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Discussion Starter #1
For security reasons I am interested in installing an ignition "kill switch". I understand this to be a hidden switch (toggle) between the starter and ignition that you flip when you park the car for an extended period of time. If someone tries to jump in a smash the ignition key, the car still won't start. I thought I could make it even better by putting the switch in the trunk so a key is required to access it to avoid finding it under the dash/glove box/etc.. Does anyone have any experience with this? What kind of switch is needed and which wire do you bypass on the starter/under the dash? I use a club but I still feel this is not enough. And I don't think a security system is effective or attractive.
 

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First the club is not good, they make a new one that goes between the floor and the brake pedal, much better.
As for the kill, do you have an MSD 6A igition? If using the green/purple for ignition, then the white becomes kill if grounded, if using the white for igition, the green becomes kill at ground. Thus you take the MSD apart, run new 18gauge black wire soldered properly to the white wire inside, so everything coming out is BLACK, run that thru the firewall, under the carpet to somewhere in the car and put a nice toggle switch (radio shack) that will ground the connection if on. Forget under the dash, everyone looks there, try the back of the center console, side of the rear seat, back deck!
As for stock igition, I wouldn't kill the starter, too obvious, and too easy to jump.
Do this, kill the hot lead that goes to the distributor! Just solder and route it back thru the firewall, using 12-14 gauge black, thru a slightly larger switch, then back thru to the distributor. This way the thief pops the key with a dent puller, tries to start the car pumping the gas and turning the ignition, engine turns but doesn't start, he thinks its flooded and leaves! If the starter doesn't turn he knows he just needs to pop the starter with a screwdriver, where as figuring out how to wire a new hot lead for the dist is more confusing and less likely for him to think about or figure out.
 

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I'm also looking into a kill switch. However, I think under the dash or somewhere relatively handy is the best. Car thieves sometime do surveillance for a few days first,if they see you going into your trunk every time you park they will know its in there.
 

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I am in the finishing stages of rewiring my 69 convertible with a painless kit. I have been thinking about the kill switch as well. I am going with 2 switches. one in the + wire to the coil and the second in the neutral saftey switch wire. I figure 2 switches would be better. They still have to bypass the alarm, cut the club, and get passed the pit bull in the back seat. That is if I ever let the car out of my sight! :)

Bob
 

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I think i'm going for a remote control relay on the coil and then fabricating a bracket to keep the hood locked down. Then there no kill switch to find, and if the hood is locked you cant bypass the kill switch. The remote relay looks something like this.

www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/elec/ck1609.htm

What do you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the ignition rather than starter insight. And good call on the surveilance. I am mostly worried about the car when I'm at work, and I don't think it would take long for people to know about the switch in the trunk. Also, I guess the brake petal club is better, but it is bulkier and more awkward. I like the relay idea. But I wonder if; a) it is reliable ie. what if it stops working one day b) where to mount that unit and c) do I want one more of those damn remotes on my keychain. But all in all, it makes the most sense. The bas***d can't find a switch that isn't there and this can be tucked way out of sight, maybe even under the rear seat.
 

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I great place for a switch is under the rear ashtray, accessible from the driver seat, no need to visit the trunk, just live out the ash tray and have it mounted to the side (5 minute epoxy works wonders).
Then add in the Brake Jack, smaller than the Club, works much better, and no one is stealing that car.
Third thing you can do is get a Grant Steering wheel for $130 and one of their Grant 2001 Anti-theft steering wheel removal systems for $110 and its going to be impossible for them to steal the car with no steering wheel, killed ignition, and the brake jacked. So what if it takes 1 minute to get things ready each day.
 

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It's better to put the switch in the negative coil wire to the distributor, rather than the positive. A jumper wire from the battery to + side of the coil (common practice of thives) will defeat a switch placed in the + wire.
 

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I’ve always favored a timed circuit. Some people have disagreed with the concept but I want the thief to be able to back it out of the parking space before it dies. I don’t want him appearing like he is having car trouble. Get him out in people’s way and he’ll be noticed by some P/Oed people when he is blocking them.
Concept is a timed relay operated by a switch. Sometime about 30-45 seconds cuts power to the ignition. One set of contacts acts as a latch. Latch prevents the circuit from shutting off if the key is returned to the off position. Another set of contacts closes the horn relay.
Nothing is foolproof but blocking somebody’s way with your horn going off isn’t what a thief is looking for.
 

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Any more info on the remote controlled relay? Anyone done this before? I really like the idea if it would hold up. Just stick it on the negative coil wire, or the negative to the fuel pump. The engine will turn over, but not start.
 

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down at the dealership, the parts guys were rebuilding a key switch. and there is a clip they push with the screwdriver, and the center key piece just pops right out, so i was like, so thats how you steal a car? they one guy, who lived in pittsburg for 40 years, shut me down with a no. he said in pittsburg, the best theives buy a tow truck, get some fake magnetic signs for the doors with phoney numbers, and they go and take a car like it will be going to the impound. tiltbed trucks pulling nice cars up even with the trannys locked. i havent figured out a good way to protect against that yet. lol
 

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I saw a car jacker deterent on 20/20 (or some other news magazine show) a year or two ago. It was a flame thrower that shot huge flames up both sides of the car. Kind of looked like a top fuel dragster at night. That might deter the haulers.



-dnult
 

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Discussion Starter #13
There is no doubt that if they want the car bad enough, they will get it. That's why I am not bothering with the typical security system. I decided to go with two kill switches in series, one within driver's reach, the other in trunk. For quick stops (gas stations) I'll just use the one. For longer stops (McDonald's) I'll use both. Combined with the club, it may deter the "kids" and take a bit more time to jack. Still stealable but not that easy anymore and all for $10. I am putting the rest of the money toward updating my appraisal, something we should all think about.
 

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Found this post in a search. I have a 67 camaro with an Accel coil and a Mallory dual point distributor, I know old technology
This post and others I've found only talk about hooking up to electronic ign and only 68-69 camaro's. 68 should be the same as mine but I'm not sure. I have 2 wires coming off my dist to coil both black.

Which one do I use and how do I do this. I plan on using a 15amp togg switch. If you can help e-mail me the info and let me know here that I have mail. Someone mentioned the cloth wire under dash what do I do with it. I wired my whole garage but when it comes to car wiring I'm not very exper so please be thorough. Thanks

 

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One I thought of recently is to mount a micro switch on top of the lighter assembly behind the dash. The switch arm can be made to sit inside the channel just far enough to be engaged when the lighter is in the housing. The lighter doesnt have to be pressed in, but just sitting in as normal to close the switch and complete the circuit. Who thinks of a missing lighter when getting into a car.
 

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Thanks Jethro, good ideas. Like I said I have a Accel coil and there is no pos/neg sides just 2 wires coming out of it how do I know which is neg?

I bought the parts today to do this. I got a 20amp toggle 14ga wire and AGC fuse holder and AGC 20amp fuses. OR don't I need a fuse in line? Thanks
 

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Look at the top of the Accel coil, it is sometimes hard to see on the dark insulator, but both terminals are marked pos and neg with the plus and minus sign.
 

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My coil is from the 80's. I guess they make them different now because mine has 2 wires coming out of same place. That's why I don't know how to tell them apart. I have a resistor just above the coil on f/wall, can I go off one of those wires? Or does it have to be between coil and distr?

If I find this wire I need do I just splice into it or cut it. Like I said I have the parts to do this now I just don't know how to do it.

Are you guys saying to just splice into the wire then run that just to the T switch with no fuse in line? And then the other wire from T switch just goes to a ground?

The guys at auto store said to cut the wire and put one end of T switch with in line fuse, on end of wire off coil. Then put the other T switch wire on end of wire coming off distr. Someone please let me know how to do this the best way. Thanks

[ 06-17-2004, 05:02 PM: Message edited by: RamJam ]
 
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