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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 94 LT1 in my 68, but i have a lifter tick on the drivers side. I've pulled both side rocker covers, and nothing is bent, or loose. I can't seem to pinpoint which lifter is ticking though. Any method for eliminating 1 at a time?
Thanks,
Tyler

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1968 RS/SS Camaro w/ 94 vette LT-1 and T56 six speed, Cal-Tracs, Baer 12" crossdrilled brakes 17" rims, ect....
<A HREF="http://home.earthlink.net/~speedracer68/tyler.htm" TARGET=_blank>
My 68 with LT1 and T56</A>
 

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some people here will say that I am crazy but I to had a lifter tick on the driver side of my truck , then on the driver side of my 69 camaro , then on the driver side of my 67 camaro , now it is on the driver side of my new 67 camaro ???????????? this noise seem's to sound like a lifter but I have gave up on fixing it and just accept it as part of a chevy small block , I have never had anything to break or tear up , I know this wont help you but it may make you feel better .

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67 RS 327 deluxe tach gauges , camaro's rule !
 

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It may be one of your fuel injectors. They have a tendency to be noisy, also and sound like a lifter. You can run some injector cleaner thru the fuel system and see if that helps any. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I found the tick, it was #7 cylinder, exhaust lifter, is ticking. Tried tightening it, but it didn't go away. Hmmm. Now what? Should i pull the intake and replace lifters, or what?

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1968 RS/SS Camaro w/ 94 vette LT-1 and T56 six speed, Cal-Tracs, Baer 12" crossdrilled brakes 17" rims, ect....
<A HREF="http://home.earthlink.net/~speedracer68/tyler.htm" TARGET=_blank>
My 68 with LT1 and T56</A>
 

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Back in the "old days", the tried and true method was to simply drain a quart of oil from your engine, then add a quart of automatic transmission fluid. Worked most every time to quiet noisy lifters.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is that a permenent fix? Or will it show back up at my next oil change? I've never heard of that before. I'll try anything if i don't have to tear into the internals. Why would 1 lifter be noisy and all the others aren't? Did i damage something?

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1968 RS/SS Camaro w/ 94 vette LT-1 and T56 six speed, Cal-Tracs, Baer 12" crossdrilled brakes 17" rims, ect....
<A HREF="http://home.earthlink.net/~speedracer68/tyler.htm" TARGET=_blank>
My 68 with LT1 and T56</A>
 

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I would say it's a temp fix. Change the oil and it'll start clacking again... More of a bandage than a fix.

Did you reset the adjustment on the one you tightened up? Depending on how much you tightened it, you could be doing more damage if you left it!

How much mileage is on the motor? Might want to check your oil filter for metal, If the #7 exhaust lobe is going away it might explain why tightening the adjustment doesn't quite things down.

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...Dennis
The Cars:
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Teetoe,

Take the rocker arm off and check the ball to be sure it is ok, also look where the push rod goes in the rocker, and look at the tip of the push rod. If all these things check out then take a long screw driver and push on 3 or 4 valves to compare the spring pressure with the noisy one. If the spring pressure is ok, then take something to pry gently back and forth on the valve spring retainer to see if you have valve guide wear. Wear in the guide will sound like lifter noise, but so will broke valve springs.

Larry
 

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Well, it CAN be a permanent fix, or temporary, depends on WHY the lifter is "tapping". Teetoe, your lifter has 2 parts that concern you at present. One, the ball check valve. If a microscopic piece of dirt or debris gets stuck in the passageway to the ball check valve, or under the ball, it will block all oil going into the lifter, thereby preventing the lifter from pumping up fully, and you will hear a "tapping". Second is the plunger in the lifter, which can also get stuck due to dirt, debris. or a build-up of "varnish', preventing it from moving up or down, again causing a "tapping". The reason that Auto Transmission Fluid works in correcting these problems is that ATF is a fantanstic "penetrating oil". (By the way, if you are tired of paying out the wazoo for wd-40, crc, penetro 90, etc., buy a $1.oo plastic spray bottle with adjustable nozzle and fill it full of ATF. It will cut rust, free frozen bolts, etc. better than the high dollar stuff, and costs just pennies). Anyway, the ATF will circulate with your oil in the engine and "penetrate" the lifter, dissolving and removing the crud in it. Very simple, cheap, and effective. You're in a diagnostic mode right now, anyway. If after a couple of days of driving the sound is still there, then go to the more difficult steps such as Larry suggested above, since then in all likelyhood, your problem is not just a dirty, sticking valve, but rather a more serious mechanical malfunction.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the great replies guys. I removed the pushrod and rocker from the engine, and there is no abnormal wear. This car will go no where until i determine why it is ticking. In my book it ticks because there is something wrong, and i don't want to mask it so I'll feel beter about driving it. I'm going to try the ATF, and if it comes back, the intake comes off.
Thanks guys.

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1968 RS/SS Camaro w/ 94 vette LT-1 and T56 six speed, Cal-Tracs, Baer 12" crossdrilled brakes 17" rims, ect....
<A HREF="http://home.earthlink.net/~speedracer68/tyler.htm" TARGET=_blank>
My 68 with LT1 and T56</A>
 

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before you rip into that engine make sure other noise producers are not causing a problem. check that the spark plug wire boot is ON the plug and make extra certain that there is not an exhaust leak between the cylinder head and gasket or header, these sound just like a loose or ticking rocker arm. Push the boots on and tighten the header bolts.

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks. After i removed the pushrod and rocker from #7 exhaust, i restarted the engine, and the tick was gone. So i'm pretty sure it's something in that drivtrain.

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1968 RS/SS Camaro w/ 94 vette LT-1 and T56 six speed, Cal-Tracs, Baer 12" crossdrilled brakes 17" rims, ect....
<A HREF="http://home.earthlink.net/~speedracer68/tyler.htm" TARGET=_blank>
My 68 with LT1 and T56</A>
 

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Do you see oil coming out of the pushrod when the engine is running?
Take a good look at the valve spring too. Make shure it isn't broken near the bottom somewhere.
David

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67 RS 327
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How is the engine oil pressure? ATF also contains detergents.

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68SS ZZ4, 4sp T-10, 12 bolt, getting painted

78Z28, 330hp vortec, TH350, 10 bolt (just finished)
 

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The LT1 engines are know for "piston slap" and the injectors are quite noisy as well. I've got a similar noise that comes and goes depending on the temperature and the type and age of the oil. It's been there for 25K miles and doesn't seem to be a problem. It's annoying, but every small block I've ever had has had some sort of ticking noise. If you try the ATF and it helps, let us know.

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Jeff H - 93 Indy 500 Pace Car(supercharged), Hugger Orange 69 Z28 with JL8 brakes & crossram
 

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FYI. A friend of mine came to me just this morning asking what could he do to stop a clicking (lifters) of his 3.0L V6 Mazda MPV (JE engine). Of course that I said to try some ATF. He's happy now that his engine almost immediately started to run smooth and silently.

My .02

Jorge
 

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Teetoe_Jones, Did you install the lt1 engine, Or did u buy the maro with it already in? Ive been thinking of doing that but i dont know what hidden costs are. How did you do the wireing, and did you have to get a custom wire harness built?
 
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