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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys, is there a way to test the low fuel warning lamp system? I am on like 1/8 tank and no light. I even tried quick starts and stops to no avail. I really don't want to find out the hard way I am dry.

I already swapped out the bulb with a known good one. The car is a 69 with factory console gauges. Does the light get it's power from the fuel gauge on the console or from the fuel sending unit in the tank?

thanks

alan
 

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Pull the tan sender wire off its connector in the trunk, and ground it. That will cause the gauge to read empty and your low fuel light should turn on.

But if your at an 1/8 and it doesn't flicker on and off on sharp turns or braking it probably doesn't work.
 

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Mine flickers when around 1/8 after braking. The bulb in my car has pos power all the time until the capsule in the console gives it a ground when tank is low. Like above, grd wire from tank and light will come on. When i was checking i used a tall jack and raised and lowered car to make sure light would work on and off at initial setup. In my car the bulb socket is isolated from the dash circuit board and had 2 wires from bulb socket. One going to pos battery side and other to grd circuit in console. For an old car this is paramount for driving alot.
 

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I didn't know my car had the low-fuel warning untill i replaced my gas tank and turned the ign on. I only had a gallon of gas in my gas can, so i dumped it in and it was just enough to turn the light off!
Now i know that if the light comes on, i better be very close to a gas station!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I am pretty sure I found the connector in the trunk where the fuel signal wire hooks into the wiring loom. What I noticed is that it is part of a double connector that also feeds the license plate light. Inasmuch as it appears the two wires can be removed individually from the double body connector(upsteam side), I couldn't help but wonder what would happen if you mixed up the two wires, connecting the downstream wire to the fuel sender to the wire which delivers 12V to the license plate light. Wouldn't that make for a spectacular event the next time you turned on the lights?

alan
 

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I've never heard of a spectacular event happeing, but I suppose it's possible.

I believe the individual connectors are keyed, so they only fit in the right hole (unless the factory connector bodies are gone)

If you did manage to reverse them, your fuel gauge would do real odd things, and the fuel sender could burn up inside the gas tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've never heard of a spectacular event happeing, but I suppose it's possible.

I believe the individual connectors are keyed, so they only fit in the right hole (unless the factory connector bodies are gone)

If you did manage to reverse them, your fuel gauge would do real odd things, and the fuel sender could burn up inside the gas tank.
I think the part "fuel sender burning up in the tank" is where it might get interesting.

It is entirely possible that from the factory, the plugs are indexed just to prevent that and that somewhere along it's journey, mine got swapped out. I will be color coding them tonight.

alan
 

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Alan,

If your gas gauge works and you know the bulb is good it most likely a bad module. I had to replace the module on my car to get it to work right after I bought it years ago.
I hope this helps,
:beers:
 
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