Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Mechanic says its not your typical cold piston slap and that it may be a wrist pin/piston/head issue coming from the #1 cylinder. Bottom line, gotta open her up and do surgery.

So to save myself some $$ on the repair I'm going to
1. pull the head and see what I can tell from that
2. drop the engine if necessary and have him repair it.

Anyone have any links for either of these procedures in a 2001 Camaro?
-how to
-tools required
-tips ect
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ya.. I get the basic strategy for dropping it out from the bottom.. but looking for the details, gotchyas ect.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
19,798 Posts
I'd get a few opinions before I pulled... maybe even a guy from a dealership ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,339 Posts
there is a book that a guy wrote and he dedicates a whole chapter on how to remove the engine.. they talk about it on a horsepower tv episode

let me try and find it for you, as it will probably help.. or you can just buy a haynes manual and it will tell you how to remove it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,902 Posts
to double check it yourself. disconnect spark plug wire. if noise is gone than it is a wrist pin. a few hints are wiring stays with engine coming out.except power leads and ground straps. power steering lines and heater core hoses come off. inside of car disconnect wires from computer and feed to engine.tranny and torque arm comes out. if you need axact order of stuff i got mitchell and can send it to your e mail. just pm me if you need it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
When we "unload" that cylinder with a scan tool (turn off the fuel to that cylinder) the noise goes away so we're fairly certain there's something going on there. I did have it in to the dealership a long time ago and was basically told its the old piston slap noise, I should have done more investigation then while it was still under warranty. Trying to work with them now but they say it may be too far past warranty for them to even consider working with me on it.

Thanks for the info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,902 Posts
the dealer will now tell you to pound salt. but if you had it there and have receipts for the noise. and they found nothing or it is regular noise, than maybe you have some feet to stand on. now car is 8-9 years old i dont think tho that they will do anything. but hey worth a try. if you turned cylinder off than most likely a bad wrist pin, sorry to say to you. it is a 18 hour removal and installation on motor not including taking motor apart and electrical, manifold, and all such mitchell gives you around 40 hours to remove and rebuild motor and put all back on and install. so be prepared a big job in front of you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,339 Posts
to double check it yourself. disconnect spark plug wire. if noise is gone than it is a wrist pin. a few hints are wiring stays with engine coming out.except power leads and ground straps. power steering lines and heater core hoses come off. inside of car disconnect wires from computer and feed to engine.tranny and torque arm comes out. if you need axact order of stuff i got mitchell and can send it to your e mail. just pm me if you need it.
torque arm can stay on the car, and the front brake lines need to be disconnected from the abs

front swar bar needs to come off, so does the starter from what i know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
update - removed the engine and opened it up. Found the #1 piston skirt was contacting the cylinder wall and both were scuffed up pretty good. Pretty sure this is due to incorrect clearances when it was built. The scratches aren't that deep that they will hone out. Well, some are but they are well below the the lowest point the rings will reach. So we're going to hone it out and use a new GM piston which GM has intentionally made slightly bigger or coated the skirt with polymer coating to make it larger and slicker to avoid the problem from reoccuring. I got lucky on this one, but I'll bet others did not.

GM actually updated the pistons to help with cold start knock, from what I've read most of these have a coating which makes them bigger and have less friction.

I submitted a complaint with GM and we took the piston to the dealer and they said they've battled with GM on a couple of similar cases -not sure of the result. But I'm happy with a relatively small repair cost (since I'm doing most of this myself).

Moral to the story... wring the sh*t out of your factory warranty for all its worth while you still have it. : )
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,403 Posts
That's very common I worked on Caddis for 20 years, Then they bought a Chevy dealer
VERY commom for late model GM to have piston/ring problems. Change all pistons and rings.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,632 Posts
I had luck at the dealership before. You just have to find the right guy who to talk to.The shop foreman here opened up and told me the real story about Dexcool .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I was told they would help me if I wasn't so far past the 3 year warranty (5 years). If I was only a year or two, they might consider it.

Whats the deal with dexcool? I was told it works fine as long as you don't introduce any leaks into the system, then it starts to clog things up.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,632 Posts
I had cooling problems with my 98 Suburban. Temp. spikes,thermostat sticking,intake leaks,went thru water pumps,radiators.........googled it and went to local Chevy dealer and asked.Service manager says it's great stuff.As I was walking out I passed a shop foreman's office,so I went in and asked about it. He looked around and shut the door and told me to get that crap out as he had new trucks blowing head gaskets,water pumps,intake leaks that were 6 mo.'s old.:mad: I thanked him and flushed out the Dexcool with thermostats out and heater on.I installed the Green Prestone then at 60,000 miles,Now at 173,000 Never had a minutes trouble since.I talked to a guy who owns his own shop and he told me that is the 1st. thing to go if a car comes in his shop with problems.There is even a class action lawsuit against GM.
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=dex+cool+problems&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&oq=dex+cool+problems&fp=Li-R6mbKWrc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Well, the next time I work on the car I'll be putting the engine back in. Got everything else back together today. I used a big A frame hoist to lift the front of the car up off the engine/front suspension. The 4 post lift in the shop just isn't useful for this task.

We were able to hone up the scuffed cylinder and use a new piston that was a couple hundredths bigger. Its gunna be nice not to have that damn knocking noise any longer.

PIX: http://s283.photobucket.com/albums/kk310/cdunson/01 Camaro Engine fix/?albumview=grid
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,632 Posts
Hey , I'm impressed. I heard that is a booger to do. I 've been told dealership wants over 3K for a clutch change-out on those ,don't know how true.
Good Job on your end............:thumbsup:
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top