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Discussion Starter #1
Do lowering springs (leaf & coil) firm up or soften the suspension feel (ride comfort) over stock?

Or is it the same

Looking to do a 2" drop front & rear
 

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Generally stiffer so the suspension will not bottom out.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was not looking for a stiffer ride....While the ride now with original rear springs and replacement springs along with Edelbrock shocks that were installed by PO is fairly stiff now...but for a 51 year old car it is to be expected

I would like to narrow the distance of the fender gaps above the tires

The only "progressive" lowering springs I found are these
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/art-11162351/overview/year/1967/make/chevrolet/model/camaro

Not sure if they would be more forgiving than a non progressive spring

Considering these for the rear

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-7081gm-2k/overview/year/1967/make/chevrolet/model/camaro
 

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use a 6 cylinder car springs can't remember the # maybe Moog 6308 thats what i have in mine and the car rides nice
 

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Use the Ridetech front springs and their shocks. For the rear use lowering blocks to get the ride height you want with your current springs. Use Ridetech shocks in the rear too.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The only lowering blocks I am seeing are these (Speedway), are these the ones to use or are there other options?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop...983-1967-47-432-10191-1-949-4712-16-314-31217

The U bolts don't look like the fit through the perch and shock (bottom) plate

Can the stock bolts be knocked out and just use longer bolts vs the "U" bolts?

or are those bolts welded to top perch?

Is the stock centering pin 9/16"?

Does the length of rear shock need to be changed or will stock size fit using the 2" block?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
On my top perch that is attached to axle housing the bolts that secure the bottom plate (shock mount) don't have heads on them. They would appear to be pressed in the perch as I just used a socket/ratchet to remove the bottom nuts to remove the lower plate without the bolts moving at all. The "bolts" remained in the top perch plate.

Also the holes for those bolts, assuming the bolts can be knocked out, are wider spaced than what a U bolt over axle would line up with. I would have to drill holes in upper perch and bottom plate to use U bolts

I will look again but I just installed sub frame connectors and had the lower plate off when dropping the leaf spring and the spacing of the holes is wider than the width of axle housing tube

My thought is if the bolts can be knocked out I would just get 2" longer ones and sandwich the spacer between the perch/leaf spring/bottom plate

Am I seeing all this right or??

I would also keep the rubber on both sides of the leaf spring
 

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U bolts would be better when using lower blocks imho.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
U bolts would be better when using lower blocks imho.

Don
EDIT:, Apologies for not measuring before posting.

The bolt spacing (center/center) is 3 1/2". Pin is 9/16"

This kit should be plug & play

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Universal-Leaf-Spring-Lowering-Block-Kit-2-Inch,35756.html

Currently the bolts that hold the perch and shock mount plate together are "oval flat head" and I assume pressed in. Will a BFH knock those out?

Given I have a huge 4" gap between wheel opening and tire I may go 3" but am concerned about pinion angle getting to far off. Would I need to add a shim(s) under tranny mount?

Comments on that appreciated
 

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T-bolt should knock right out with a BFH and maybe a punch. I opened up the holes to 1/2" with a cordless drill, not that hard.

U-bolts will be a MUST using lowering blocks !

Tire size will also help close the gap ;)
 

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I don’t recall those bolts being pressed in but it’s been a while since I messed with any.

Three inches is a big block. I would go 2 inches max with blocks. Just my two cents....

You can adjust your diff pinion angle with shims if needed.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I don’t recall those bolts being pressed in but it’s been a while since I messed with any.

Three inches is a big block. I would go 2 inches max with blocks. Just my two cents....

You can adjust your diff pinion angle with shims if needed.

Don
Yeah you are the 2nd person who said don't go 3". That person said 3" block + suspension travel will have DL angle to far off.

If I do need shims with the 2"...the angled ones you add to the lowering block or shims under tranny mount?

If the angled ones for lowering block, the thin edge faces forward?

On the stock flat oval head bolts if they are not pressed in than they were just likely stuck from being there for 51 years. I used a impact gun to remove the nuts which easily came off but the bolts themselves did not move. I will give them a tap with hammer when I do this swap.
 

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Those T-bolts just tap out unless they are corroded some in which a bfh will do the trick. U-bolts for sure like Doug said the holes in the perch are easily opened up for larger diameter u-bolts.

Me personally would steer away from anything more than a 1" lowering block. They also add leverage that can introduce wicked spring wrap. I'm in the process of switching over to Flex Form composite mono leaf for the rear. I'm going with 235# low arch springs and hope that allows me the get rid of the 1" lowering blocks I currently have.

A firm ride is not a bad ride. I've had relatively soft leaves with crap shocks that rode aweful. Put some Koni Classics in there and the ride was so much better. Went with firm springs and the same Koni shocks and the ride was even better.

These composite mono's I hear give a better ride than steel leaves and save a bunch of weight so I'm giving them a whirl soon.
 

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I installed SB springs in the front of my BB 69 and 1.5 lowering blocks with 4 new u bolts from Summit along with new rubber pads and stock multi springs and Gabriel HD gas shocks. Result in a good ride and 2" drop . I have 17x8 Foose wheels all around.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
For a 2" drop using 2" blocks in the rear and 2" lowering coil springs up front, do you need to use shorter shocks front and or rear?

In looking at the rear my assumption is the lower shock plate stays where it was as the axle housing is lifted so shock length would remain the same.
 
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