a driver) and interior/floors, and such. My painter didn't like the doors, roof and front fenders, so off to Classic Industries I went (when they had a 20% sale of course). I'll spare you the really boring body work pics and get to the things I started while car was getting all pretty and such: Steering column - located a nice original tilt on craigs, rebuilt it and shot it satin black.
 

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I found a used 2002 F-body LS1 through a local contact Miguel who sources those cars. This engine was painted a lovely light blue and resided in an even more hideous blue and pink '02 SS from the hood. Miguel fired up the engine for me in the car, sounded good, no trouble codes so good to go. The cylinder walls looked really good, mic'd out, and I wiped down the tops of the cylinders. I decided to keep the bottom end together, and just add cam and heads.
 

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I was looking around for a while trying to locate a T56 and all were beat and expensive. Along the way, I bought a '57 Chevy 2-door Hardtop and it was waiting for an engine/trans. So I called Miguel and told him to locate an LS1/T56 for me. Again, I showed up ran the car, jacked it up and went through all the gears with no drama - trans felt good so crossed fingers and bought the drivetrain. He scored, and I had my T56 for the Z build. When I pulled apart the drivetrain, I found a basically brand new clutch the previous owner must have just replaced. I cleaned it up, bolted it to the TSP mod'ed LS1 and into the truck it went.
 

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One other upgrade was a Holley 302-2 LS swap pan. I'm concearned about the fitment, and may have to go with a 302-1 Pan since i'm running stock subframe with stock steering linkages/setup. We'll see when I put it on the engine hoist, but the other LS1 going into the '57 Chevy is already ahead of this build, and we had to swap a 301-1 pan since the 302-2 didn't work....oh well we'll know when we try this next week or so. This is a picture of the 302-1 Pan on the '57 Chevy. Clearance is good, steering clears, and it sits just above the crossmember.
 

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Rustproofing doors 69 camaro Jethro's Burnished Brown 69Z

Living 5 blocks from the Pacific Ocean, my cars get hammered by the environment. I started a trick 8 years ago on all my builds that has saved doors and quarter panels - even if I leave a car on the street, drive it in the rain, etc. Basically, you have to weatherproof the inner metal and most importantly - seal the pinch seam in the doors and quarter panels. THis is easiest when the car has been medial blasted or you're buying new doors. Either way, you can always do your best with a wire brush and POR. If you media blast, go right to epoxy. If new doors, sand down as much as you can (bare metal is best) then epoxy. If old stuff, wire brush the heck out of it, then paint with POR, then scuff, then epoxy. Next, get a tube of 3M body seam sealer and a caulking gun. Tape off the door drain holes (really you probably did this before you hit it with epoxy etc.....just saying) and lay a fat bead in the lower door pinch where the outer skin meets the inner. Same goes for the quarter panel under the quarter windows - there's a small crease under the drain holes. Then after a day of letting the seam sealer dry, shoot the door with bed liner - I use Raptor since its easy and not as messy as Lizard. Keep in mind that when you're shooting bed liner, anything that is not taped off, covered etc. will get over spray and you can not get it off once it dries. Our Camaro doors hold water in the pinch that is below those drain holes. So every time you wash your car, water holds in the doors. So even when you garage your car, your doors and inner quarters have water in them. Here's what it looks like
 

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Rustproofing doors Re: Jethro's Burnished Brown 69Z

When the bed liner dries, I rattle can any areas in the doors I couldn't hit with the bed liner. I then prop the doors up, fill with water and make sure the water drains out the holes. With the 3M goo built up, now the pinch seam is higher than the drain holes, so the water will not pool up in the doors. Even if it did, now with the bed liner you can run a couple gallons in there and not worry about it :yes:
 

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More paint Re: Jethro's Burnished Brown 69Z

Paint Porn. First pic under the lights you can really see the bronze come through. This color is really cool, PPG did well here for us!
 

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Really looking good. Looks like you're really cranking through it. Can't wait to see it finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Honda Prelude Seats & mounts 69 camaro

As much as I love the look of original Camaro seats, I don't enjoy driving in them at all - not even the upgraded bolstered sets. So I typically find another OEM seat and make it work. In my '67 SS/Pro-Tour I used Scion seats since the car is for my vertically challenged wife (yeah she's short :yes:), and the seats adjust up and down. In this car, I found a set of small light and comfortable Honda Prelude seats on Craig'slist for $100. I plan to use a set of Camaro white vynl skins, take out the centers, and custom build them into skins for these seats. All the Japaneese seats have covers that are just clipped in (ie no Hog rings) and you can take them off easy and use (well really my interior guy uses them....) for templates. Since this is a '69 car with an origianlly fat/wide headrest, I'll take the Honda headrest, add a few inches on each side to where it comes close to the shoulder, and skin it with white vinyl. I'l show those pics when I eventually take the seats and car to the interior shop at the end of the build. For now, most important is to get them into the car.
 

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Honda Prelude Seat mounts 69 Camaro

In the past, I fabricated my own seat mounts to fit the OEM Camaro mount holes and Frankenstein them onto the donor seat. This takes days. For this build, I started by purchasing a set of Wedge race seat mounts with holes to match first gen camaro. Now I just have to cut the Prelude tracks, fit in car, tack, then weld them in. This took a half day vs a weekend. I did not photo document this process but here's the steps:
#1 Bolt the Wedge bases into your floors
#2 With a cut-off wheel, cut the Honda tracks in the rear and front to narrow them.
#3 Place the seats in the car, on the bases. You will see you need more cutting on the tracks.
#4 Repeat #3 a few times until the seats go in good.
#5 The tracks may not fit completely onto the Wedge base, so you can alway add metal to support it, just keep going.
#6 When the seats are centered good, get a person in there and make sure you like the forward/backward adjustment (move the seats full forward and back). Also mind the height as this may not work for tall peeps.
#7 Tack the tracks to the base, remove from car
#8 Add any support metal where needed, then fully weld tracks to base
#9 Grind off any sharp corners/edges with a paddle wheel.
Put back into car, make sure all good, then paint the assembly out of the car. You're good to go.
 

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I'll add more pics when we get closer to the end of the build and interior stuff. For now, I just wanted working seats in there since when this goes to interior shop, it will be driven there.
 
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