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Discussion starter · #61 ·
Ok, Checker auto has ordered me the Niehoff DR-305 and claims it will be here on March 03. I will let you know if it actually shows up. They said the others were unavailable.
 
Ok, Checker auto has ordered me the Niehoff DR-305 and claims it will be here on March 03. I will let you know if it actually shows up. They said the others were unavailable.
Check it with a Mityvac when you get it and see how much vacuum it takes to pull the rod all the way in; they've been known to mis-box them.

The units that fully-deploy at 8" Hg. should be stamped "B28" on the bracket, and the units that fully-deploy at 12" Hg. should be stamped "B20".

:beers:
 
Re: new cam, cars not happy under 2k
I recommend my 'Quick & Dirty' method for verifying that the cam was installed correctly. The reason being, IF the cam is installed even slightly retarded, one of the obvious indications is that the engine takes more timing to run right, and there is a lock of bottom-end power and response.
You have this, so it is worth checking it out.
You only have to remove a valve cover.
Turn the engine up to TDC, and look at #1 cylinder's valves.
If BOTH valves are closed, you need to turn the engine one more turn so that both valves are off the seat at TDC.
Check the heights of the top of the retainers to the spring seats. The intake valve should be .030" to .060" CLOSER to the head. If the exhaust valve is closer, the cam is retarded and you have to take off the front cover and install the cam correctly.
The most common problem is that you have lined up the keyway with the dot on the keyway. The correct mark is on a tooth a couple of teeth counter-clockwise from the keyway. The cam does not have to be taken out to fix this problem.


http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1421138&highlight=quick+dirty#post1421138
I checked my cam installation per UDHarold's method above. I wondered if I had a problem because the 30-30 liked so much initial timing. It checked out right in tolerance with the intake valve open .055" more than the exhaust valve.
:hurray:
 
Discussion starter · #64 ·
Update....

I went out and installed the new B28 vacumn can on the car. Well, trouble in paridise. ;) Problem I would have is the idle would be all over the place. If I would turn the idle down to 900 it would just die out. I still only get about 7" of vacumn at idleon a good day :D and If I could get it to idle right when I would touch the throttle it would go to full advance and then the idle would not come back down. if I turn the idle back down and the rpms come down to where it looses vacumn it would just stall.

I put a light back on it and it would go from 18* initial idling to over 40* in a matter of say 200 rpms. i started tring to readjust the carb and then finally just stopped. I had the car running awesome before the swap to I just pulled it back off and put the old vacumn can back on. the idle problems were gone. The vacumn can that is on there has B1 stamped on it, I have no idea what that decodes to but the car sure runs better.

Any Ideas why it didnt work like every one elses car? i even pulled some initial out of the car to try and compensate for it but it seemed like it would give full advance or nothing at all.:confused:

Thanks Again,
:beers:
 
You need 9-10 in. HG. to keep the canister deployed. It died because the vacuum dropped and so did 15 degrees of advance. I would think the vacuum would go up with the extra advance and the blades closing more. I have to admit, mine is touchy on this also. It really needs to idle at 950 - 1000 RPM to keep the cannister deployed.

Check John Z's post above. The cannisters I have before really did not deploy all the way until more than 8" and had more like 16 degrees. A guy I know gave me a stepped cam that limits the arm movement. It screws into one of the holes that mounts the cannister. I think it is made by Crane. I played with a vacuum gauge and a hose with a "T" with the cannister connected to one side and the vacuum gauge on the other. I used my mouth as a vacuum source to see where the arm stopped at 8 in.
 
Discussion starter · #67 ·
You need 9-10 in. HG. to keep the canister deployed. It died because the vacuum droppped and so did 15 degrees of advance. I would think the vacuum would go up with the extra advance and the blades closing more. I have to admit, mine is touchy on this also. It really needs to idle at 950 - 1000 RPM to keep the cannister deployed.
I hear you Gary, but I have never been able to get 9" of vacumn ever with this thing. i may still have other issues somewhere else that I just havent found yet, but with the old B1 vacumn can back on it the little car flat screems. There are no idle issues and it will sit and idle at 900 - 950 rpm all day and not miss a beat. I dont have a vacumn pump so I dont know what vacumn exactly the new B28 can was opening but it seemed like it was an all or nothing type unit.

Funny, I was tring to record the idle while I had it out today and our cars sound like twins. :D Sounds like yours is idling a touch faster than mine and hint louder but the same sweet solid lifter sound. I know you have the tri ys but what pipes / muffler are you running?
 
I have the current clip and an older clip with the chambered system. I have the standard transverse system sold by Heartbeat City. They buy the parts from IMCO. IMCO manufactures aftermarket for mufflers shops etc. HBC just cuts the tailpipes off and welds the chrome tips on if you want them.

I do get about 9.5 to 10" at idle.
 
Nothing lame about that!

Hopefully I can do a walk-around like that in a couple of weeks.
 
The vacuum can stamped "B1" is a VC-680, spec'd to start moving at 8"-11" Hg., and be fully-deployed at 16" Hg. When (rpm) does your centrifugal advance curve start, and is the vacuum can connected to a "ported" or full manifold vacuum source? Did you check the new can with a Mityvac to see if it meets spec?

:beers:
 
Discussion starter · #72 ·
John,

I am embarrassed to say I dont know when it starts to come in. I dont have a tach on my timing light and i was by myself when doing all this so I didnt have anyone to watch the tach in the car for me.

The vacumn advance is on the full vacumn port. I put a T in the line that goes to the choke diphram and hooked it up there. I just have a cap on the original ported port.

No I didnt check it as I dont have a Mityvac. It might be time to go and buy one though. The weather here has been so crappy lately that I havent had the car back out.

Thanks again for your help,
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
Jim,

I hear you and know that MSD set up would solve all my problems but I dont want to remove any original parts from the car. From past experiance (my 68 SS/RS 396) once you get started it is easy to get carried away. :yes:




Todd,

Thanks for the info. I'll bet from the way mine was acting it is exactly the same. I need to go by a mityvac so I can quit guessing at this thing.:D

Which vacumn can are you running?

Thanks Again,
:beers:
 
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