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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,

Just received my new delco C3 corvette calipers and will be attaching them to my 67 disc spinde/drum hub combo.

I got the JL8 brackets from ebay at a VERY reasonable price (atleast when compared to other prices I've seen). There is a guy that sells them every now and then. These are not techically correct parts as far as I know but serious HD-parts, stamped from something like ~10mm (3/8") steel (not an ad BTW, just thought to help you guys find these if looking).

Back to the original question.....The new delco calipers have only the Caliper to Hose Hard Line inlet boss(threaded hole) but no fitting inside(the small brass part), how do I connect the calipers to my brake lines? Is there a hose (corvette) that goes directly in to these caliper threads and can be used in a camaro? Technically correct way is to include the JL8 Front Caliper to Hose Hard Line

and a Caliper Hose Bracket

and the attach the brake hose to these.
Do I need to get the JL8 Caliper Front Fittings to get the calipers to accept the caliper to hose hard lines?


THANKS!

PS. the pictures are from www.crossram.com, very nice site.
 

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The line should connect the hose, caliper to line. I think those adapters are for when you dont have the right fittings maybe.
As far as i know, the corvette also had the connecting J or L shaped line between hose and caliper like shown in your 1st link, otherwise it would not need the bracket in the 2nd link.

I do know that different years had different fitting sizes at the caliper for the "regular" 67-8 4pot brakes, 7/16 or 1/2... maybe left right differences too? I think the C3 took 3/8 on both ends of the hard line though I could be wrong... but it might explain those adapters. I have not done the swap, though interested in it. Let me know what you find. The rubber hose should be 3/8 female on both ends, but i could be wrong on that too.
 

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If you're just going with disc brakes up front you should be able to use the 67-68 disc brake parts which are a lot cheaper than the JL8 stuff. In 69 they switched to the single piston caliper so the JL8 being the 4 piston calipers used different parts. You might need the JL8 stuff though if you're using the larger Corvette rotor and caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies!

Ohcscott, you are probably right about the fittings. I don't have a 3/8 brake fitting at hand so I cant tell if the threads are 3/8, they seem to be. Can I get the small brass part (nipple that compresses the line flare against the 3/8 nut) that goes in the caliper threaded hole from a partshouse?

I also had in mind to get a 90degree banjo stainless steel hose and a hollow nut(like in later model calipers), just have to measure the correct length. The corvette calipers (aswell as the original JL52's also)have the "line in" hole pointing forward so that is why they originally used the Front Caliper to Hose Hard Line to get the hose attaching pointing backwards. I could do this with a 90degree banjo stainless steel hose without the brackets and hard lines, right?

Jeff H, I don't need to get exact JL8 setup so I'll try the my stock parts fitment too!


Well, anyways I will get back to this when I fit the calipers in place. Might be a while though..Just trying the get these solved before summer and major hurry!And again to anyone who has done this conversion please share your brake line/hose problems/solutions with the rest of us :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Weehaa!
I just took a closer look at my new calipers. I started to wonder if the new calipers were packed in wrong boxes, it seemed to me that if you were to position the calipers behind the spindle (like camaro style) I could not get the bleeder screw positioned at the top. I just took a look at a Corvette pictures (not a corvette guy, had to look pictures :clonk: ) and found out that in a Corvette they are mounted in front of the spindle. So I will have to swap sides when installing.
And BTW calipers are apparently threaded for a 7/16 UNF thread.

LIVE AND LEARN! :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here is an update on my JL8 project, it's not all correct/original but more to my preferences.

My curret "JL8" setup consists of:
new delco calipers with stainless sleeves from VetteBrakeProd,
Bought the caliper brackets from ebay(same guy as www.crossram.com),
Will be using my original backing plates with slight massaging of the outer lip,
bought a set of drum hubs (needed to be turned in a lathe, way too much runout),
original disc spindles,
manufactured a set of caliper/bracket support plates(the simple flat iron from the steering arm bolt to the caliper bolt, these would have cost 100$ by the way :) ),
thought about using my original hose frame brackets but not sure if the brake line fits to these,
need to get (or manufacture) a set of caliper side line brackets, originals are a bit too short for the corvette caliper,
New raybestos brutestop rotors (I still got some runout 0.001maybe, I think it's the new rotors?!?)
Hawk pads,
Original booster (maybe hydrobost in the future),
Original (-style) mastercylinder + all disc/drum valves.

Have not looked at brake hoses yet, Probably going to go with any of the stainless hoses on the market, but still not sure what to do with the caliper side: here's the problem, there is no nipple in the caliper inlet port ( it has the 7/16 treads but the small brass nippple in the bottom that the line flares against is missing) the port seems to be for the regular banjo / hollow bolt type setup.

I'll be using probably drums in the rear?. I'm also rebuilding my ford9" and have not looked at any brakes for that rear. They sell a fairly cheap disc kit for the ford 9" but I'm not sure how the piston bores size / e-brake lines will work with my original booster/e-brake cables?

Please give me your opinnions/thought about this setup. Especially if you have experience with the brake hose problem and ford rear brakes.
 

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shouldn't even be able to see .001" runout. 0.002-0.003" is acceptable.
if the runout of the hubs was measured on the car, marked, and then turned, then measured again on the car, then it's the rotors. Measure them with a runout gauge. If the hubs were just stuck on a brake lathe before measuring on the car, proclaimed to have excessive runout, and then turned, measure their runout on the car, or throw them away.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yep, it's the new brutestops rotors, the hubs have zero (0,0005) runout when measured on the car.

One funny thing also, there seems to be no balancing done to the rotors and they are cast (or how ever they are made) like crap. Serious "core shift" between the brake pad surface and the cooling fin surface. The rotor is thicker on the inboard side than on the outboard side (say, at 12 clock) and on 180 degrees opposite side (at 6 clock) its the other way round.
 

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Here is an update on my JL8 project, it's not all correct/original but more to my preferences.

My curret "JL8" setup consists of:
new delco calipers with stainless sleeves from VetteBrakeProd,
Bought the caliper brackets from ebay(same guy as www.crossram.com),
Will be using my original backing plates with slight massaging of the outer lip,
bought a set of drum hubs (needed to be turned in a lathe, way too much runout),
original disc spindles,
manufactured a set of caliper/bracket support plates(the simple flat iron from the steering arm bolt to the caliper bolt, these would have cost 100$ by the way :) ),
thought about using my original hose frame brackets but not sure if the brake line fits to these,
need to get (or manufacture) a set of caliper side line brackets, originals are a bit too short for the corvette caliper,
New raybestos brutestop rotors (I still got some runout 0.001maybe, I think it's the new rotors?!?)
Hawk pads,
Original booster (maybe hydrobost in the future),
Original (-style) mastercylinder + all disc/drum valves.

Have not looked at brake hoses yet, Probably going to go with any of the stainless hoses on the market, but still not sure what to do with the caliper side: here's the problem, there is no nipple in the caliper inlet port ( it has the 7/16 treads but the small brass nippple in the bottom that the line flares against is missing) the port seems to be for the regular banjo / hollow bolt type setup.

I'll be using probably drums in the rear?. I'm also rebuilding my ford9" and have not looked at any brakes for that rear. They sell a fairly cheap disc kit for the ford 9" but I'm not sure how the piston bores size / e-brake lines will work with my original booster/e-brake cables?

Please give me your opinnions/thought about this setup. Especially if you have experience with the brake hose problem and ford rear brakes.


I know this is a very old thread, but did you ever get the brake hose to fit your calipers? I wanted to know if you use banjo type and if so what is the lenght of the hose; I need to find some. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow!
Justa happened to open the TC-forum and my old thread was on the main page list, talk about a coincidence :beers:


Well after some thought and planning (I think I remember corretly) I went with Stainless braided hoses with regular female "3/8-24 tube" hard line ends on both ends.

These fit in original type JL8 frame and caliper brackets that I manufactured, so close to originals as possible (hard to tell the difference if you don't know it).

From the caliper bracket to caliper inlet I bouht stainless hard lines with male "3/8-24 tube" flare ends on both ends. This is the caliper J-shaped hard line as in original setup, except that both ends are 3/8-24 and its stainless. One major stainless brake line vendor had these in their catalog but cant remember which...

The fitting to the caliper inlet was a pain... had to look here and there but foung eventually adapters online that had male 7/16 threads for the caliper, and 3/8-24 female port for inverted flare tube for the J-shaped caliper hard line. These were even cosmetically almost identical to originals but naturally the inverted flare female thread size differs from JL8 originals. I used industrial strength thread sealant/locker plus copper washers between the adapter and caliper.

This was the cheapets most correct looking set that works without spending big bucks. The banjo style inlet was not an option after some thought, I came to a conclusion that it would be really hard to route the braided line to accept lock to lock wheel turn and still have it strong enough not to fail eventyally. Turning the wheels would have caused severe loads on the banjo bolt and hose end assembly.


Hope I helped you out. :hurray:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi Mark!
I remember you helped me out big time with reference pics and hints!
I will try to post pics tomorrow, front and back.

Thanks once more Mark :beers:
 

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Rodek,

Looks like you are missing the passenger side inner tie-rod adjustment sleeve clamp.

Nice brakes, I'm going to try and finish mine this spring. I have everything but the calipers, rotors and flex lines although I thought I would try the banjo style line connection like the production Corvette and JL8 development examples.
 
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